Jimmy

Another stupid 32/36 + 123Tune thread

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(edited)

UPDATE:

 I attached the timing light and ran the car until it stalled. The timing light went dark long before the motor stopped spinning. I identifed a wiring issue at the coil and all is well, as can be for now. I'll post back here if I run into more trouble with setup.

 

My car has run too rich at idle the entire time I've owned it.

 

The 32/36 DGAV was on the car when I got it but is pretty new. (Redline model if that matters) and the stock push/pull dizzy seemed ok but I got a deal on the 123 and everyone raves about them so I figured why not chase the elusive magic setup that allows enough initial timing to keep these carbs from idling on the primaries.

 

Other than the carb and dizzy, the motor is stock as far as I can tell. The configuration retains the diverter valve gizmo that sends excess fuel back to the tank.

 

I put new NGK BP6ES/7333 (FYI the latter number is the one most FLAPS use so ask for 7333 when they tell you they don't have BP6ES) and it ran better immediately. 

 

For the moment, the 123 has the stock tii curve (I know it sucks for carbed cars, I had to use something, it won't stay that way) and a flat zero vacuum advance map. These are strictly for the purposes of initial setup. I haven't driven the car since installing the 123. I know tuning is iterative and I'm just starting out with this car.

 

At idle the exhaust is eye-watering, so I tackled that as soon as I put the new plugs in as not to foul them immediately. The car seems to idle best* with the mixture screw about 4.5 turns out (!!!) with almost no help from the idle speed screw. From reading, it sounds like the idle jet is too small. Or maybe the whole thing is a mess. I don't know yet.

 

*Here's the trouble right now: 

Since arriving at the current settings on the carb, it will idle fine for a minute or so and then suddenly completely die, is if someone shut the key off. It restarts immediately, but will then die again after idling smoothly for 10 or 15 seconds. There's plenty of fuel in the tank and in the filter. When it restarts it starts immediately without long cranking, and it revs up just fine.

 

Does any of this behavior sound like a specific known issue? If I didn't have history with this car I would suspect fuel filter, fuel pump, or float level. I'm having trouble reconciling how the car could be slowly/intermittently starving for fuel at idle. I haven't tried starting and holding it at 2000rpm or something to see if it stays running or if it dies. Maybe I should, but it seems less relevant.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Jimmy
Update

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Just a dumb thought but the +123 has a security setting in the app that disables the dizzy if it doesn’t connect with the app. Default settings have this disabled but maybe you turned it on inadvertently or prior to you purchasing it?

 

Im assuming you have the Bluetooth version? That’s all I can come up with. 

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I was told by 123 that if the anti-theft ignition kill is turned on, it will indeed allow a few hundred ignition cycles to happen before shutting down. It's not a full 'off'. It could be your case.

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12 minutes ago, 2002Scoob said:

I was told by 123 that if the anti-theft ignition kill is turned on, it will indeed allow a few hundred ignition cycles to happen before shutting down. It's not a full 'off'. It could be your case.

 

It's the USB version. I've had enough fidgety bluetooth stuff that I didn't want to fight with it in addition to fighting with my car. Not that I haven't also had wonky USB stuff and wonky Windows issues. The "unhandled exception" errors are a real treat. USB users know what I'm talking about.

 

I found that following the instructions included with the 123 to be an impediment to actually getting it going, particularly with respect to the green light.

 

I would revise them to this:

 

1) Do physical, electrical, and software installation as per 123 instructions.

 

2) Configure and load primary tune using known "good" safe tune eg tii map.

 

3) Locate BB on flywheel. Clean it, mark it, whatever you gotta do to see it with a timing light.

 

4)Set a point on the 123 tune map to 25 degrees at known RPM (eg 2000)

 

5) Slightly retard distributor (turn clockwise), crank engine (maybe with a buddy) slowly turning the distributor counter-clockwise until the car starts and stays running on its own.

 

6) point a normal non-fancy generic timing light (or a fancy one set to zero) at the hole in the bellhousing and adjust the distributor until the BB is visible at the RPM determined in step 4.

 

7) Tighten distributor clamp and tune away.

 

 

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