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Need opinions...'74 tii


Wexler

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Hello!  Long time lurker, might just finally have found the one.  I have a somewhat familiar understanding of what things should look like, but was hoping folks could chime in if they see anything "off".

 

Private party seller, good guy, but distance does not allow for me to simply run over and see it.

 

Respray is about 25 years old.  I've asked that the original wheels go back on the car.

 

Thanks!

 

 

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27 minutes ago, joysterm said:

You may want to add a few more pics to help in the assessment but at first jump it looks solid. The snorkel maybe a sticking point but I will yield to the Tii aficionados out there.

 

Good luck with it  

Thanks, all for the quick responses.  Car is positioned as a "driver" and not a show car...which is my intention - to drive it.

 

What is the general debate / issue with the snorkel? 

 

Is that the hole to the upper right of the radiator?  

 

Thanks!

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wow, is that dash crack-free?  if so, that's definitely worth bonus points

Bob

BMWCCA #4844 (#297 of The 308)

1974 2002 Sahara, MM 2400 Rally engine, MM 5 speed and conversion

1976 2002A Anthracite parts car

1991 525i AlpinweiB II

2002 330ci AlpinweiB III

2007 530xiT Titanium Silver

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8 minutes ago, Wexler said:

What is the general debate / issue with the snorkel? 

 

Some say the snorkel on a Tii indicates that the nose section has been replaced.

Others say some came off the line with a snorkel nose.

(The snorkel fitting is for the intake on a carbureted engine).

 

Replacement could have been due to an accident, or possibly rust.

 

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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The seam at the top of the fenders, where the wide lip sits on top can be a give away.  They have a certain look to them from the factory.


Also, the factory primer is a light gray, whereas the replacement panels are black, as delivered.

 

My car has had a nose replacement and the paint did not stick that well in some areas.  It is very clearly black underneath.  They also put filler over the top fender seam.  The vertical seam on the front should be filled at the top (above the grilles) and show at the bottom as a butt joint; if it is original... or done 'correctly'.

 

Is the silver color slightly lighter in the nose section, or is that just the lighting?  Seems a little less yellowed.

 

edit: the yellowing may be due to 'fumes' under the hood, which may not affect the area up front... possibly.

 

New nose is less likely to be/get rusty!  (that is how I cheer myself up about mine).

 

I wouldn't let that stop me... looks like a nice example so far.

Unmolested under the hood, at first glance.

Edited by '76mintgrün'02

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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Polaris factory paint started failing driving off the lot, and turns yellow in engine bay, door jambs, under hood and deck lid. Looks like the respray just didn't include the engine bay, except for the nose panel because that should have yellowed too, unless they painted or replaced.  Is that a rusted weld just in front of the bolt for bumper mount on subframe, don't think it should be there.  Just looks like the owner takes really good care of it by first glance.  Is that an open bag of charcoal on the passenger side and comes with the car? If so go for it.  Get VIN# 278xxx, and based on gray strut caps, built in early 74'. Am I sounding like Conserv Steve now!

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Steve, you're a good sub!! All Polaris cars have at least some yellowing under the hood. Personally, I like it. It's kind of like a time stamp for me.

Wexler, ask for pics of the nose, particularly the brazed seams where the fenders and nose meet. I would guess more 2002's have had nose repair than not by now. 

 What part of the country is this car located? Looks like a quality driver from the pics.

 

  Bob

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71 2002

85 M635

89 327is

98 M3

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I’m a total nut, and I would never let a snorkel on the radiator support stop me from buying a tii. And I do mean that. Why?

 

1.) I believe that more than half of all nosepieces have been replaced over the last 45 years. My ‘76 got a new nosepiece after I misbehaved in 1978: The car needed a right fender, nosepiece, and grille, but neither a hood nor bumper. But replacing a damaged nosepiece was both cheaper and more likely to produce a good repair — the nosepiece are both fragile and have compound curves — than straightening the original nosepiece. Oh, yeah, I was able to afford my first, ‘02, the ‘70, in 1973 because....you guessed it, it needed a new nosepiece (and hood) and OEM nosepieces were back ordered for months. The car had 20K+ miles, and was mint other than the front end damage, so the original owner wanted new parts. He grew tired of waiting and I struck a deal with him. I found a good used nosepiece on a totaled ‘68.

 

2.) Fast forward to getting estimates for my ‘76’s Big Repaint in 2015. Neither of two great body shops could detect the replaced nosepiece and right fender. I had to tell them the nosepiece and fender were replacements because both shops wanted to bend over backwards to avoid replacing my rusty right fender, under the assumption that every panel was original. So if you really believe you can identify an original nosepiece, particularly when a repair was well done and done 40 years ago — which is precisely when so many of us were running into things with our ‘02’s — you’ve gotta believe your detection skills are much better than those of good bodyshop guys.

 

3.) My ‘73 tii has had the nosepiece replaced, but got a tii replacement nosepiece. It was well done, but post-dated, or was contemporary to my Inka tii being painted Malaga. Thus, I can tell it was replaced because it doesn’t have Inka paint under the Malaga. If that replacement tii nosepiece had been installed 40 years ago, and painted Inka, no one would ever suspect the nosepiece was replaced. If you believe your tii’s snorkel-free nosepiece is original to the car, you might have a 50% chance of being right! ?

 

4.) When 2nd and subsequent owners — who all believe they know the “complete history” of their cars — tell me their car has, of course, never been hit, I smile. I know how we drove these cars in the ‘70’s. Mishaps happened all the time — and this ignores the common shipping damage that occurred before the car was even delivered. These were not accidents that totaled the cars, but they dented fenders, doors, quarter panels, bumpers, etc. If we could find out how many replacement doors, fenders, hoods, and, yes, nosepieces, BMW sold from 1966 until 1980, we’d probably all be in shock. The number of these cars totaled by accidents should suggest the histories of the survivors. I totaled my ‘70 (first photo below), I bought and parted a totaled ‘72 tii in 1974, and I bought and parted a totaled ‘74 2002A in 1975 (second photo below). ?

 

5.) Getting rid of a snorkel, when you’re repainting a tii, is easy! I would absolutely do it, if I had a tii with a snorkel.

 

The example you’re looking at looks very un-molested! The presence of the orange diagnostic plug cap on the valve cover suggests a very original car to me. Unless it’s got serious rust issues underneath, grab it!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Conserv
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1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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