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Chicago 1967 1600 update


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Hey guys,

 

I've been a bit radio silent, I know. Started a new job recently and had a few other projects on deck that took priority (and the money, too...), so I haven't been able to do too much to the 1600. This is the one I bought from a friend in San Francisco around Thanksgiving. One thing I have been doing is driving it, though. Any chance I get. Despite the shift linkage being a sloppy disaster, it runs really well and the suspension and steering are tight as a drum. Hell, it brakes pretty well, too.

 

All that said, there's plenty to be done. Most of the window seals are harder than Chinese algebra, I want to go back to a mechanical fuel pump, I'd like to move to an alternator with an internal voltage regulator, tires are old enough to be in high school, hazard switch/relay is wonky, no power going to the HVAC blower, etc. And then there's the paint and interior... But hot damn, she still starts right up every time.

 

The car has been running well with the cooler plugs and 87 octane. Every once in a while I swear I can hear some pinging, but that damn electric fuel pump is so noisy, I just don't really know. I pull plugs here and there and they look good, so I'll be trying 93 premium soon to see if there's any difference.

 

I have yet to service the carb (rebuild kit is on its way), but it's happier with the new air filter and one of the air correction jets was loose, so I snugged that up. Found a loose fuse holder so now my tail lights are back. Lubed the front caliper pins and now my driver's caliper stopped making noise... You get the drift...

 

I did paint the wheels, hated them being painted in matching body color. Still planning on putting on 14" BMW steelies, but this will have to do for now (see pics below).

 

I even drive it when it's wet out, but since the door locks don't work (next project), I don't leave it parked much in the city.

 

All that said, this site has been a massive help when I've needed to research a problem (needed a new ballast resistor for the ignition coil last weekend and had no problems finding which value my coil required on this site), and I want to thank you guys, past and present, for all the great info.

 

Here are a few pics.

 

 

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Nice job on those rims, they look nice!

 

When you shop for a fuel pump, be sure to get the long neck style and not the stubby little Pierburg one that interferes with the coolant hose that runs underneath it.  (I made that mistake)

 

(not this style)

Fuel Pump - Mechanical

(but one more like this)

Fuel Pump

Tom

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     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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3 minutes ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

Nice job on those rims, they look nice!

 

When you shop for a fuel pump, be sure to get the long neck style and not the stubby little Pierburg one that interferes with the coolant hose that runs underneath it.

 

(but one more like this

Tom

 

Thanks, Tom! I've seen your work, so I really do appreciate the compliment. I recently enjoyed reading and watching your mods on the stock snorkel air cleaner housing. Using the potter's wheel for creating the proper dome was brilliant!

 

Duly noted regarding the fuel pump. The car came with three brand new Pierburg fuel pumps (two long necks and one stubby one) and apparently the previous owner's mechanic couldn't get any of them to work when her old one went out. I'm hoping he just had the wrong length push rod or something like that, but I will be sure to post when I dig into that. And I will make sure not to use the stubby one.

 

If I'm not mistaken, I used Rustoleum primer and Rustoleum metallic aluminum rattle can paint on the wheels that I picked up at Walmart. The color is perhaps a bit brighter than I'd have preferred, but not bad. I scuffed them first with #0 steel wool, then hit them with Prep-All, primed, painted, and let dry in the sun. The tires were so greasy from whatever tire shine someone had put on them, so that blue tape did not want to play nice and kept lifting, but that same greasiness made it very easy to clean any overspray off with acetone.

 

 

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Ah, it's all coming back to me now... we did already discuss your pumps a bit.  Sorry for the repetition.  (I have a bit of an attitude about those stubby ones).

 

Thank You for the compliment.  I am thinking I may be putting the last lid back on the potter's wheel for a little more puffing-up.  mmmaybe.  Of course I will post another dozen photos if I do :D 

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     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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19 minutes ago, 02tradition said:

Dude thats totally awesome. You should start a blog of your adventures. All the cool kids are doing it ;)

 

Thanks, man! I really should. I feel like I've been stealing a few minutes here and there to try to knock things out, so it's been hard to document, but when I do the door locks, alternator and fuel pump, I will fire up a blog. Speaking of which, looking at yours now. Holy $hit, you've got a great build going!

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1 hour ago, larryt said:

this doesnt look like the correct mechanical fuel pump for the engine. 

 

It also looks different than the one on my car, which has the stamped steel housing, but it is the one currently offered as OEM-BMW from BLUNT.

 

https://www.blunttech.com/products/7329361

 

Description

The revised part for NLA long neck fuel pump 13311261622.

 

Manufacturer: Genuine BMW Part
Product Code: 13311257784

 

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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The OEM fuel pump on your '67 (and actually all the single barrel-carb equipped cars) was the earlier style held together with 5-6 screws--and is rebuildable.  Essentially the same pump as used on air-cooled VWs, so rebuild kits are available from VW suppliers.  If you're going for correctness, that's the pump to get.  

 

And BTW, if you or anyone else with an early 1600 is in need of an engine, I have a line on one here in Dayton.  Its number is 1504005, which makes it either a '66 or early '67--and most likely the former.   It's complete with carb, iron-bodied distributor and 6 volt electrics.

 

cheers

mike 

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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Ah, I should mention that the car has a 1968 2.0 liter engine in it and a 1974 head.

 

Mike, that 1600cc engine is very tempting. Were I tearing this one apart to go correct, I'd be all over that. 

 

This is the (disabled) pump that is currently on the car and below are the three new pumps that came with it. It also came with a NOS long push rod still unopened.

IMG_7040.JPG

IMG_7051.JPG

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5 minutes ago, mike said:

The OEM fuel pump on your '67 (and actually all the single barrel-carb equipped cars) was the earlier style held together with 5-6 screws--and is rebuildable.  Essentially the same pump as used on air-cooled VWs, so rebuild kits are available from VW suppliers.  If you're going for correctness, that's the pump to get.  

 

And BTW, if you or anyone else with an early 1600 is in need of an engine, I have a line on one here in Dayton.  Its number is 1504005, which makes it either a '66 or early '67--and most likely the former.   It's complete with carb, iron-bodied distributor and 6 volt electrics.

 

cheers

mike 

 

Wow, Mike,

 

VIN 1504010 was manufactured August 251966, so VIN 1504005 was probably manufactured the same day, or even the prior day.  That was from an really early 1600-2!

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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18 hours ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

 

It also looks different than the one on my car, which has the stamped steel housing, but it is the one currently offered as OEM-BMW from BLUNT.

 

 

it is very different to the one offered for a normal 2002, i made the same mistake, even though some parts places are showing for early models it isnt the correct pump. as mike said, the one for a single carb 1600 is the one without the outer spring and requires a longer pushrod to make it function. theres no doubt you probably could get this one to work but the correct one is essential for the correct fueling. 

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On 5/14/2018 at 9:39 PM, Johnny Haywire said:

 

Thanks, man! I really should. I feel like I've been stealing a few minutes here and there to try to knock things out, so it's been hard to document, but when I do the door locks, alternator and fuel pump, I will fire up a blog. Speaking of which, looking at yours now. Holy $hit, you've got a great build going!

 Thanks! 

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20 minutes ago, Johnny Haywire said:

Of the three fuel pumps in the picture above, which would likely be the one to work with the 2.0 with a Weber 32/36 and 1974 head? The one in the middle?

 

the middle one looks more like an earlier fuel pump, i would say you would be looking for at the one on the left

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