MOJOJOY

5 speed install! Driveshaft dilema....

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Just installed a 245 speed using @BLUNT kit! It all went in as it should! Car is an October 67 1800 for future reference. 

Car has the small tranny with a side loader diff and guibo at the rear. Also a 6 bolt crank.

 

So now i need to make a driveshaft for the conversion and need input. The nk guibos are $250 from Bmw, cheaper at BTSAutoteile. 

Hence the guibo it’s at the rear the U-joint its a the front. So what are my options here before I sent driveshaft to be cut. 

- leave driveshaft as is (U-joint/tranny-guibo/diff) make a solid adapter at the tranny. 

- make an adapter at the rear using an e21 driveshaft like @mich02 (see pics) did and run a guibo at the tranny! 

Any thoughts on this? 

 

 

AA6138F1-6EB4-422C-AA08-B01D35E08135.jpeg

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Or can you simply swap the front differential flange? This way I can use a common 4 bolt 02 u joint! 

 

2DE09452-82CF-4906-B5E6-DDCDE3257DCD.jpeg

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Thanks for sharing all the swap info and updates! Not sure if this helps, our 69 NK auto has the four bolt flange, pictured in the blue crate, guibo up front at trans.

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On Joseph Oneil’s 2000TiLux with a longneck we shortened the shift linkage in the traditional way, installed the trans with a Rob Torres U shaped crossmember that bolts to the original 4-speed tunnel mounting ears. For the driveshaft, that car had a big NK guibo at the longneck. I knew late 2002 longnecks had a u-joint style flange and Torres supplied one for the project so that we could attempt to install a more modern driveshaft with a “624” guibo at the trans, an adjustable sliding section and u-joint in the middle and a u-joint at the diff. But, we found the late longneck input flange wasn’t the same size as the later “normal” flange. To make that work the way we needed, we took careful measurements and had a local race car fabricator modify the flange to accept the “normal” u-joint flange style driveshaft. So... I don’t recall if we had to modify it much, but we used an E30 driveshaft.

 

Now for your sideloader... Since the sideloader has a crush sleeve in the pinion bearing setup, you need to mark all three pieces before you take the flange off the diff... The nut, the flange and the pinion need to be marked so they can be put back together in the same way AND the nut torqued to the same spot. Since you’re swapping the flange, you’ll just have to keep your fingers crossed that the new flange is the exact same thickness as the old one. I usually torque the nut down to just a thin hair tighter than the marks. I would replace the pinion seal at the same time.

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If you change the input flange on the side loader to a 4 bolt and you're happy to weld up a bracket for a centre support bearing then you can easily DIY mod a 4 speed e21 drive shaft. It's about 1cm too long (or at least it was in my car), so I split the prop (taking care to mark it so it could go back together with the same orientation and maintain the factory balance) then cut 1cm off the both the female and male ends so it would slide together 1cm more. 

 

I have driven the pants off this car over thousands of kms and it's bullet proof. 

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@NickVyse do you think the flanges are interchangeable? I’m waiting on a thin walled 30mm socket so I can take the flange apart. Yes driveshaft will be cut, sized and balanced by a local shop.  

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10 minutes ago, MOJOJOY said:

@NickVyse do you think the flanges are interchangeable? I’m waiting on a thin walled 30mm socket so I can take the flange apart. Yes driveshaft will be cut, sized and balanced by a local shop.  

 

I don't know. The way I cut it requires no welding or balancing (impossible to find anyone here to do it, would have to send it back to the UK)

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the main reason that i used the steel converting disc is that I still use the original long neck diff. That has a 3 flange that i could not change to 4 bould, or didnt know how.  As you're using a side loader, i would try to change to a 4 bolt. And let me know of it work, i have to do this on the my 2000cs as well. 

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24 minutes ago, mich02 said:

the main reason that i used the steel converting disc is that I still use the original long neck diff. That has a 3 flange that i could not change to 4 bould, or didnt know how.  As you're using a side loader, i would try to change to a 4 bolt. And let me know of it work, i have to do this on the my 2000cs as well. 

 

Probably easier and cheeper just to swap to a later side loader with a 4 bolt flange already installed. 

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Ended up using the 3:64 sideloader with the 4 bolt flange. Just swapped the output flanges to the early ones. Still looking to take the snout 3 hole flange out and see if it’s the same as a late sideloader. Just need to find soon another sideloader to experiment with. 

Might not like the 3:64 on the 1800. Really wanted to keep the 4:11 with the 5 speed but I’ll try the 3:64 1st and see how it goes! 

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