The '74 TIi has arrived - now the "fun" starts

[Conserv]

3 hours ago, tdskip said:

My first highly technical endeavor, and yes, I know this is not the immediate priority at this point.

 

 

 

If it makes you feel good, go ahead!

 

Congrats on the car’s arrival!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

[Glen Karr]

Steve,

I would recommend following Rob Siegel's (the Hack Mechanic) post about returning a sitting Tii  to running condition.  Mine sat for ten years and I followed Robs recommendations and got it running smoothly after a few long hours of work and a few $$$.

Best of luck,

Glen

To save you some searching I've inserted Rob's recommendations:

• Pull the pickup tube from the gas tank.
• If, as soon as you open the tank up, it smells like varnish, you already know that you're going to need to systematically clean everything -- at a bare minimum, you'll need to drain the old gas and blow out all the lines.
• Inspect the screen at the base of the pickup tube.
• Verify that both the outflow and return lines on the pickup tube aren't clogged (I've just seen three tiis with this problem). Ream then out with a coathanger and compressed air.
• Shine a flashlight in the gas tank and make sure it's not full of rust or sediment. I've seen them look like pot roast. If it's bad, pull the gas tank and clean it. At a minimum, pressure wash it, dry it, put it back in, and refill it with five gallons of clean gas.
• Pull the fuel pump and inspect the conical screen at the inlet. It may be clogged or completely missing. 
• If the fuel filter inlet screen is missing, tap the inlet side out onto a paper towel. If rust and sediment come out, I'd recommend you replace the fuel pump.
• Disconnect the fuel filter to the left side of the radiator.
• With the fuel pump and fuel filter disconnected, blow the main fuel line out with compressed air into a bottle to catch what comes out. Inspect it. If there's massive amount of rust, blow brake cleaner into it and repeat until the rust is no longer visible when blown into a clean rag.
• Undo the return line from the back of the Kugelfisher pump.
• Do the same blowing out of the return line.
• Remove the pressure valve from the back of the Kugelfisher pump and visually inspect it, looking through it against a bright light. There should be a pinhole of light visible. If there's not, clean it with brake cleaner until there is.
• Pull the banjo bolt out of the front of the Kugelfisher pump and inspect the barrel-shaped screen inside it. I've spent hours removing and cleaning them.
• As said above, if the fuel smells like varnish, you really should blow out the plastic injection lines with compressed air, and pull the injectors and have them cleaned and tested.
• Reassemble everything, preferably replacing every fuel hose -- or at least every fuel hose that is too soft or rock-hard -- with OEM.
• Put a fuel pressure gauge just before the Kugelfisher pump. Turn on the ignition to run the fuel pump. It should read 29psi. 
• Inspect every part of the fuel delivery system for leaks.
• Try to start the car. Look in the throttle body at the cold start injector. If no fuel is being squirted, you'll have to troubleshoot the thermo time switch, or simply wire the cold start injector temporarily to the battery, or semi-permanently via a switch.
• Start the car. Inspect the plastic injection lines carefully for leaks, both at the base of the lines at the Kugelfisher pump as well as in the lines themselves (they do crack with age). 
• Look in the throttle body at the cold start injector to make sure it's not leaking.

[tdskip]

53 minutes ago, Conserv said:

 

If it makes you feel good, go ahead!

 

Congrats on the car’s arrival!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

Hi Steve!

 

It did, and does. Looks like it was all very superficial on the roof and hood.

 

I loath the idea of a car rusting on my watch.

 

 

[irdave]

1 hour ago, Glen Karr said:

Steve,

I would recommend following Rob Siegel's (the Hack Mechanic) post about returning a sitting Tii  to running condition.  Mine sat for ten years and I followed Robs recommendations and got it running smoothly after a few long hours of work and a few $$$.

Best of luck,

Glen

To save you some searching I've inserted Rob's recommendations:

 

 

Ditto, but mine was 30 years...

[tdskip]

1 hour ago, Glen Karr said:

Steve,

I would recommend following Rob Siegel's (the Hack Mechanic) post about returning a sitting Tii  to running condition.  Mine sat for ten years and I followed Robs recommendations and got it running smoothly after a few long hours of work and a few $$$.

