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Tii Crankshaft Hub Questions/Advice Please.


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I'm curious to know if this hub is dead, still good, or needs machining.  I tried polishing-out the groove, but it's still there.  Measures .04mm deep.  If I have it machined out, will the seal still work?  

 

Is there a generic substitute for the front crankshaft seal?  SKF brand? FAG brand?  If there is they would have the allowable tolerances for the hub, I presume.

Hub_XCU.jpg.86d4dffc1afa9bcae6729f3d19cc2814.jpg

73 Inka Tii #2762958

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Did it leak before?

 

That's not a terrible groove. 

Options are to try it as- is,

try a double- lipped seal,

try a deeper seal,

try a shallower seal

try a shim behind the seal,

try a Speedi- Sleeve,

go nuts and machine it down and

have it properly sleeved,

put the seal in backwards (saw that done once, it sorta worked- much much worse groove than you have)

and of course, the old, tried and true,

JB weld it up and sand it down with emery boards.

 

t

 

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I have seen multiple grooves on cranks that makes me think that each seal/fitment is slightly different and seats in a different place... you could encourage this by using an extra thick front cover gasket so that an originally-positioned seal runs on fresh metal...or fit the seal slightly deeper/shallower in the front cover...

'59 Morris Minor, '67 Triumph TR4A, '68 Silver Shadow, '72 2002tii, '73 Jaguar E-Type,

'73 2002tii w/Alpina mods , '74 2002turbo, '85 Alfa Spider, '03 Lotus Elise

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Just don't put the seal in backwards...  Good god Toby!  ?  (I was looking for a laughing, shaking head, drinking beer emoji but couldn't find one, so elephant.)

  • Haha 1

Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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I would use it as you show in the nice picture. Just make sure to lubricate the ID of the seal with a little grease. 

 

Edit- not sure if the crank seals are available in different configurations like the rear main seal...

Edited by jgerock

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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  • 1 year later...

Reviving this thread as I have a similar question to the one Paul had above. 
 

Shallow groove but more obvious than groove in Paul’s hub. In my case the front seal was a leaker. The old seal cracked very easily when getting it out. 
 

For the groove on the rear side of the crank I put in a shim with the seal and that worked well. Should I do the same here? Or speedi-sleeve?

 

@PaulTWinterton What did you end up doing?

 

31E6EC2E-3929-4BA7-8D6E-CE41455F3C4B.thumb.jpeg.9605b7f720cfede2de3521ddb51a2234.jpeg

 

'72 2002tii 'Liesl'

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6 minutes ago, mvliotta said:

What did you end up doing?

 

Left as is.  I did a test fit of the lower cover (with new seal), crankshaft and hub.  The "groove" was not lined up with the new seal, but slightly offset.  I'm thinking that seals have changed over the years and the sealing edges are not exactly in the same place.   Oh yeah, the old seal (original, I think) was a single, and the new one was a double seal.

 

@dlacey had the right idea as well.  Seat the seal slightly less or more to avoid the groove.

 

Yours looks much more worn.  In reading the old posts I'm surprised and encouraged by Toby's post about using JBWeld to fill the groove.  I did a similar job on a shaft and found that JBWeld is up to the task as a surface replacement.  There is no stress on the area, just contaminants wearing down the surface.  Keep the oil clean and it should last a long time, IMO.

 

 

 

 

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73 Inka Tii #2762958

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Yeah, that's what's called a 'speedi- sleeve'.

 

I always wondered what would happen when the sleeve wore through...

Seemed like you'd get a sudden, messy failure.

 

I've finally resealed Jenn's '04 e46 wagon- all the 'rubber' seals were hard as rocks.

Where seals from 1964 Datsuns, Volvos and 1974 BMW 2002s were usually still pliable.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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So, ordered up the right diameter sleeve.You could see the model number on the side of the box and diameter range. Thanks @dlacey for the suggestion. 


CE31F1D0-612D-4EDA-BCAB-54CC8F8255B0.thumb.jpeg.4541cca273f6d8f1b33f0e76cbc9eb92.jpeg
 

I think this is the way to go in my case. The directions recommend to epoxy fill the groove and hammer in the sleeve soon after.  
 

The groove in the shaft is about 0.07mm deep and took 48years to make. Wall thickness of the sleeve is 0.25mm. Sooooo, I can drive the car for at least another 150 yrs without a worry in the world.  ?

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'72 2002tii 'Liesl'

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Your groove looks a lot thicker than that in the pic- in that case, sleeve away!

They do come highly recommended.

 

I too used grease for decades- and sometimes, my seals leaked almost from day 1.

I finally took one apart (bkuz racey kar) and found grease still in the groove.

And grease is NOT supposed to go as fast (in SFM) as that big rear main seal goes.

 

So I've switched to whatever is in the case I'm trying to seal, as a pre- lube.

I'll let you know in another decade or so if it's an improvement...

 

t

now with turrrrboooooo!

  • Like 1

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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