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Hard getting into gear


backeis

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All three, you mean?

Common practice is to replace the master and slave together.

 

Pedal boxes come up in the parts for sale section.

A post in the parts wanted section might help find one.

 

Blunttech is a fun place to buy parts, or you can google around to try to save a buck or two.

 

You do have a brake leak as well, so if you can find that before ordering clutch parts, you might save a couple of bucks on shipping, by combining the order.

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     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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4 minutes ago, backeis said:

Just reiterating though what might be a dump question: how could the clutch drain my reservoir to below the clutch feeder line?

It can't.  That is why we know you have a leak in the brake system as well.

  • Like 2

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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Another option is that the connection at the bottom of the reservoir is split and fluid is running down the outside of the supply hose and the dripping off the clutch master.

 

Whichever way it is, I would be spooked enough that I would want to rebuild my brake master, pedal box and all of the clutch hydraulics now. 

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rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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More findings, and I'm now pretty confident that at the very least there's a leak at the break master cylinder. It's wet and dripping down from that onto the steering linkage:

 

Untitled.thumb.png.521fe68884eaaa0e19966098bb7af80d.png

 

Will put the car up on jacks in the next couple of weeks, take wheels off, and unless I find a loose screw or leaking hydraulics line somewhere, I'll rip out brake, clutch master and clutch slave cylinders.

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The master cylinder has two shaft seals on the booster end.  The inner seal is most likely leaking.

On the bottom of the master cylinder near the booster end, there is a leak-off hole that is supposed to let the fluid drip out when the inner seal leaks.  Look with a mirror to see the hole.  The outer seal is supposed to keep the fluid from being pushed into the booster.  A lot of times the leak-off hole gets corroded closed then brake fluid is pushed into the booster.  You are lucky that it is coming out the hole.  But the brake fluid will eat off the paint where it drips onto.

Looks like some master cylinder work is due.

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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The red circle and arrow are pointing to the clutch master, which we've seen drippy photos of already...

Are there drips on the brake master too, or was that a slip of the keys?

 

The fluid level dropping as low as it has proves there's a leak in the brake system, but I'd confirm that the ma$ter is the problem, before spending money on a new one. 

 

It is really not that hard to inspect the inside of the booster.  Easier than replacing the master.

 

Or, maybe the brake master is dripping as well as the circled clutch master.  (?)


Tom

  • Like 1

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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Oh, misidentified by me then. The brake master is attached to the brake booster, right? Higher up in the bay.

Yeah I'll definitely check for fluids inside booster first, as well as all screws and lines, before ordering new parts.

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yes, the brake master can be seen in the upper right corner of your last photo.

 

I'd suggest rereading this entire thread.  Maybe a couple of times.  Sometimes stuff makes more sense after multiple readings.

  • Like 2

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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