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Not sure if anyone has brought it up, but when I rebuilt my box the shims were corroded enough to hold tolerance but had a pretty constant leak... enough that there was no way it would get past the TUV boys.

 

So I sucked out all the gear oil that was left in the box and replaced it with Penrite Semi-Fluid Steering Box Lube. 

 

Made for a noticeably smoother box, and absolute zero leaking. 

 

So far, I'm quite happy with it. Anybody else tried it with more miles (or KM's) experience than me? 

SEMI0005.png

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That semi-fluid grease looks like a good one for the box.

Available comparable product in the US is an ISO 460 very thick EP gear lube.  Problem here is that it is packaged on too large a quantity for an individual with on steering box.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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2 minutes ago, 2002Scoob said:

the shims were corroded enough to hold tolerance but had a pretty constant leak.

 

Every box I have rebuilt had this problem because the shims are corroded.  It looks like all four thicknesses of shims are NLA (though some vendors still list them on their sites) so this steering box lube might be a good answer to the problem.

Used Shims (1).jpg

BMWCCA  Member #14493

www.2002sonly.com

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Yah, those aren't even that bad.

 

The issue is water/moisture from the outside corroding the outer edges, working it's way between the layers of the shims, which is plainly visible in your images. 

 

I might be purchasing a laser-cutting table here soon. maybe I can buy some dimensioned sheet and go into production :)

Edited by 2002Scoob
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Quote

Moly lubes in std product lines are a bit better, but moly is a flake form and works best in roller applications not sliding applications because the flakes tend to break up.

said jimk.

 

In THEORY, in the steering boxes we do have rolling pressure,

not sliding, as the mating roller is supposed to turn with 

the worm, right?

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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If you can get your mits on the  thicker, that would be my choice.

 

But full of good synthetic, as thick as you can get it, is jus' fine.

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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On 1/29/2019 at 7:46 PM, RonfromIN said:

An earlier post included a picture of two Amsoil choices; SAE 190 and SAE 250. Amsoil tech guy didn’t mention these products. Can’t get good help these days. 

 

I’m going with the earlier post unless someone disagrees. 

 

Can't get good help because of what the tech told you, or because of what you heard on the internet?

 

... Just cuz the tech didn't mention two products recommended by someone over the internet doesn't mean the tech is wrong... Those Amsoil guys typically know their shit. If he didn't mention it for usage, I'd bet it's for a reason. 

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Good point. Yesterday I talked to the local Amsoil rep here in Tucson. He said either of the heavier “racing” products can be used in older steering box applications where excessive wear or leaks are a concern. 

 

Thanks for for the follow up. 

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Asking this question will let you know how inexperienced I am under the hood. I want to pull out the old steering box oil and replace with a gear oil you guys recommended. I cleaned off top of steering box and see a clear plastic “plug”. Tugged on it a bit and it doesn’t appear to simply pull out.  Does it pull out or turn out?  I’m assuming it’s reusable. Does look like previous owner had some clear sealer around it I cleaned off. Hopefully I’ll be able to suck old stuff out. 

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All the plugs I have seen are red plastic. 

Yours may be something the PO jammed in. 

Typically they just pull/pry out.

 

Hopefully you find some oil in there.  I did not know mine leaked, until I added oil and it slowly dripped out.

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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