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No power on hills, blue smoke, jerky engine - all timing related?


backeis

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^^^^ Minty 

6 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

I can (and often do) recommend the Innova 5568.

($100 to your door, last I looked)

 

((now we are getting somewhere!))

 

+1. Thats what I use. 

 

Side-note. Even when you do get everything sorted and decided to upgrade your ignition to a 123, you're gunna want that timing light. The 'little green light' method for setting the 123 from my experience can be 1-3 degrees off, and the only way to get it spot on is with an actual light. 

 

Good luck!

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Or, if you get bored with the Pertronix and decide to go back to points/condenser, the 5568 has a dwell meter built in.  :) 

 

The tachometer is a useful function too; as is the volt meter.

 

I wrapped the wires that go to the spark plug and coil negative with this stuff, to help keep them under control and off of the exhaust.  The melting plastic gives you a little warning, before burning the wires themselves.

Image result for plastic wire wrap black

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     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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Change the oil and filter sooner than later... Especially after all the detergent usage.  

 

One piece of advice recently given to me from a west coast engine builder of some reputation... The engine in my 2000CS had a fair amount of black sludge built up in the valvetrain (meaning everywhere in the engine).  Instead of the above mentioned treatments, he said to "got to Walmart and buy the cheapest 20w-50 oil and change it every 500 miles 2-3 times"  Reasoning was the detergents in new oil break down rather quickly, so simply change it, run it hard, change it, run it hard... rinse and repeat.  Always change the filter during this exercise as it will accumulate all that debris.

 

FWIW...

 

Ed

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'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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Don't sweat the money spent on these small things... it's all part of owning a vintage vehicle.  I might also caution that if you go to an oil treatment that is high viscosity (STP, or any of the engine "honeys") the extra viscosity will slow down any leaks or blow-by, but can cause high oil pressures that can put stress on old seals.  It is not uncommon for a cheap oil filter seal to fail and spew oil all over the engine.  An oil filter is easy to change.. a rear main?  Not so easy...  So go easy on warm-up, especially in winter.  Keep it below 3000rpms until plenty warm.

 

 

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'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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O'Reilly's currently has VR20W-50 on sale in the 5 quart jug.

 

That hotter plug could help burn off that oil blow-by.  (5 is hotter than 6 for an NGK plug) and don't buy plugs with an R in the designation, those will be resistorized and not typically what you need.

 

Ed

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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On 9/10/2018 at 8:25 AM, zinz said:

Change the oil and filter sooner than later... Especially after all the detergent usage.  

 

One piece of advice recently given to me from a west coast engine builder of some reputation... The engine in my 2000CS had a fair amount of black sludge built up in the valvetrain (meaning everywhere in the engine).  Instead of the above mentioned treatments, he said to "got to Walmart and buy the cheapest 20w-50 oil and change it every 500 miles 2-3 times"  Reasoning was the detergents in new oil break down rather quickly, so simply change it, run it hard, change it, run it hard... rinse and repeat.  Always change the filter during this exercise as it will accumulate all that debris.

 

Frequent oil and filter changes is good advice.  BUT, it may not be the most effective means of resolving a preexisting sludge problem.  A "fair amount of black sludge," as you describe it, does not provide any meaningful assessment of the problem.  A millimeter of sludge or gravy is one thing.  However, if an engine has accumulated 10 millimeters of overcooked sedimentary tofu on it's oil pan floor - and other horizontal surfaces - it will take far more than 2 or 3 oil changes and a splash of  Marvel Mystery dressing to loosen and remove it.  It is obviously a judgment call, but a pinky rule might be appropriate.  After draining oil as part of a normal oil change, if you can detect a significant amount (+~3mm) of solid or semi-solid residuum by probing with a finger or suitable digit through the drain hole, you might consider removing the pan to mechanically clean it, rather than using a 20W50 low sudsing baby shampoo.  This presupposes that the majority of the dark egg salad is in the sump.

 

On a neglected barn find of unknown history, when the oil was changed with the recommended fill, the dipstick indicated a significant overfill.  The sump was removed, revealing a treasure of silvery sediment, thick enough to partially envelope the oil pump intake and cause the aberrant dipstick reading.  While chemicals and heat might have permitted sufficient oil flow to allow for engine operation, that remedy seemed short sighted.  Hello hot tank.

 

 

 

Black sludge142708d1501888222-my-5-3-6-0-swap-c41e81

 

Brown sludge

sludge+oilpan.jpg

 

Aged oxblood with a hint of saffron sludge?

173.jpg

 

But .  .  .  maybe the pan was spotless?

GL350-3866.jpg

Edited by percy
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Lovely photos... truly a mechanic's nightmare.  "uhhhhhh... my check-engine light is on and there's a clanking noise under the hood"

 

The above is not the case for my 2000CS, by any means.... the buildup is only a mm thick, but signs to me that the PO didn't do his best maintenance in the short mileage the engine has on it.  Two BMW engine gurus have looked it over, I'm good.

 

Ed

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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3 hours ago, zinz said:

The above is not the case for my 2000CS, by any means.... the buildup is only a mm thick, but signs to me that the PO didn't do his best maintenance in the short mileage the engine has on it.  Two BMW engine gurus have looked it over, I'm good.

Did not mean to cast any shadows on your particular engine or your consultants.  PaulW might say that an old internal combustion engine - is like a box of chocolates left under a picnic table on a hot day.  You never know what you might find unless you unwrap and taste the box contents.  MMMmmmm.

 

Obviously, YMMV - and you cannot always judge a whole car by it's polished valve cover. ?

Edited by percy
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before you rush out to remove the oil pan, know you will need to disconnect the motor from the mounts and lift it up. I recently was going to replace the oil pan gasket, but thankfully did a quick search here before removing the 24+ bolts holding it on. I'll add it to the list for spring when I pull the motor to replace some seals and motor mounts.

Edited by joebarthlow
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1974 BMW 2002 (Polaris > Sienabraun)

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