323IJOE

HELP - Stubborn 02 - STARTED!! video on second page.

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Almost got it started, dizzy popped out so I have to get it back to TDC and reinstall that BUT, im also having some backfiring out of the carb and nipples on the intake manifold. I have no vacuum lines hooked up right now and assume that is part of the problem. Can someone help me out with where the lines on these nipples are supposed to go to.

 

IMG_20180302_141333

 

Starting form Left to Right 

1) large nipple

2) small nipple 

3) Manifold under Carb

4) Carb Base

5) small nipple coolant hose   

 

Car is a 76 USA, de-smogged, running a Carter electric pump and IE Tii Mechanical Advance dizzy.  Any help at all to get this running would be awesome, trying to get it running before I leave for vacation on the 9th

Edited by 323IJOE

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1) vacuum hose to brake booster

2) plug

3) plug

4) vacuum advance on distributor

5) plug

 

If you are trying to start the engine with all those vacuum leaks it probably will not. If it does start it will run really poorly. Plug them in the correct way and it should start.

Edited by Mike87
add additional info

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#4 is the Ported Vacuum source on the Weber for the vacuum advance pod on the dizzy.

Since you have the Tii mechanical dizzy (no vacuum advance)....then plug this nipple.

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1 hour ago, 323IJOE said:

some backfiring out of the carb

 

Not sure if it ever ran with your current plug wire hookup, but double check they are connected in the right firing order. 

 

That was my bozo mistake after getting the car all back together after fresh engine rebuild. I had serious backfire (real flames) out of the carb and because of the way I had the wires attached, it was trying to run on 2 cylinders. Amazingly it ran, but shook like hell and had violent backfiring, especially if given a bit of throttle. 

 

Randy 

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THANKS!! I picked up some plugs, and I'll double check the firing order tomorrow. Other than that I have power, Im getting fuel, I have spark, so i think its either the vacuum problem or firing order/timing. 

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Uh, like Randy mentioned, it happens.  I literally pulled the cap to physically see which way the rotor would spin when I hit the key.  It ran a bit smoother after I changed it around.  I didn't blow flames out the carb (that would be awesome, kinda) but I did blow off one of the plastic intake tubes on the tii...

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I see that you have a manual choke on your Weber, but I don't see a cable connected to it.

That will affect its ability to start.

 

This is sort of off-topic, but it looks like the 19mm lock nut is missing from your steering box adjustment screw.

Better find one of those and see that it is adjusted properly.


Tom

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1 hour ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

I see that you have a manual choke on your Weber, but I don't see a cable connected to it.

That will affect its ability to start.

 

This is sort of off-topic, but it looks like the 19mm lock nut is missing from your steering box adjustment screw.

Better find one of those and see that it is adjusted properly.


Tom

 

Yup noticed that was missing today too, Im fairly certain have a spare in a rebuild kit, and you are right no cable on the choke yet it's very much a "manual" choke right now :D

 

First time it's cranked in 23 years but there is still quite a bit of work to do 

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Worst case scenario, plug all of the vacuum leaks on your carb/manifold. The connections to these are not essential to starting your motor. I would say that getting your dizzy properly reinstalled and at least roughly timed should be your first order of business.

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Update. Capped all the vacuum lines .Set the engine back to TDC, the rotor was pointing at 9oclock (12o clock being the firewall) IE instructions say to position it at 4 o'clock, that's how I had it set when I first cranked it and almost got it.

 

Still getting fuel, but now there's no spark, which was there last night when I called it quits. I'm a little concerned about having fried the ignitor in the dizzy by trying to crank it over X amount of times. ie says the fastest was to kill it is leaving key ON without engine running which is essentially what I've been doing trying to get it to start.

 

Any suggestions on how to test it? 

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I'm sure I'll be corrected shortly, but it seems like when the engine is at TDC on compression on 1, the the rotor should be pointing at the plug on the cap which has the number 1 wire, regardless of anything else...

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42 minutes ago, irdave said:

I'm sure I'll be corrected shortly, but it seems like when the engine is at TDC on compression on 1, the the rotor should be pointing at the plug on the cap which has the number 1 wire, regardless of anything else...

 

makes sense, I think it lined up that way anyways once I dropped it in. 

 

SO. I did a very jerry-rigged coil test, Power wire going into the coil. Coil wire off of the dizzy, ground wire on the coil, tap the ground wire to a ground while holding the coil wire close to another ground point, I have inconsistent and VERY little output on my coil. So I'm assuming its bad, which sucks because I bought it brand new and cant return it now. 

 

Also found some info on the forum about IE dizzy ignitor being a pile of crap so I went ahead and ordered a Hot Spark 3BOS4U1 ignitor kit. as well as a Pertronix flamethrower coil which should be here in a few days. Hopefully this makes a difference, I don't know why else I wouldn't be getting spark. All the wiring is solid and brand new. 

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Im doubting it too now, Its a Bosch Blue coil, Ohm reading across the coil from positive terminal to negative is 3.4 and from output to either terminal reads 8.3 - 8.5, So output is a little under what it should be according information on the web. 

 

so that leads me to believe the ignitor is shot. Anyone else switch out an IE ignitor for the hot spark? or better yet anyone have a IE dizzy with the rotor glued onto the shaft?  

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Put a test light across the black and red wires. If it flashes when cranking the ignitor is working. 

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