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Gasoline leak and strong smell in cabin/trunk


ssp2019

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I'll wager a pint that it is the outlet bushing based on how tight the hose clamp is around the outlet compared to the clamp around the nylon fuel line running to the carb.  If I'm wrong I'll send a glass of the best  local draught to Simeon and a new bushing to the OP.

Fuel Sender Hose Clamp Comparison.jpg

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Thank you for your answers. I don’t recall seeing anything white inside the lip of that outlet tube, I’ll check again in daylight. From the picture, if a bushing is there it looks crushed. Are these bushings readily available? Does it need two, one on either end? I suppose it’s purpose is to seal. 

Is it an easy and fairly safe procedure for a rookie like myself with a screwdriver? 

Thanks again

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15 minutes ago, chago997 said:

Are these bushings readily available?

 

 

You only need one and if you will PM me with your address I'll send one to you.    It is a very common cause of fuel leaks and asphyxiation in the '02s.  You can replace it easily in a well ventilated space with no open flames, static electricity, lightening, or mother-in-laws.  

 

32 minutes ago, Simeon said:

 Might well expect an air leak into the fuel line at that point. 

 

Yes indeed, with the attendant hard starts, fuel starvation, ...

 

Since you were so diplomatic in your concession Simeon, I'll drop in to the pub tonight, have a pint drawn and get it out to you via Air Mail post haste.  Hopefully it will still have a good head when it arrives in Sydney.?

 

 

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BMWCCA  Member #14493

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OP, I disagree with the harmonious duo above-

if that line was leaking that much, you'd probably

have a fuel delivery/hard cold start problem.

 

There is a large o-ring seal between the sender and

the tank- those split, and do what you're smelling/seeing.

If it's far worse with a full tank, that really indicts the o- ring.

(you do still need Hal's sleeve, or smaller hose)

 

The sender has bayonet ears, so it simply unscrews from 

the top of the tank- a long flat (non- sparking!) object works on it.

If the old seal's been on there a long time, it will be well- stuck.

 

hth,

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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On the off chance that Toby is right, here is the technique he is referring to.  Although it appears the original workshop manual wasn't as concerned as Toby with OHSA regs and the sparky thing.  The o-ring is readily available from many sources.

Removing Fuel Tank Sender.jpg

Fuel Sender.png

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Well hell, I don't have that bushing either, have never had it, and I'm hunting down a fuel smell myself (well not actively hunting, just noticing and saying I'll get around to it someday, and I don't).  I just have overly tightened worm clamps, been that way since I bought it in '05.  Fuel smell is fairly new, though.

 

My fuel smell comes along shortly after hard cornering, then goes away.  I tried new carb bowl gaskets (DCOEs), and I've tried a few different ways of tightening the sender and that connection seems tight.  Might be time to try a bushing like that.

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Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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27 minutes ago, KFunk said:

Might be time to try a bushing like that.

 

 

PM me with your address and I'll send you one gratis.  I make them the same way BMW had them made by cutting pieces off of the nylon fuel line that is used to run to the engine bay.

 

If your tank shows fuel around the sender after cornering, then Toby's remedy is probably the answer.

 

 

Edited by halboyles

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40 minutes ago, halboyles said:

 

 

PM me with your address and I'll send you one gratis.  I make them the same way BMW had them made by cutting pieces off of the nylon fuel line that is used to run to the engine bay.

 

If your tank shows fuel around the sender after cornering, then Toby's remedy is probably the answer.

 

 

 

Appreciate it very much.  Let me take another look to verify o-ring is sealed tight when I get home, then I'll send you a PM.  Thanks!

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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When you R&R the rubber O-ring that seals the gauge sender/fuel pickup to the gas tank, (1) use a little silicone grease on the O-ring to keep it from bunching up when you tighten the sender and (2) be sure and use the O-ring that's made for the job.  It's supposed to swell in the presence of gasoline to provide a tight seal.  Your garden variety O-ring from the hardware or plumbing shop may not do that, and cause leaks.

 

mike

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