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Rear Disc Brake Conversion


doza59

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sorry, I'm confused, but is the Ireland kit a pure bolt on kit or does it also require machining of the hub.  Or what's required to install on my car, which is 74 non-tii.  Thanks!

Bob

BMWCCA #4844 (#297 of The 308)

1974 2002 Sahara, MM 2400 Rally engine, MM 5 speed and conversion

1976 2002A Anthracite parts car

1991 525i AlpinweiB II

2002 330ci AlpinweiB III

2007 530xiT Titanium Silver

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Sorry if I am creating a big loop of confusion with my questions.

 

The $550 Ireland kit in this thread bolts on, but it requires that you remove and turn down the OD of the hub so it fits inside the hat of the disk supplied with it.

 

Ireland also sells a Wilwood kit for $1100 that comes with super sexy parts, and the disk for that kit does not require that you turn down the hubs.

 

The disk in the Wilwood kit is bigger, and has a different offset than the one in the $550 kit.  I want to upgrade to rear disk, but I don't want to machine the hubs, and I also don't need the very expensive calipers and fittings of the Wilwood kit. 

 

It's turning the hubs that is more of a pain for me, so I would like to avoid it. My question is if I can get the $550 kit, but upgrade the disk to the same one supplied with the Wilwood kit.  I can then fabricate my own bracket to mount things, and it will then truly be a simple bolt-on.

 

Jose

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thanks, got it now.  have always liked the sexiness/cleanliness of 4 wheel disk brakes.  But I too don't want to machine the hubs.  Am interested in how this thread develops, although I have no bracket fabrication skills.

Bob

BMWCCA #4844 (#297 of The 308)

1974 2002 Sahara, MM 2400 Rally engine, MM 5 speed and conversion

1976 2002A Anthracite parts car

1991 525i AlpinweiB II

2002 330ci AlpinweiB III

2007 530xiT Titanium Silver

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The idea of turning the hubs instead of the rotor gained popularity from the thought that if you needed a new rotor on a road trip you could use a off the shelf rotor without modification and be on your way but you can turn the inside of the rotor to fit and and if the unlikely event you need a rotor on the road it would need to be turned to fit but the V/W system has proved over the years to be very reliable and not hard on the rotors at all. 

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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Oooh .... thanks for making that point AceAndrew.  That would most definitely make the answer to my question a "no".  Gotta be a solid disk to work with the VW caliper. 

 

Sounds like buying the VW kit and turning down the hub is the best solution.

 

Jose

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ALSO, Ireland offers a Turndown service for the hub as part of the purchase, it was painless for me. I handed them my hubs and they handed me the Modded hubs.

 

not to mention VW golf rotors will always be readily available with pads for cheap

 

 A few cars ago I installed a set of Alcon brakes, I was absolutely shocked when I went to replace the brake pads at $385 a pair 

 

to add an additional thought 

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I don't take myself or opinions Seriously

My 4th 2002 and the first set of Square Tail-Lights

See the 4 versions of my 2002 project here: SoCal S2002 | Facebook

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22 hours ago, chargin said:

 

Not as Sexy.......Big ISSUE for many 

 

Bring The SEXY

83C2929E-2443-4A5B-BAFD-5A4299ED62CC.thumb.jpeg.5fe059ce0f8b25b197b7cd912ff81a89.jpeg

 

While I would normally agree, the calipers being on the bottom really bug me.  I know it's fully functional, but it just doesn't look right to me.

John Baas

1976 BMW 2002

2001 BMW M5

My Blog!

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On 3/10/2018 at 12:56 PM, DaHose said:

Sorry if I am creating a big loop of confusion with my questions.

 

The $550 Ireland kit in this thread bolts on, but it requires that you remove and turn down the OD of the hub so it fits inside the hat of the disk supplied with it.

 

Ireland also sells a Wilwood kit for $1100 that comes with super sexy parts, and the disk for that kit does not require that you turn down the hubs.

 

The disk in the Wilwood kit is bigger, and has a different offset than the one in the $550 kit.  I want to upgrade to rear disk, but I don't want to machine the hubs, and I also don't need the very expensive calipers and fittings of the Wilwood kit. 

 

It's turning the hubs that is more of a pain for me, so I would like to avoid it. My question is if I can get the $550 kit, but upgrade the disk to the same one supplied with the Wilwood kit.  I can then fabricate my own bracket to mount things, and it will then truly be a simple bolt-on.

 

Jose

y'all know what i put my M2 through on track.  i have that rear wilwood kit.  while it is cool looking, get the vw conversion instead.  why?

 

wilwood..

-rotors are really expensive, and not commonly available.

-the calipers are NOT rebuildable.  if you have an issue with one like i did, you have to buy another whole caliper.

-changing pads is a major PITA.  the piston needs to be screwed back in under pressure, and there is no access to do it.  see my build thread for what i ended up doing.  drilled a hole in the caliper for access.

-ya just don't need vented rotors in the back of these cars.  there is no advantage in this application.

-they use the exact same brake pads as the vw caliper.  there is no advantage to the wilwood caliper.

-the caliper is huge, and just barely (seriously, just barely) fits inside 15in wheels.

 

vw..

-proven kit

-cheap parts, and replacement parts.

-can get rotors anywhere.

-turning down a little off the outside of the hub is just not a big deal.

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2xM3

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thanks Marshall, nice synopsis.

 

so if I go with the VW kit and then later wanted to restore my back brakes back to stock, do I just replace the hub?  Are hubs available?  Looking at realoem.com, it's not clear to me which part is the hub.  Can someone enlighten me please?  Thanks!

Bob

BMWCCA #4844 (#297 of The 308)

1974 2002 Sahara, MM 2400 Rally engine, MM 5 speed and conversion

1976 2002A Anthracite parts car

1991 525i AlpinweiB II

2002 330ci AlpinweiB III

2007 530xiT Titanium Silver

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To add to this-

 

-Marshall's right.  Solid rotor in the back of racecar has no ducting, and is not working hard.  Rear trailing arms respond well to being as light as possible.  ya don't NEED vented rotors back there.

 

-when I put discs on the back of the raceycar, I looked for a rotor that would work without the hub being turned down. 

The Saturn SC-1 front vented rotor fits up very nicely.  I did not use it, as it is bigger in diameter than the front rotor (illegal in class)

and it's just not needed (becayse raceycar.) 

I would guess that it would require 15" wheels.  Because the rotor OD is pretty big to start.

But it fits the hub and trailing arm.  One would need to find a caliper that would work (I didn't bother) and probably make a bracket for it.  But it's a common thickness

(20mm?  22mm?  I forgets)  so it won't be impossible.

 

- If you are into this kind of thing, you can turn down the hub with an angle grinder.  It'll take a while.  It does NOT have to be a precision job.

It would probably take less time to do it this way than taking the rear trailing arms apart, even if you took the time to make a bit of a guide to help hold the grinder.

You would want to go slowly so as to not overheat things.

 

t

constructively

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"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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