Best of luck,

Glen

To save you some searching I've inserted Rob's recommendations:

• Pull the pickup tube from the gas tank.
• If, as soon as you open the tank up, it smells like varnish, you already know that you're going to need to systematically clean everything -- at a bare minimum, you'll need to drain the old gas and blow out all the lines.
• Inspect the screen at the base of the pickup tube.
• Verify that both the outflow and return lines on the pickup tube aren't clogged (I've just seen three tiis with this problem). Ream then out with a coathanger and compressed air.
• Shine a flashlight in the gas tank and make sure it's not full of rust or sediment. I've seen them look like pot roast. If it's bad, pull the gas tank and clean it. At a minimum, pressure wash it, dry it, put it back in, and refill it with five gallons of clean gas.
• Pull the fuel pump and inspect the conical screen at the inlet. It may be clogged or completely missing. 
• If the fuel filter inlet screen is missing, tap the inlet side out onto a paper towel. If rust and sediment come out, I'd recommend you replace the fuel pump.
• Disconnect the fuel filter to the left side of the radiator.
• With the fuel pump and fuel filter disconnected, blow the main fuel line out with compressed air into a bottle to catch what comes out. Inspect it. If there's massive amount of rust, blow brake cleaner into it and repeat until the rust is no longer visible when blown into a clean rag.
• Undo the return line from the back of the Kugelfisher pump.
• Do the same blowing out of the return line.
• Remove the pressure valve from the back of the Kugelfisher pump and visually inspect it, looking through it against a bright light. There should be a pinhole of light visible. If there's not, clean it with brake cleaner until there is.
• Pull the banjo bolt out of the front of the Kugelfisher pump and inspect the barrel-shaped screen inside it. I've spent hours removing and cleaning them.
• As said above, if the fuel smells like varnish, you really should blow out the plastic injection lines with compressed air, and pull the injectors and have them cleaned and tested.
• Reassemble everything, preferably replacing every fuel hose -- or at least every fuel hose that is too soft or rock-hard -- with OEM.
• Put a fuel pressure gauge just before the Kugelfisher pump. Turn on the ignition to run the fuel pump. It should read 29psi. 
• Inspect every part of the fuel delivery system for leaks.
• Try to start the car. Look in the throttle body at the cold start injector. If no fuel is being squirted, you'll have to troubleshoot the thermo time switch, or simply wire the cold start injector temporarily to the battery, or semi-permanently via a switch.
• Start the car. Inspect the plastic injection lines carefully for leaks, both at the base of the lines at the Kugelfisher pump as well as in the lines themselves (they do crack with age). 
• Look in the throttle body at the cold start injector to make sure it's not leaking.

 

Great list - thishis the car where the engine has interference and won't complete a full rotation.

 

Unless someone sees anything that jumps or at them from the valve train pictures I am going to have to dig deeper.

 

That, and keep using the naval jelly. Wait, that sound weird.

 

[tdskip]

Good morning / afternoon.

 

Going to get the old fuel out later today, hopefully via the drain plug that my car has.

 

I am down to clean metal on all of the hood and roof exposed metal, am going to throw some kind of / sort of matching paint on top to make sure it doesn't rust again.

 

i have a borescope so need to get that fired up and see if I can determine anything from looking down the spark plug holes.

 

Picked up the NGK BP5ES plugs that people here seem to like.

 

[tdskip]

Good news - has cap looks new.

 

Bad news - I don't have the key for it.

 

 

[tdskip]

Huh, was not expecting to see a new fuel tank in there.

 

The mystery deepens.

 

 

 

[otisdog]

Wrong key - the gas tank key has a round(ish) head.

[tdskip]

Good morning, that was the closest key that was with the car. Obviously didn’t fit, none of them did. Oh well.

 

Do I need to remove this from the inside? Basically take the filler neck off from inside the trunk?

 

Thanks!

 

[ray_]

20 minutes ago, tdskip said:

Good morning, that was the closest key that was with the car. Obviously didn’t fit, none of them did. Oh well.

 

Do I need to remove this from the inside? Basically take the filler neck off from inside the trunk?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

Yes. And that's easily done.

 

GL,

[tdskip]

Thanks Ray.

 

I think I am going to keep picking at things that need to be done anyway while getting an engine rebuild plan in place.

 

Have a good Saturday 

 

[ray_]

5 minutes ago, tdskip said:

Thanks Ray.

 

I think I am going to keep picking at things that need to be done anyway while getting an engine rebuild plan in place.

 

Have a good Saturday 

 

 

Good. There will be no shortage of those

 

Where are you? You  might add your location to your profile.

 

Cheers,

[tdskip]

Hi Ray, I am in SoCal.

 

Gearbox shifter has a huge amount of vertical play, I'll add that to the list of items what will keep me busy.

 

[Gordon]

If you haven't browsed through this website, recommend you do since it's from someone who has been there, done that in regards to restoring a 74 tii. http://www.my2002tii.com/

 

As a 74 tii owner myself, I have spent a lot of time in this website.

 

G-Man