Rear Axle crown bolt removal - Somebody used loctite????

[Einspritz]

Stronger:

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-pc-34-in-drive-metric-impact-socket-set-69519.html

 

Mine came in a carrying case, but you get the idea.

 

In that way, you can get that 6' cheeter bar on your breaker, and jump up and down on it.

 

Gentlemen, get your coupons!

[arminyack]

I did this over the summer....and had to fall back on my last resort!

 

[DaHose]

That torque multiplier is the shizzle.  Although at that price, you are probably half-way to buying the HF Earthquake XT cordless 1/2" impact.  That thing puts out a for-real 500 ft/lb of nut breaking torque.  I think that would be enough to get things loose.  I'll know for sure when I use mine to tear rear my hubs down.

 

Alternately, I would agree with getting the 3/4 drive HF tools.  I purchased a 3/4 ratchet to put the crank nut back onto my M6 (S38) engine.  It goes on at 380 ft/lb, so I can attest to the durability of the HF 3/4 tools.

 

Jose

[Hodgepodge]

7 hours ago, arminyack said:

I did this over the summer....and had to fall back on my last resort!

 

What the heck is that thing?   

[Guest DaHose]

I already toldja, hodgepodge.  It's a torque multiplier.  That kind is often used to remove the lug nuts on big rigs.

 

Jose

[Einspritz]

this is what I use to remove nuts and bolts when the air tools won't, and with a torque wrench to get them tight:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03716B-Torque-Multiplier-Foot-Pound/dp/B002GQ3PZ8

 

and get a long pipe to hold it secure.

 

You can see the above lug nut remover at the bottom of the page.

 

Works on the rear transmission flange nut, the differential nut, and the front crank nut or bolt depending on the engine.

[Hodgepodge]

Ah, ok.   I was thinking it would look somewhat different.   I see one like that on  Amazon.     Not a bad option at all! 

 

3500 lbs of torque?   I would just have to anchor the trailing arm down with a car larger than the 2002......   

 

What are you using for an anchor?  

 

 

Edited March 27, 2018 by Hodgepodge

[Einspritz]

Years ago I got an 8' piece of heavy angle iron, drilled holes for the lug bolts, and then had to cut out an arc to clear around the center. Bolt that up.

 

Similarly, a long pipe to fit over the rod on the multiplier, then a 2' breaker bar on the back of the multiplier to remove, a torque wrench (at 1/3rd of the torque necessary) to tighten.

[Hodgepodge]

On 3/26/2018 at 10:13 AM, NYNick said:

Of course JimK is correct, God knows where my head was last night, maybe it was that last beer. 

 

The front hubs need to settle the (new) bearings when first installed and then backed off. Haynes has the procedure on page 172. Initial tightening is 20lbs at first, then finger tight. Let me know if you need the actual procedure and I take a pic or scan it for you.

This tighten and then back-off (usually by one cotter-pin hole in my experience) is what I'm used to.  Done a lot of trailer and other axles that way.  200 foot pounds....still trying to comprehend that.... 

[NYNick]

12 minutes ago, Hodgepodge said:

This tighten and then back-off (usually by one cotter-pin hole in my experience) is what I'm used to.  Done a lot of trailer and other axles that way.  200 foot pounds....still trying to comprehend that.... 

289 + 51.

Don't screw around.

 

Let me ask you why you're doing your bearings?

[Hodgepodge]

3 hours ago, NYNick said:

289 + 51.

Don't screw around.

 

Let me ask you why you're doing your bearings?

289 +51 front??  The reference was related to the front wheels. 

 

NYNick, I was not referring to these cars.  I've done a lot of trailer bearings, especially pressurized boat trailer bearings.  You have to pull and repack them every so often just in case they lose pressure and get wet (especially wet with salt water).  Most of those, once you get the bearing buddies and covers off, are the screw-down and back-off kind.  That's what I was referring to.   I haven't done bearings on any of my newer BMWs, but I just looked in my bentley books and see the the E90-E93 rear axle torque is 184-310 ft-lbs and the E60-61 rear torque is 310 ft lbs.  I still have an E39 book and it says 300 ft-lbs for the rear.  Front is 110 on the E9x and 85 on the E6x.  I have the Haynes and Chilton and a couple of other service manuals for the 2002 that I kep by my bed and just ordered the workshop manual. (Sadly, nothing like the Bentley manuals for 2002s so far...).  I was just too stupid to think about it and look before I went to remove the rear outer axle. 

 

This 2002 is showing 129k miles, TMU.  Given that I'm restoring/replacing almost everything on this car and am refinishing/powdercoating all the subframe parts, I don't think it makes sense to skip the bearings.   It is possible, though, that these bearings might beat me.  We'll see.  

 

  

[Einspritz]

For clarification:

 

All the E  series cars you mention have bearing Cartridges in the front and rear and as such have the high torque values against the inner races.

 

The 2002 has "traditional" tapered roller front bearings that have an outer race with the  inner bearing and cage fitting over the spindle. There are different sizes for the inner and outer front bearings, and differences between 2002 and Tii bearing sets.

 

Those are tightened at a very low torque value or by hand until the washer is unable to be moved by a screwdriver back and forth within the hub. Secure with the castellated nut and the cotter key.

 

The 2002 rear bearings are traditional ball cages and have the rear CV joint stub axle with spline go through the inner race of the bearings, and the hub fits onto the tapered spline. The reason the torque is so high is so that the hub stays tight, and does not work loose. When it works loose, it will wobble and wear both the hub and the spline, manifested by a growling sound from the back of the car, until you brake lightly and it goes away.

 

Make sure that the surface of the stub axle and hub that mates with the inner and outer seals is polished and has no rust nor corrosion, otherwise it will tear up the seal quickly.

 

The reason people put in new bearings is that unlike the modern cartridges, the old style have the propensity of the grease to dry out or the seals fail. Even though the center of the swing axle has grease, I have never seen it migrate to the bearings proper. You can use a "sealed" version of those bearings, but they must be the "C3" version.

 

Make sure that you keep the shims and re-position them as they came out.

 

The only time I have seen outright bearing failure is when I used Redline grease.

 

Cheers.

[Einspritz]

Forgot to mention to use anti seize compound on the splines to keep the two pieces from rusting together.

 

Now you're good for another 200,000 miles.