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Many issues and Newby.


ddletendre

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Working on my 1976 2002.

 

This nut (see pictures below) came flying out of no where in my driveway when trying to start the car this morning. 

found out where it came from (see second picture), but I don't know if it could mean something more than simply torquing it back in there. (By the way, can't figure out the torque specs). IMG_1520.thumb.JPG.808c22eba7ee406dd1bf75d6dcf4c016.JPGIMG_1518.thumb.JPG.5edddf854d1af4ae395ae71c6e10700c.JPG

 

I have also many issues regarding my Holley carb (I think it's a 5200). Looking to change. Should I go for a Weber 32/36 or something like an ITB and invest a lot more?

 

Thanks for the advice, 

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Is the Holley carb you mention a Holley Weber as used on Pintos?  If so it's close enough to the "real" Weber that the jets are interchangeable, so it just may need jetting. 

 

If it's something different, you need to find out what car it came from.  If it's jetted for a larger (or smaller) displacement engine, than you'll need to re-jet for it to work properly.

 

mike

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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8 minutes ago, mike said:

Is the Holley carb you mention a Holley Weber as used on Pintos?  If so it's close enough to the "real" Weber that the jets are interchangeable, so it just may need jetting. 

 

If it's something different, you need to find out what car it came from.  If it's jetted for a larger (or smaller) displacement engine, than you'll need to re-jet for it to work properly.

 

mike

 

This is what it looks like. I have very low knowledge in carburaters.

F50C8BF6-4611-46F3-8097-7E74214D8C0A.thumb.jpeg.c5d5ddee2e4fb6899b4471bdb0bd0254.jpeg

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11 minutes ago, ddletendre said:

Maybe i can get it with a universal joint or something.

 

No.  Sorry.  You need to get a 30mm socket and a big torque wrench in there.  Rad's comin' out.  

 

I don't think I'd be driving the car without that nut secure.  Two reasons: 1) pulley may get loose, 2) the nut is an integral part of the crankshaft and keeps everything tight (fore and aft) in the block.   I could be wrong about point2, but it seems like a fair assumption.

Edited by PaulTWinterton
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73 Inka Tii #2762958

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6 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

No.  Sorry.  You need to get a 30mm socket and a big torque wrench in there.  Rad's comin' out.  

 

I don't think I'd be driving the car without that nut secure.  Two reasons: 1) pulley may get loose, 2) the nut is an integral part of the crankshaft and keeps everything tight (fore and aft) in the block.   I could be wrong about point2, but it seems like a fair assumption.

Will not take the risk. Thanks for the advice guys! Feeling pretty lucky it didnt fallout on the highway or something. Could have been worse!

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Yeah I'd get a new nut part# 07119921565 and wave washer part# 7119932183, their cheap under a buck each, clean the threads on the end of the crank and use blue locktite  but before you do grab the pulley and twist it to see if there is any play between it and the crank it should be tight even with out the nut if there is play you'll have to pull the pulley and check the woodruf key and slot for wear. 

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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On 9/30/2018 at 8:26 PM, Son of Marty said:

Yeah I'd get a new nut part# 07119921565 and wave washer part# 7119932183, their cheap under a buck each, clean the threads on the end of the crank and use blue locktite  but before you do grab the pulley and twist it to see if there is any play between it and the crank it should be tight even with out the nut if there is play you'll have to pull the pulley and check the woodruf key and slot for wear. 

 

I usually buy parts from RockAuto, but I can't seem to find these there. These part # are from which supplier?

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