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Steering box adjustment clarity needed


bianchini

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Hi All, 

 

I was trying to read through some articles and get some clarity on how to adjust my steering box and some extra "play" while driving straight in the steering wheel. I do have some questions: 

 

1- when trying to make adjustments to the steering box, you loosen the 19mm nut first and then you can use a flat head screw driver to adjust the screw in the center of the nut. The more you turn the adjustment screw in, the tighter the steering will get? Will this remove that "play" when driving straight (steering centered)?

 

2- If question 1 is a no to removing the "play," Would you then try to adjust the steering column from the nut behind the steering wheel? I read a little about it, but I don't understand what the purpose of this process is. 

 

3- If Q1 = no and Q2 = no , then what other options do I have to remove that "play" in the steering. I know the steering won't be as tight as new cars, but to me, there seems to be a little too much play...

 

Thanks and any other tips/ ideas are valued as well!

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If memory serves #1 will remove some play in your steering.  

 

Although, I'd confirm that all steering components are tight: Tie rods, pitman arm, center link, steering column guibo, etc. Any looseness could be transmitted to the steering wheel.  Adjusting the steering box is the last step.  IMHO.

73 Inka Tii #2762958

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What kind of play are you experiencing? Just too much back forth with the wheel while stopped?

 

The steering box can only be adjusted so far. Once that screw is flush with the nut you are out of adjustment. Is the top sticking up a few threads?

 

Have you changed your oil/grease in the box ever?

 

What is the condition of your suspension? Could it be something other than the steering box that's causing an issue? Tired bushings/ball joints, etc. 

 

Any further info would help someone diagnose for you. Post pics of the box if you have any.

mike tunney

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You may have other issues not related to the box itself.  There's a center track rod, two tie rods, and bushings that can also have issues that might cause your symptom.  Check the condition of the other components before just tightening the steering box will nilly (you can tear up the box if you over do it).  

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34 minutes ago, thinksound_mike said:

What kind of play are you experiencing? Just too much back forth with the wheel while stopped? correct. I can turn the wheel left and right a fair amount with no movement in actual steering. 

 

The steering box can only be adjusted so far. Once that screw is flush with the nut you are out of adjustment. Is the top sticking up a few threads? Yes. a few threads, but not a lot. I would assume just a few 1/4 turns until flush with the 19mm nut. 

 

Have you changed your oil/grease in the box ever? Just put in fresh oil last night. Started down the rabbit hole of trying to figure out what I could do to fix the play... 

 

What is the condition of your suspension? Could it be something other than the steering box that's causing an issue? Tired bushings/ball joints, etc. the rest of the suspension looks to be in good order. will have to confirm that again tonight. are there any particular "tests" to perform to just what kind of shape the components are in? 

 

Any further info would help someone diagnose for you. Post pics of the box if you have any. Will take some tonight. 

See responses in Red

 

43 minutes ago, Tdh said:

You may have other issues not related to the box itself.  There's a center track rod, two tie rods, and bushings that can also have issues that might cause your symptom.  Check the condition of the other components before just tightening the steering box will nilly (you can tear up the box if you over do it).  

 will have to do that tonight. my above comment to thinksound_mike i think would apply here too: any special tests I can do to determine what is in need of replacement? 

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1 hour ago, bianchini said:

are there any particular "tests" to perform to just what kind of shape the components are in? 

 

 

One test for slop in the the steering components is to jack up one wheel with the steering wheel in the locked position and attempt to move it back and forth horizontally.  Also try to move it vertically just to see if any slop you are feeling is in the wheel bearings and not the steering linkage.

BMWCCA  Member #14493

www.2002sonly.com

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Check the tightness of the (4) hex bolts that hold the steering box cover to the main body (of the steering box).  If they are loose, then your steering will be sloppy (BTDT).

 

Screwing in on the adjuster bolt moves the entire steering mechanism (roller) DOWNWARD.  Doing this too much may cause the pittman arm (bolted onto the bottom of the steering box) to come in contact with the control arm of the suspension.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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OK, in order to suss out your adjustment, you need to know just how much "free play" you have (OE steering wheel or smaller?), which is just the end result of mis-adjustment and wear. In a new car, there was never any slop. 1/4"-1/2" is generally what you see in older cars.

 

As others have mentioned, wear in the idler bushings, the ball joints, the track rod etc. all add to the slop, however many think it is solely in the box.  Specific to the box, a .001 excess in wear of the shaft bushings translates to something like 1/8" at the end of the pittman arm. (My notebooks are in the shop). This translates back up to the worm and roller and thus to the steering wheel.

