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Ran When Parked.


2002Scoob

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Sweeeet.  Congratulations.

 

 

 

Edited by '76mintgrun'02

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  (3-28-2024)

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1 hour ago, 2002Scoob said:

 

DING DING DING DING!

 

Finally, I'm not the only one that had that stupid problem.  Mine was intermittent due to some worn insulation, and left me stranded on a miserable rainy morning driving home after a night of drinking.  Got it fired up again later at home, only to die a short distance from house, and then have wife pull me back with a chain.  In the process, I falsely blamed the HotSpark and switched to Crane, then their troubleshooting guide led me to find the real problem.  It tells you to test for 12V at positive terminal first, and also hook a test light to the negative post on the coil.  The test light should flash every time the dizzy tells the coil to fire while you're cranking engine.  Instead of flashing, mine just had a semi-steady dull glow from the short somewhere.  Disconnected tach wire, engine fires right up.  I ended up replacing the whole wire with a new one going straight to tach, with good crimped weatherproof terminals.

The root issue might be worn insulation somewhere on that wire, or the terminal at tach has wiggle loose and is resting against something it shouldn't.  No idea why it'd happen while sitting over the winter, but weird shit happens, and also critters chew on things.  

Edited by KFunk
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Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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On 3/15/2018 at 6:48 AM, Swiss 2002Tii said:

Bluetooth connectivity is easy, just turn Bluetooth on your phone or iPad off/on, and it reconnects. 

Looks like your curves are still saved, so I'd be surprised if that's it.  Their t-shooting points the finger at the coil...

 

Trouble Shooting

 

Now that you have one of the best ignitions available for your Classic car you will no doubt want the experience to be the best. So why not make the ignition system the best it can be by adding new plugs, wires and a coil of not less than 1 Ohm.

1.) A lot of problems are caused by a bad primary ignition circuit, specially high rpm problems. 
This means the circuit: Battery (+) --> Contact switch --> Coil (+) --> Coil (-) --> Ignition (black wire) --> Ignition to ground (minus (-) of the battery must all be in top shape.
This total circuit has a very low resistance. For example 3 Ohm when you use a Bosch blue coil or 1,8 Ohm with a Bosch red coil.
You will get a weak spark when there is a bad connection (resistance) somewhere in this circuit (for example a bad contact switch or a bad connection between the ignition and the battery (-).

2.) Never trust old coils as they may have been subjected to overheating which would damage the coil.

3.) Most cars are well along in years and have had multiple owners so what you see is not always correct in the wiring. Make sure the correct wires are going to the +ve and -ve side of the coil. While the car may run with the old points if the wires have been crossed it can keep the 123ignition from functioning properly.

4.) Weak Spark, Use a good quality spark plug wire if you have a weak spark. Check all connections in the ignition circuit for bad connections. I would check the voltage of the coil under load. Emphasize there needs to be good connections everywhere. Also check the GND and try another coil.

5.) Re check your wiring. On TUNE models the Blue wire (curve 1) goes to a good ground. The yellow wire goes to a power source (6 or 12v) and when it is energized provides curve 2.

6.) Light bulb test in the car. Basicly you are replacing the Coil with the light bulb for the test.

light-bulb-test.jpg

 

 

Back on Page 3, that there light bulb woulda got you to the answer, maybe.  I guess it could still test good with light, but then you connect it back in series with the tach, and its right back to being dead.  I don't think I ever disconnected my coil completely, and tested the whole bunch together.

 

edit: that trouble-shooting guide does not specify that the bulb should flash.  If its steady on while engine is cranking, then no, the car won't run.  

Edited by KFunk

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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2 hours ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

Sweeeet.  Congratulations.

 

 

 

 

Well, all is not perfect, but she's running. 

 

Tomorrow I need to get her out somewhere where I can put a timing light on her (can't in the garage) and confirm things are where they should be.

 

I just went for a short drive and the motor doesn't sound quite right and doesn't feel as smooth as last fall.

 

And on top of that, when I shut it down just now it dieseled for a second or two after turning off the ignition, which is a first. 

 

6mo. old gas? Too much timing, or too little? Buh. Now that she's running I really should just send her to an expert to get fully sorted.

 

Thanks again everyone!!!

Edited by 2002Scoob
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Become your own expert.

 

Probably timing too early,

but that's what the light is for.

 

t

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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9 hours ago, TobyB said:

Become your own expert.

Working on it! I reaaaaaalllly need to get a new workshop, or find a living situation where I can keep up my hobbies. I've got no doubt I coulda figured this out in a weekend had I had my old shop. 

9 hours ago, TobyB said:

Probably timing too early,

but that's what the light is for.

 

t

The timing being too early is my thinking too, I also added in vacuum advance into the mix the last week I drove her. Doubtful that comes into play, but again, I'm no expert. Just learning as I experience things :P

 

Temp gauge was sitting right at the half-way point the whole time last night. Not in the 'caution' range but I feel like it usually it sits lower, perhaps the head/plugs (Hotter range 6's because I was getting blackened plugs before) and getting toasty from incorrect timing.  I'm going to look at my jetting again too and enrich things a tad, perhaps a richer mixture will cool things off. It's in the low-mid 13's at idle, and leaning out towards high 13's and low 14's in the midrange and mid 13's up-top. I'm thinking to push the mid-top range back into the 12's would be best. 

 

The gas in her is quite old, and smells a tad 'varnish'-y. Now that I think about it, yah, it's probably more than 6mo, and unfortunately It's a full tank in there. I'm gunna set the timing proper and just let her burn off a 1/4 of it and top it up with fresh, burn a half, and top it up again. 

Edited by 2002Scoob
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A final update and this thread can go to bed.

 

TIMING IS EVERYTHING.

 

Sure enough... if you've got a 123, don't trust the little green light. Its enough to get it started, but it's not entirely accurate. Threw a light on it this AM, and timing was retarded around 5 degrees, even after doing a precision "rotate till the green light just turns on". 

 

Checked my timing at 1000, 1500, 2000, and all-in. Swapped out 185 air-correctors for 180's. Took her for an Italian tune up, shut her down and started her a few times with no dieseling, temp gauge dropped from the half-way point last night to about a 3rd up, and all is right with the world :) 

 

Cheers, FAQ!

Edited by 2002Scoob
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I have always recommended to confirm ignition timing against the green light of the 123.

 

Glad you got it sorted out. 

 

Ed

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'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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3 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

 

Where am I sending this Behemoth? :D

image.png.03315d58e5eeb11a65ee82b952d868c9.png

 

 

 

 

Damn, didn't know it'd be a big 'un.  I have been known to enjoy Snickers, quite a bit.  I don't know if its worth shipping all the way from Germany, but maybe you could just order through Amazon if you really want.  I'll PM you the address, but no worries if it doesn't happen.  Just glad the car is running, and sorry I didn't read this thread a month ago.  I assumed from the title that it was about a barn find, and not troubleshooting.

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Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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