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Pulling Turbo motor


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Finally scheduled two weeks where I can pull and rebuild the Turbo motor.  I was thinking I would pull bell housing bolts and pull the motor like the manual says. Or, Would you guys suggest pull as one?

 

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Edited by m6smitten
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It all depends on how much room you have overhead and if you want to take the hood off.  It is a tight fit if you leave the turbo on the manifold, you can remove the radiator and the fan and it will come forward enough to clear the input shaft in the clutch then it comes almost straight up.  You will have the front crank pulley up against the front sheet metal and the pressure plate will be just touching the flange above the blower motor (some blankets will help you not scratch things up).  You will need to support the transmission once the engine is out.  I find it a bit easier to remove the transmission first and then just lift the engine out (if you remove the pressure plate and clutch you will have a lot of room and won't scratch things up as easily) It is also much easier to put the engine back in without the clutch and lining the splines up to get the transmission installed is easier than installing the engine onto the transmission.  Of course you can always drop it all out the bottom but then you have to put the suspension back in so you can roll it around. 

 

Taking the engine out with the trans attached you need to remove the hood and have a way to tilt the engine and trans to get them out and you need a lot of height to get it all clear of the body.  I have done it all 3 ways and prefer to remove the trans first.   

Edited by Preyupy

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

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I prefer to drop the engine & gbox on the subframe, that's the way BMW put it in. Can be done without disturbing the bonnet alignment, rad left in place... sure you have to separate the hydraulic lines...but compared to wrestling the engine back on to the gearbox I would choose the hydraulic bleed every time.

Screenshot_20180515-085154.thumb.jpg.4f0ca99700b6c6f2d9ed849b07019e99.jpg

 

That thing in top right is AC compressor, I didn't wanna depressurise the system.

 

I've seen it done without a lift, get a few friends to lift up the front of the shell and wheelbarrow it away leaving the subframe on the floor.

'59 Morris Minor, '67 Triumph TR4A, '68 Silver Shadow, '72 2002tii, '73 Jaguar E-Type,

'73 2002tii w/Alpina mods , '74 2002turbo, '85 Alfa Spider, '03 Lotus Elise

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I removed the transmission first as that was the initial problem.

 

But prior to that, I did a leakdown test and found that the engine needed to be refreshed.

 

I did remove all the peripherals, then the exhaust, then the head so it made it easy to remove the block with the hood on.

 

When I install, I haven't decided whether to have the exhaust and turbo on, but will probably not have the distributor flange attached.

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It's a lot easier to put the manifold and turbo on the engine before you install it than installing it after the fact.  You just need to be careful to not bang it into everything.

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

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good to know how you do it.

 

I have taken the exhaust apart several times in the car; once for a new turbo, and several times for blown out exhaust gaskets, all the while arguing with it. Just didn't know if you could place the engine with it installed.

 

Thanks!

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Car has 115,000 kilometers. Ran it hard and noticed steam in the exhaust.Plus It has smoked since I bought it so, I thought it may need some love - top and bottom.

 

Some good news: the exhaust manifold is straight and came of with ease. Was wondering if a 3-D scan and print may be of value? Possibly for casting later.Thoughts?

Edited by m6smitten
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It is hard to tell from the pictures but the discoloration on the flame rings between the combustion chamber and the water jacket on the exhaust side could be a bit of a leak under boost. 

 

There is currently someone with my spare turbo exhaust manifold scanning it and making a pattern. 

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

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To do list: 

rings; bearings (main, pilot? and rod); chains (oil and cam) and guide; tensioner; valve guides and seals; resurface flywheel; get head machined.

Please let me know if I missed anything.

 

Do you guys coat your exhaust manifold with ceramic or other heat treatment?

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Here's what I am doing. I say that as the block is done and the head just needing final assembly.

 

In addition to yours above, I had the cylinders checked for porosity, ovality and dimensioned. New bearings, connecting rods checked, pistons checked.

 

NOS oil pump, cam gears, and "all that' timing chain gear.

 

New OE valves, seats, guides, and seals. The rockers, shafts, and remaining valve train were perfect, so no replacement. all the valves and valve springs were matched and installed to the same tension and length.

 

Balanced the crank from the front pulley to the clutch PP, including a NOS starter ring gear.

 

Refresh injection pump and balancing with the altitude compensator. Refurbish the injectors, new injector lines. New pump belt.

 

Refresh throttle body bearings and seals, check the overpressure valve function.

 

Refresh distributor.

 

Starter is relatively new so it is fine.

 

turbo was refurbished using my "last" rebuild kit from KKK.

 

To your question about coatings for the exhaust, I thought about it, but think I will pass. I "may" use thermotec wrap for the pipe and a boot for the turbo. Haven't decided yet.

 

On my M3 E30, I had the Swain Tec white coating on the header, which was really nice for a few years. But in time, the white flakes off where there are "hot spots", and turns off white or "dirty". i was told by Swain Tec that the heat properties were not affected, but it doesn't make sense to me.

 

That said, I do have an additional new primary pipe and it is painted grey, the same as the exhaust system.

 

Also engine related, I found a "secret stash" of oil coolers, and will replace my rusty unit.

 

That's all I can think of right now for the engine.

 

 

 

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I have had the exhaust manifolds and hot side turbo housing coated to help with cracking due to huge temp changes On/off boost.  I don't know how much help it really is but it can't hurt.  I have a lot of experience on other engines both race and street with the various thermal coatings and I know they work.  On some engines/cars better than others.   

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

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