Hodgepodge

Please share your body dolly designs...

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I've seen a lot of you have pulled the suspension during your rebuilds and either used/welded a metal dolly or made a wooden one out of 4x6 or 6x6 lumber.  (And a few of you have rested your cars on tires or other things everybody warns you about....)    I'm thinkning a dolly,firmly attached to the car at the subframe/suspension mount points, would make it much easier to move around in the garage and to trailer to take to media blasting and paint while I work on the removed suspension and other bits. There are a lot of images and Youtube videos on wooden stands, but none specifically for 2002s.   I don't really want to buy a dolly and I suck at welding, but I happen to be an awesome carpenter.   So if anyone has a good design or even good images for a dolly, ideally a wooden one, that works with our cars, please share!   

 

 

I'm attaching an image of a starting point (properly scaled for a 2002, of course).    

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Thanks,

 

Scott

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No dimensions but here is what I did. 

 

John

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Perfect guys.  Scott can we add rotisserie also so I don't have to start a topic and can whack both of them out.   I'll just follow this. 

Thanks. 

 

Edit. Nice snug fit Harv. I like that one. 

Edited by penth2o

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Oh, I do so miss Otis...

 

('body dolly' indeed!)

 

t

jackstands, here, not very exciting.

Oh, wait, the Harbor Freight knockoff GoJax are actually not bad,

having used the real thing before having to buy them myself.

 

 

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Harv, that stand looks awesome! (Car, too!)  Was it physically attached or is the car just sitting on it?   And did your paint shop put the car on a rotisserie to get underneath?  

 

Eurotrash, your 3-wheeler stand looks almost dainty,  but of course it is made of metal so I'm sure it is strong.  

 

Penth20, Sure, if anyone has a rotisserie option, please include imges of that here!   (There are a bunch of Youtube and Pinterest entries for home-made rotisseries, they are way to large to fit in my garage.  I'm also not taking my car all the way down to the bare body.....at least I don't THINK I am!  :-) 

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Rapandi did it right on the cheap.

gotta give him credit. Plus he still has his dolly to roll it around.  

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I took a cue from the Restoration Design videos - how they make a pair of light tubing octagons and are able to combine the dolly function with the rotisserie function.  Plus the cage makes it possible to pick the whole thing up with a chain hoist to get it out of the way or work on it at a comfortable height. 

 

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I had a similar sort of dilemma when I was at that stage of my build - how do I make the shell mobile? I hunted around on Gumtree (craiglist equivalent) for a set of metal sawhorses and I found this chap selling heaps of them for $10 each. I bought a pair - shown below:

 

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I had the front sub frame out of the car so I inverted the saw horses on to the sub frame and marked the corresponding mounting holes which would match the frame rails. Drilled the holes.

 

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I found that the saw horses were short to span across the chassis bolts that hold the rear sub frame. So I went the scrap yard bought a rectangular hollow section for the price of a coffee and inserted it in to one of the horse like so..... I cut a key hole in the RHS cause that way I had more wiggle room.

 

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Bought 4 rollers with brakes and welded them to the bottom of the horses. 

 

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Jacked the car up and bolted both horses to the chassis! IMG_5500.JPG.e3c19e18b54ffeeb1a17618d779a9224.JPGIMG_5508.JPG.fa99d37aba7fc26c05b8a044575913a8.JPGIMG_5505.JPG.5c4f51096688b703e9cec97b34611ee7.JPGIMG_5546.JPG.6f0ef31bea9b2ebe918320a7d0ed3295.JPGIMG_5541.JPG.94f5eed4f540333d8a7da0ae189242f0.JPG

 

 

Word of advice - Make sure your dolly is strong and welded properly or if you are using timber then it is bolted and braced well. The reason I say this is because your dolly will face its true test when you have to load the car shell on to a trailer to take to a body shop. Every connection will be tested as the shell is pushed and pulled up an inclined surface. Having a good dolly will be a real blessing. Trust me! You will really thank yourself cause its is so much easier to move the shell around. 

 

I also built a tiptisserie to help me flip the car cause I was sick of lying on my back to remove grime and other stuff off the bottom floor of the car. It was a lot cheaper then buying a rotisserie. After I finished using the tiptisserie I recycled the timber to build some shelves in the garage.

 

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18 months later the car is still on dolly and painted and I can get under neath really easily too cause my car is about 800mm off the ground too. Have a think about how high you want the car off the ground, size of rollers, how you will fasten the connections. Use nylock nuts where possible etc.IMG_6301.thumb.jpg.d4e0e69a99713e8b68e5b011878d77b4.jpg

 

Hope this helps. All the best.

 

Raj

 

 

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Barney rigged this up for the 2000CS which shares the same front subframe as an '02, and the rear is almost the same. It's made with galvanized UniChannel/Strut with large steel wheels and casters, with two old subframe mounts welded to the channel in back. It works great and plenty stout. 

 

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Ed

 

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Rapandi both of your solutions are awesome!   If the sawhorses were mounted to the subframe mount points, what was the tiptissorie mounted too?   

 

I love the rotisserie idea but I am not planning to completely strip the interior of the car and side glass will be staying, I think.   

 

So far the scariests thing about all this is the timing.  I need to have the car oin the road for the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix in July!  (Aaaagh!) 

 

The unichannel stuff is intersting.  I wonder if large sized 80/20 would be strong enough.....we do crazy things with it in robotics.     

Edited by Hodgepodge

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8 minutes ago, Hodgepodge said:

Rapandi both of your solutions are awesome!   If the sawhorses were mounted to the subframe mount points, what was the tiptissorie mounted too?   

 

I love the rotisserie idea but I am not planning to completely strip the interior of the car and side glass will be staying, I think.   

 

So far the scariests thing about all this is the timing.  I need to have the car oin the road for the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix in July!  (Aaaagh!) 

 

The unichannel stuff is intersting.  I wonder if large sized 80/20 would be strong enough.....we do crazy things with it in robotics.     

At the front I mounted the tiptisserie to a set of brackets which attached to the frame rails. Just like how the front bumper brackets attach to the rails. The rails are very stiff to take a torsional effect.

 

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At the rear the tipptisserie connected to the diff housing brackets. They are stout. I didn't attach to the rear bumper brackets because I was worried they will not be strong on a roundie. 

 

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