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Just got E30 battery cable $1.50


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Guest Anonymous

battery+box.jpg

URL: http://members.roadfly.com/el-jet/E30+distribution+block.jpg

How To Use your E30 shit:

Materials List:

E30 battery cable (check)

E30 distribution block

E30 starter cable

E30 battery cable grommet or regular grommet

NAPA small marine battery box

4' - 1/8"x3/4" aluminum angle

6 - 3/4" long stainless steel machine bolts, washers, and nylocks.

~30" 2 gauge side-post terminal battery cable

~15" 2 gauge top post battery ground cable

Tools:

Dremel with cut-off wheels and grinding stone.

Drill with bits the size of the SS bolt you choose.

Auger bit

Ok, step one: Pick a spot to drill a hole for the battery cable to enter the engine room. I chose that weird angled surface right above and behind the clutch pedal, where it touches the firewall when depressed. Now, this is where you can decide whether you want to cut an oval hole like I did to fit the E30 grommet, or make it easy on yourself and use a regular grommet. I needed to borrow a sheet metal auger bit from a machinist friend, I guess they cost alot of money, so you might want to consider that. Now, if you're taking the E30 grommet road you'll want to hold up the E30 grommet *from both sides* of the firewall and make sure there is room to cut. If you have a late car there isn't much choice; it's pretty crowded. Hold up the grommet and trace around the shape and try and find the center points of the radius' as best you can. Now buy, borrow, or steal a sheet metal auger bit that's slightly smaller than the waist of the grommet. Drill pilot holes for the auger bit. Cut the radius' with the auger bit and use the dremel to open up the two holes where they cross each other, so you have an oval the same shape as the E30 grommet. Good job, this was the hardest part.

step two: Whip out the aluminum angle, and cut four pieces to surround the base of the small marine battery box. Drill holes in each piece for the SS machine bolts, one at each end. Now, measure the width of the strap that is included with the battery box. Use the dremel cut-off wheels to cut a slit in the center of the two longest pieces of aluminum angle for the strap to lace through and get a strong hold on the battery box once the aluminum is bolted to the trunk floor. Now say to yourself, "I like long sentences."

step three: Center the battery box in your trunk with the ports for the battery cable facing towards the rear of the car. Surround the base of the box with the four pieces of aluminum angle so it is tight, this will prevent the box from sliding when your driving around the city like a mad-man. Drill holes in the trunk floor to match the aluminum bolt holes, being aware of the diff hanger reinforcement underneath the trunk floor. Bolt down the aluminum angle with the battery box strap laced through the slits.

step four: Run the E30 battery cable through the rectangular hole above the drivers-side rear wheel well and slide the plastic protector sleeve over that portion of the cable. Now take it through the back seat bulkhead down by the seat belt reel/mounting point. Then go through that little tunnel in the seat rail and up and over to the grommet in the firewall.

step five: Mount the E30 distribution block. I chose to bolt it onto the washer bottle holder right above the brake booster. The holes line up perfectly with the distribution block mounting bolts. If you are using your washer system or you have an early car, you might want to mount it on the drain gutter sheet metal, you know what I'm talking about. Bolt the tapered lug end of the E30 battery cable to the distribution block and then remove the stock starter cable and engine block to battery ground. Take the E30 starter cable and run it from the tapered lug end of the battery cable at the distribution block to the starter (relay). File the non-recessed side of the side-post terminal end of the cable you bought so it's nice, flat, and shiny. This is going to rest against the block and provide a block to chassis ground. You might want to scrape the rust off the block where the stock ground cable was bolted on. When I did this, the bolt that was in the block fit prefectly through the side-post terminal end, and the washer fit perfectly inside the recess in the terminal end, so just bolt that end of the cable to the block. Find a nice nest for the other end of the new block ground. I chose to bolt to the common chassis ground point right next to the relays. If your car doesn't have this, then take off an upper strut bearing nut and sand off some paint around the bolt, then bolt it to there with the strut bearing nut.

I think you can figure the rest out. When your done go get wasted and make a fool of yourself to the little kids nextdoor.

Thanks and Rock On,

Elliot Goldstein

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