bluehills2002

What is the current thinking on ordering ignition keys using code?

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There are a number of posts on this topic, some going back many years.  I have my key code and would like to order an ignition key--has anyone recently found a locksmith who still does this sort of thing, or is keys4classics.com my best bet?  I believe I saw a post recently of someone obtaining keys in southern New Hampshire (which is near me), but I cannot locate the post.    

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Four years ago I ordered a new key, by original key code, for my ‘73.  I was buying it from BMW and I had to show a title so that they knew it was for a car I actually owned, rather than a car I intended to steal.

 

It arrived within 2 weeks.  It would open the right door — with some jiggling — but neither the left front door nor the ignition: I suppose the tumblers had worn, effectively changing the locks.  My car's original key, with codes, works on both doors and the ignition.  I took the brand new key to a locksmith who ground it to match my well-worn original keys.

 

I didn’t need a coded key.  I just needed a blank!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited by Conserv
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The other problem with ordering by code is knowing for sure that in the last 45+ years that the tumblers have not been changed.  Like Steve said wear can also be a problem

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I did it. The new keys worked fine. As mentioned title and license are required. I had the original keys which I knew worked. Put the originals in a drawer and have used the BMW replacement keys for many years since. Are you without any keys? If you have a key most locksmiths with have the blank to cut you a new one. Cheaper and easier than a set from the dealer. Alex

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If you're lucky, the little sticker with the key code on it will still be stuck to the back side of the ign switch, under the steering column housing.  There are (or were) also stickers on the door locks, but you have to remove the upholstery and the door handle to get to 'em, and after all this time they've probably fallen off.  

 

But if you're sure the door and ignition locks are the same, you can remove a door lock (easier than the ign) and take it to a locksmith.  He (or she!) can make you a new key even without the code.

 

mike

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My 67 showed up without any keys. I removed the trunk lock and passenger door handle to see code. Sent codes to E-bay seller rfturado1 Keys for Classics. Keys showed up 4 days later and work perfect. Ignition and door lock the same.

Good luck

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My ignition and door locks are different.  This is not typical?

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2 hours ago, irdave said:

My ignition and door locks are different.  This is not typical?

 

Yep, not correct.

 

You can pull the door tumblers and stick in your ignition key to see which wafers are blocking the tumbler rotation, and either remove the offending wafers, swap them or sand them down.

 

(If you remove all the wafers, only you will know that any ignition key will unlock the door!)

 

Cheers,

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2 hours ago, irdave said:

My ignition and door locks are different.  This is not typical?

 

Something has been changed, Dave -- I can't say what.  The cars came from the factory with two sets of two different keys: (a.) one key for the ignition and doors; (b.) one key for the luggage compartment.  A lot happens in 40+ years!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

 

Edited by Conserv

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I suggest you identify a Locksmith in your neck of the woods with an InstaCode controlled key cutter.

 

Give the Smith your code and existing key to check for a match. If they don’t match you’ll have some choices to make.

 

The InstaCode software identifies proper key blank options to use when you are ready. 

 

Just as a point of reference I paid: 

$10 for Cutting and the blank

$40 for Rekeying an ignition cylinder to match my doors.

 

It took the Smith about 1.5 hours to tear down, rebuild and key the new ignition cylinder.

 

If your local Smith says the (BMW, Huf, Neiman, Normbau) ignition cylinder is sealed and can not be rekeyed, move on to another Smith. 

 

Goodluck

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. . .to follow up on this thread I started:  I called a few locksmiths in the Boston area and struggled to find someone who could grasp that 2002 was the model, not the year.  I found one guy in East Boston who claimed he could cut me a key for $40.  I gave up and ordered from Ebay seller rfturado1 as suggested by pdx above.  The key arrived in three days and works great.  It appears to be aluminum, not steel.  Total cost with shipping:   $23.56 ($10.61 for the blank and $12.95 for the cut).  Thanks pdx.

 

DSCN3744.JPG

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Great, I'm glad that worked out for you.

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