jdamm

warm up regulator replacement,repair or refurb?

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Hi all, 

so here's the background; i'm in the final stages of my resto on my 73 tii roundie, i'm on final pre start checks and i noticed coolant on the floor under my 02.

i trace it to the bottom of the warm up regulator, checked the hoses attached at either side are tight which they were (and brand new), i crawl under and watch for a bit after removing the radiator cap, i spot the drip coming out of the seam on the bottom of the WUR, between the cast body and alu. cap on the bottom.

about 6 months ago i had my k.fisch and wur tested and checked over in england ( i'm in New Zealand) and the test results were good, and WUR was working "very well".

from reading some posts here, it looks like im in need of a replacement WUR but with my dwindling budget i want to know A) considering my WUR works well, can it be fixed at a reasonable cost? and by who or what profession?

B.) i am having a hard time finding one in NZ( they're like unicorns here), where is the most reasonably price stockist of refurbed or good working cond. WUR's?

 

like normal, if you have any advice, .02c or pointers i'm all ears.

thanks in advance, 

julian

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I got mine at Jaymic a couple of years ago, I think pro bimmer in the US do them as well. Could a JBweld type product seal the bottom?

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Hi Sydney tii, 

ok thanks for the shop names,i'll have a look.

yeah i had thought along those lines with JBweld but i wanted to know if that's a band-aid/short term emergency fix, based on members experiences.

have you tried jbweld personally? 

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If it is used properly (clean, key the items to be bonded, mix the product well in the right quantities) JBWeld can be a permanent repair.

 

Remove the WUR, clean the crack and surrounding area well with something like a small rotary wire brush (Dremel or die grinder) and perhaps gouge out the crack further so there is more surface area for the JBWeld to stick to. 

 

You could always find someone locally who welds alloy / aluminium and get them to weld and deposit more metal on the neck. For the hassle, I would just stick with the JBWeld.

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thanks simeon, which version of JBweld is the right one to use? they seem to have quite a range. 

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Make sure it has some temperature head room above the typical cooling system. I think they have one that is good for 120 deg C continuous and 140 deg C for short peaks. 

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