Healey3000

It takes ten pumps of the pedal to start

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Hi,

 

I've had an on-going issue with long cranks after overnight sitting.  Carb is rebuilt, check valve added to the fuel line and the little sleeve at the tank outlet and flex line have been replaced.

 

One day, out of sheer frustration, I pumped the gas pedal multiple times, instead of the two pumps I normally do to set the choke.  Wouldn't you know, the engine fired right up and sustained itself.  Normally, it acts fuel-starved - fires immediately and shuts off after a second or two.  Rinse and repeat, to get it to sustain.

 

I've been using this method now for a while and it always works.  Today, I pulled off the air cleaner and watched as I pumped the throttle, thinking that perhaps fuel does not show up until several strokes of the accelerator pump.  Everything is working as it should, with fuel squirting out at the first stroke.  The question then - why does it take so much priming of the intake tract to get going?

 

Thanks!

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Did you have to open the choke to see the fuel squirt, or was it already open?

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I'm still new but I had issues with starts before so did a lot of reading.  If you feel the problem is that the car isn't keeping enough fuel for the next start, I was told it is likely that all the fuel in the carburetor bowl is getting evaporated off.  To fix this, you have to adjust the carb float.  Another often recommended fix is a spacer below your carb.  Good luck!

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36 minutes ago, allbim said:

Did you have to open the choke to see the fuel squirt, or was it already open?

The choke was open but I also held it open to see the fuel.  When I decided to crank it over, a push of the pedal engaged the choke and it closed.  Fast idle works well so I feel the choke mechanism is correctly adjusted.

 

26 minutes ago, mataku527 said:

I'm still new but I had issues with starts before so did a lot of reading.  If you feel the problem is that the car isn't keeping enough fuel for the next start, I was told it is likely that all the fuel in the carburetor bowl is getting evaporated off.  To fix this, you have to adjust the carb float.  Another often recommended fix is a spacer below your carb.  Good luck!

There must be plenty of fuel in the chamber since pumping the pedal produced fuel immediately.  There was enough for the ten squirts I gave it, too.

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Fuel + Compression + Ignition. 

 

How’s your ignition?

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Ignition, Electrons don't like the cold and if any connections related to starting/ignition are oxidized or have higher than normal resistance, the cold magnifies the poor connections.

Matt

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The issue is unrelated to ignition or timing.  It always fires right up, with barely a bump to the starter.  The problem is, it runs out of fuel right away.  After a few cranks, it seems to have a steady flow of fuel and runs happily.  After all, if ten pumps makes for reliable starting, it has to be fuel starvation, not ignition or air.

 

But, since you asked, new plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor.  Crane electronic ignition.  Blue coil with ballast resistor removed.  Valves adjusted to spec, timing is on the ball, so to speak.

 

Good thoughts, though.

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7 minutes ago, HBChris said:

Fuel must spray into the throat, if it dribbles from the Accel pump it isn’t enough.

True.  It was difficult to tell what the quality of the "squirt" was but I'll pay more attention to that next time.  I did replace the accelerator pump when I rebuilt the carb.

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you have not described the type, condition or age of the fuel pump yet.

 

and where is the check valve?  at the tank?

 

condition of the fuel lines?  age?

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15 minutes ago, Healey3000 said:

The issue is unrelated to ignition or timing.

 

how many degrees advance at idle?

how many volts when cranking?

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10 minutes ago, mlytle said:

you have not described the type, condition or age of the fuel pump yet.

 

and where is the check valve?  at the tank?

 

condition of the fuel lines?  age?

The fuel pump is the one item I have not replaced, although I did redo the mounting to stem an oil leak.  No idea of age.

 

The check valve is between the tank and the plastic fuel line.  I replaced that short length of braided hose with new rubber.  The plastic line looks fine but I've also replaced all lengths of hose under the hood.  Fuel filter looks full as well.

5 minutes ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

 

how many degrees advance at idle?

how many volts when cranking?

I have not measured advance at idle since I set timing with the ball as per the manual.  But, I must reemphasize, the engine always starts. 

 

Haven't measured voltage while cranking but the battery is a relatively new AGM.  The thing cranks over like a banshee with that smaller e32 starter.  Same point as above, it has no trouble starting, hot or cold.  Even after sitting all day, it starts and sustains just fine.  Overnight or longer, is a different story.

 

Thanks!

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mine is behaving similarly, so I am hoping to learn from your success here.

 

I have wondered whether it takes a few cranks for my fuel pump to generate pressure.

thought of putting a gauge inline and watching, when I first try to start it.

 

do you have a way for the pressure to bleed off, when the engine has been shut down?

(original diverter valve did this)

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Had a similar problem with an old Porsche. It was the Weber cold start. I dleleted it and changed the mechanical pump to an electric one (with a Revolution relay). I am new to the 2002, but see what those who know have to say.

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I was having an ignition issue, with no spark despite a good battery and an exuberant starter. That was a bad block ground.

 

YMMV.

 

Look again at the accel pump action. It should be quite a healthy squirt.

 

Cheers,

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