 

How many miles are on the box? The reason I ask is generally boxes with 100K are in better shape that those with 250K miles. Boxes with galling on either the worm or the roller will exhibit some slop and / or a "hitch" as you turn throughout the range of the box. Sometimes that galling is right in the center of the movement and is perceived as the box being out of adjustment, but you can only tell if you take the unit apart.

 

Many think that there is only one adjustment on these boxes, but there are more. Not accounting for bushing and bearing wear, there are shims under the flat plate that constrict the ball bearing cups for the worm. If it is not properly shimmed because the bearings and cups are worn, then the worm can move back and forth which will allow the steering wheel to move in and out / and / or the roller to move the pittman arm. You need to have the tool to measure the tension properly as if it is too tight it will bind the bearings within their races; too loose and you have slop. One tenth of a mm is a big deal.

 

There is also a shim UNDER that threaded adjustment post that ties it to the roller shaft via circlip. Yes, that is an adjustment shim, but it only serves to position the roller with proper contact at the worm. Any slop, and the shaft will move up and down, also allowing additional axial movement at the steering wheel...."slop". You cannot adjust that out.

 

The bushing in the top serves as an added point to secure the roller in the event of wear (axially) at the lower bushings. Since it doesn't really get lubrication, they tend to wear too.

 

Also, the roller has bearings and needs to be shimmed correctly; otherwise there will be excess side to side movement which translates again to movement at the steering wheel.

 

Which brings us back to your question. The answer is that you need to check all your linkages involving the struts first and fix them. Depending on the year of the car, there were two sizes of idler bushings, so you need to find that out. Sometimes the exhaust will tend to melt them, so it is important to check them to see if they are cracked in both the plastic and the rubber.

 

Then, yes, you can get a little adjustment at the top screw, which centers the roller to the worm. You can bind the box if you are not careful and it should be tight enough to reduce the slop. But unless all the other things are attended to, there will always be some movement, and what you can tolerate is up to you.

 

HTH

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@Einspritz thanks for the detailed explanation. I am an amateur at best with getting into the very fine details/ options of where the issue(s) are. Summarizing though, it sounds like looking at the components of the steering box fully disassembled will be best to see what needs replacing. Also, looking at the remaining steering parts connected should be reviewed as well (ball joints, pitman arm, tie rod, etc). Is that correct?

 

One extra piece that maybe can help you experts is that there isnt any issue/grinding/chunkyness when turning left or right. Just when the wheel is straight, there is a good amount of movement I can have with the steering wheel and no actual directional (L/R) movement of the car. 

 

Assume the steering box is original to a 74 and probably has 100k+ miles on it (speedo is inaccurate to car). 

 

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

 

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OK. So we will assume that the steering linkage is fine ( I still say check the idler arm for play while the front is up off the ground), so, the next thing to distinguish is whether there is movement just at the box or grab either side of the #4 above and see if there is movement at that as well, which would indicate that the bolts are loose or the "rubber" is shot.....meaning there will be "ovaling" of the metal pieces within the rubber / fabric matrix.

 

And you said:....... "there is a good amount of movement I can have with the steering wheel and no actual directional (L/R) movement of the car. "

 

How much is that at the steering wheel? The reason I ask is if it is less than, say 1/2" you may be able to use the adjustment screw, whereas if it is 1-1/2" then you have many other issues at hand inside.

 

That said, try using the adjustment screw while you are moving the disc by hand and you can note the effects. The goal is to eliminate / minimize the slop without binding. If you get to that point, you can check if the box is binding by jacking up the front and turning through the full lock to lock. Or you can enjoy some very interesting steering response e.g. the wheel not returning to center when you are driving...: )

 

Remember too that you need to hold the adjustment screw with the screwdriver while you tighten the nut, otherwise the screw will move with the nut. Alternatively, if you note how far that is, then just back out the screw by the amount it moves and then tighten the nut, with the screw moving along with it.
 

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@Einspritz @thinksound_mike @jireland2002 @jgerock 

 

The steering box details:

- ZF 16 128 (top markings by the adjustment screw) -> Picture attached

- on the side of the steering box, it shows 16161 73 (the 73 is stamped in the circle) - > couldnt take a photo 

- I just checked and put the front end up... there is a leak coming from the steering column insert area into the steering box. - picture attached with red arrow as to where it is leaking. 

- I've added 2 videos - 1 from looking at the steering box showing the "play"

    - 1 from the steering wheel and the "play" 

 

- based on the leak... i am assuming a rebuild/refresh of the steering box is needed. Thoughts?

- all the other steering components are solid/in great shape. 

 

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Edited by bianchini
typo
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The other thing to check before you junk that box (noting that there doesn’t appear to be a bunch of spare adjustment on your screw available). Is the box centred when your steering is straight on? The box is only capable of being adjusted when properly in the straight ahead position and someone may have adjusted the track rods so that the wheels are straight when the box is not. 

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