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Is this Fjord Metallic?


tdskip

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45 minutes ago, tdskip said:

Thank you for the fast responses  and confirmation. 

 

So if I'm reading the color combinations correctly this looks like it's a factory blue interior as well, yes?

 

 

IMG_5057.JPG

 

The original interior was, in all likelihood, navy blue -- although a few square taillight Fjord cars appear to have come with tan interiors.

 

At minimum, however, the seat faces have been reupholstered: virtually all U.S.-spec cars had all-vinyl seat faces, with perforated vinyl in the center sections, flanked by smooth vinyl on the bolsters.  1974-style seats also had a smooth vinyl panel on the backrest, beginning 2/3rds-way up the backrest.  The smooth vinyl on the side of that right front seat appears to be lighter in color and have considerably more grain than the stock smooth vinyl.  If this is a 1975 or 1976 car, on the other hand, the front seats themselves have been swapped out: the widespread headrest supports and black splatter-painted recliners scream "pre-'75"!

 

The door cards look original.  I can't see enough of the carpet to know whether it is original.  So the color of the interior is original even if all the details are not original.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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16 hours ago, tdskip said:

 

It ia the one in Reno, and I bought it.

 

Not sure if not was a smart buy yet or I am a chump.

Can't imagine you'd lose at the asking price. Well done.

Les

'74 '02 - Jade Touring (RHD)

'76 '02 - Delk's "Da Beater"

FAQ Member #17

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15 minutes ago, Mark92131 said:

 

That was a terrific buy at the asking price of $3500.

 

What are your plans for it?

 

Mark92131

 

Hi Mark,  thank you for the note. 

 

I appreciate the sentiment but it's probably too early to know whether it was as good of a buyers it initially looks. There's something that's preventing the engine from spinning freely. It moves freely but won't complete a full revolution, it gets stuck about 270° through a cycle.  So it's either dropped a valve, broken something in the block, or if I'm ridiculously lucky has a flywheel bolt that's come loose or similar.

 

I am not planning on being ridiculously lucky...

 

Like many of you I actually use my cars, mostly for zipping around Orange County and long-distance touring events a couple times a year. The plan is to get her to safely run/steer/stop, then make sure that she's not going to deteriorate by addressing any rust issues, and then use her for a while and let issues that need attention present themselves. 

 

Sound like the right approach?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

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22 minutes ago, tdskip said:

Sound like the right approach?

 

Sounds exactly what I would do, sort the mechanical issues and then do any structural repairs before addressing the aesthetics.  Looks like a fun project, fingers crossed that the "stuck" engine is minor.

 

Mark92131

1970 BMW 1600 (Nevada)

 

 

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