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The '74 TIi has arrived - now the "fun" starts


tdskip

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Done!

 

It is loose, just need to remove the throttle linkage and it will come off.

 

Is there a recommend place / linkage point to remove it?

 

I am insanely curious to see what is under the head. Bracing myself for much nastiness.

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tdskip, love this hour by hour replay.  It's like watching a drama unfold.  I'm on the edge of my seat waiting for the next post. Thanks for the entertainment! Good luck! 

Bob

BMWCCA #4844 (#297 of The 308)

1974 2002 Sahara, MM 2400 Rally engine, MM 5 speed and conversion

1976 2002A Anthracite parts car

1991 525i AlpinweiB II

2002 330ci AlpinweiB III

2007 530xiT Titanium Silver

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Good morning -  I would recommend living vicariously on this one, you don't really want to be dealing with it first hand. Ha. 

 

I stared at the linkage for another minute and figured it out.

 

Can't say I'm really surprised, but yikes. YIKES.

 

 

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Close ups.

 

Looks like a head gasket failure on #1 (rusty one,  pictures uploaded in reverse order so the last close up is of number one and the rusty valve is number one as well, sorry about flipping around the orientation )

 

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Edited by tdskip
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I scraped the surface gunk off the Pistons and shot some penetrating fluid into each bore and the good news is the Pistons cleaned up a little bit, better than I expected, and they move freely and are smooth in how they move BUT 'm still not getting a full rotation. 

 

Something in the block is preventing 360 degree movement.

Edited by tdskip
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1 hour ago, ray_ said:

Is that exhaust valve smacked?

 

Hi Ray,  it sure looks like in the picture but upon wire brushing them I don't see any cracks or contact marks.

 

It seems odd that the smaller valve in number one clearly has a different wear pattern on it and the others.

 

Anyone know what that built up whitish material on the small valves is? 

 

 Pictures are in order, that is to say the first picture is number one  call by two etc 

 

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1 hour ago, tdskip said:

 

Oh I am sure the transmission is all goofed up too.

 

Were you able to save that gearbox?

 

Yup- both the engine and trans were reinstalled in another 73.  These cars are tough.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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37 minutes ago, jgerock said:

Yup- both the engine and trans were reinstalled in another 73.  These cars are tough.

 

Well that is encouraging.

 

I suppose I should just keep disassembling everything I can reach since it will need to be done anyway and will make it easier to pull the engine?

 

 

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8 hours ago, tdskip said:

I scraped the surface gunk off the Pistons and shot some penetrating fluid into each bore and the good news is the Pistons cleaned up a little bit, better than I expected, and they move freely and are smooth in how they move BUT 'm still not getting a full rotation. 

 

Something in the block is preventing 360 degree movement.

 

Is it possible that the rusted walls of #2 cylinder have become the impediment to a full revolution of the crankshaft?

 

It appears you’ve had coolant in cylinders #1 and 2.  I’m already thinking...sleeves on both cylinders, but you need to get this baby apart and to the machine shop.

 

The combustion chamber of my ‘76’s cylinder #1 leaked water into the cylinder — the old coolant ate its way through the head’s cooling jackets — causing a rust situation not very different from your cylinder #2.  We sleeved the cylinder and are good to go!

 

But just to be clear, you should be thinking that, in all likelihood, even the best cylinders, #’s 3 and 4, are likely to need overboring — as opposed to simply honing — and, consequently, you’re going to need a new set of pistons.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

Edited by Conserv

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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20 minutes ago, Conserv said:

 

Is it possible that the rusted walls of #2 cylinder have become the impediment to a full revolution of the crankshaft?

 

It appears you’ve had coolant in cylinders #1 and 2.  I’m already thinking...sleeves on both cylinders, but you need to get this baby apart and to the machine shop.

 

The combustion chamber of my ‘76’s cylinder #1 leaked water into the cylinder — the old coolant ate its way through the head’s cooling jackets — causing a rust situation not very different from your cylinder #2.  We sleeved the cylinder and are good to go!

 

But just to be clear, you should be thinking that, in all likelihood, even the best cylinders, #’s 3 and 4, are likely to need overboring — as opposed to simply honing — and, consequently, you’re going to need a new set of pistons.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

 

Thanks Steve, hope you are having a good weekend.

 

So, I suppose if I was being an optimist, it may be the case that I can save the numbers matching block and reuse the head (both after machining of course).

 

I am still working off the assumption that the crank and/or rods are stopping the rotation but agree it may well be a ridge of corrosion. I don't want to put too much pressure on it when I rotate it. 

 

I put more penetrating oil in the bores and will see what, if anything, changes over night.

 

Keep taking bits off then to make pulling it easier?

 

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I just finished reading through your thread and wow... That car is lucky to have you as an owner. Good work.
Very interested to see what's stopping the rotation down in the block.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

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