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Rear axle nut stuck


evo42

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I've read all the threads, didn't see anywhere the same prob I'm having.  I have the 36mm socket and 42"+ of leverage and regardless of foot-on-brake and wheel chocked with all four wheels on the ground (concrete) the wheel/tire spins when levarge applied.  I stacked 120lbs of salt on the boot and still slippage.  Been spraying with PB 2/3xs per day for last week. I have the Empi 36mm bar extension but it doesn't bite 100% due to lug studs. I Have a 12pt 36mm socket. 

I don't have experience nor equipment to support high-heat solutions.  Pic with wheel-off was a try with full bite with empi tool and foot on brake.  Slips with wheel on/off.

 

Im half venting and half wondering if anyone has beat this devil and could share some non-heat/safe-heat solutions.

 

any help/direction is appreciated

 

 

IMG_1309.JPG

1971 2002

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Persistence.

It took me about 30-40 minutes on each nut. Trying many different things the whole time but what finally broke the camals back was just keeping at it. I used a 48" breaker bar and an electric impact from harbor freight. Rocking the trigger from reverse to forward for a while.

I wish i had better advice for you... You'll get it.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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I have heard of people getting in their car and either backing up or going forward slowly with socket and bar attached to the nut.  I am not suggesting you do this because you may not see what is really going on but maybe someone can stand by and guide you while you are  rocking the car. 

You can take hth advice.....as Archimedes said "give me a lever long enough and fulcrum on which to place it and I shall move the world"

 

Abe

Edited by abe2002tii
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When I don't have big torque air tools, I go old school with my 3/4" ratchet (you could also get a breaker bar) with 1/2" reducer for my sockets, and a pipe extension. 

 

To get the nut off, find a 2 or 3 foot long piece of 1/4" or thicker flat bar, drill it so it slips onto two wheel studs, and grind a relief so the socket can go on as well.  Use your floor jack to hold the end of the flat bar still, and use the GIGANTIC tools to break the nut loose.

 

Jose

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Thanks everyone. I've got all the leverage ( 42"+) it's just not going to the nut but slipping the rear wheel/tire with all four wheels on the ground if I stand in it/apply pressure either down or up. It's like too much torque!  

 

I've been reading about torque multipliers and reducers, does all that math work when trying to loosen rather than tighten? 

 

I'll keep at it Bibs and thanks Jose for the idea of making a counter-lever.  Abe, I saw that on YouTube. Spooky but looks like it works! 

New day tomorrow, I'll try again....

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by evo42

1971 2002

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try taking a small ball peen hammer and tapping on each face of the nut.

you can smack it pretty good with a small hammer, staying away from the edges.

sometimes the shock will break things free.

then put your cheater back on and jump on it.

if the wheel is turning, wedge a block in under the tire.

a wedge of firewood works well.

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for adding confusion.  (3-28-2024)  

 

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If you have a piece of flat steel or some random scrap metal you can make a holding tool that you can bolt onto the hub. That's how I removed the crank bolt on my 540i when doing timing guides.

I tried 3 different impact guns with no luck and I was to cheap to spend $89 on a holding tool I would only use once so I made my holding tool out what I thought was some sort of battering ram but I have since learned was actually a hitching post for horses. (for maximum horse power!)

 

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Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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7 minutes ago, Bibm5 said:

If you have a piece of flat steel or some random scrap metal you can make a holding tool that you can bolt onto the hub.

and this.  get a piece of 1in angle iron a couple of feet long.  drill two holes for two of the lug studs.  bolt it on the hub so that it is against the ground while you lever the wrench on the hub nut.  make sure you use breaker bar and extension that does not flex much.  the flexing aborbs the TQ you are need to knock the nut loose.

2xM3

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