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Door repair plate work?


dhr.vdw
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Hey hey,

So I wanna repair my right door, the whole is pretty good only the bottom is really really bad and far gone. I found the inner as well as the outer plate work repair sheets for a door via this site:

http://www.restoration-design.com/store/product/BMW410R

Now any recommendations for this site ? I must get this stuff to the Netherlands and they seem to be quite expensive compared to Walloth and Nesch (on where I did not find repair sheets on a door so far).

 

Has anyone here repaired his/her door with these kind of sheets and how did it go? Any other american sites with some good prices (+VAT and shipping?)?

 

Thanks,

 

JP

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Edited by dhr.vdw
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How does the outer part of the door skin look?  I think it may be better to make your own small patches.  It doesn't look too bad from your pictures.

 

I replaced the bottom door skin using the W&N patch on one of my doors.  The difficult part is that it shrinks at the seam due to welding, which pulls it in and causes waves as well.  Then it is very difficult to get to the back of the seam since it is behind the door beam (on 74+ cars).    I had to make some special tools to get behind it to work out the shrinking.    I also had some rust along the door bottom like in your picture.  It was fairly simple to make small patches and weld them in once the door skin was cut away.  I also media blasted  to get rid of all the rust. 

 

I guess my general rule is that if you can do small patches for your repairs you will be much better off.

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All the edges are like this actually... maybe I should try and do that indeed...trying to repair all the damaged spots myself. I'll try to.

 Didn't know walloth has them lol, I checked twice but I will check once more. Thanks!

I will blast the door later on again yeah. Just having a hard time getting the metal properly fold over.

JP

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When I was taking an auto body class at our local vocational school back in the 80s, I made new lower door skins for my '69 from cut down Camaro door skins (out-of-spec sheet metal donated by the local GM assembly plant).  Instead of continuously butt-welding the patch to the upper, original part of the door skin, I lapped the new piece over the existing one, and spot welded the two together with a spot weld about every inch or so.  No warping that way.

 

On the inside of the door, the existing skin lapped over the new piece so they were like shingles on a roof; that way water running down the inside of the door during a rain storm wouldn't puddle in the seam, causing rust.  Before buttoning up the door, I doused the lapped seam on the inside with plenty of anti-rust paint, and on the outside I chamfered the edge of the patch, then smoothed the joint with filler.  Fifteen years later when I stripped the door for a repaint, the seam showed no rust on the inside or outside.  

 

Worked for me

mike

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+1 for making patches
Are you able to buy a patch panel for the inner piece that's rusted through or just the outer skin? If you have to make the inner piece you might as well just fab it all. I made mine with only a bench vise and a hammer in just a few minutes. I think lap joints are the way to go. Make your part first and then use that to trace the cut onto the door. 734767a9e03f8e4147ab76e27fd1f152.jpgaff643e31b642f06bc72585323e179fb.jpgc81529dc49d758b366e24d84f1fe00d7.jpg45d0bdd490df2c6897ef38acb30dbf77.jpg5c3b6b9168e3531b9a42125c5520ed17.jpg958bbda4f78685755c9564cb0b0561bc.jpg24d2767929e90d91e76a5a05fe1720b1.jpg

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Mhh thanks guys!

Might as well make it myself then, thing is I tried to do what you did bibm5, thing is I was really having a hard time properly folding it over... might try and do it again.

If it won't work will still order the patch panels.

Think I will blast the door, set it in epoxy and then add this metal 'menie''(?)

 

Thanks JP

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Make your first fold along the vertical edge of the door then hold it over the door and align the folded edge with the vertical edge and then scribe where the bottom needs to fold (won't be square). Then cut an angle on the bottom side of the vertical folded edge starting from your outer scribe mark. Then put your piece into the bench vise and fold it back then give the edge a few whacks with a hammer to make it Nice and crisp. After you take it out of the vise put a piece of scrap where the edge is going to fold over to leave room for your inner panel to sit. Then tap it down with a hammer until it is overlapping the vertical edge flap. Then scribe your angle and cut corner off with a grinder. After that you should have an (almost) perfect patch panel! Sorry mine is a little sloppy... I just made it in about 5 minutes for this demonstration... e96751447875a6d958aaa90737ee29db.jpg0a53b2b266275154d4d668cf8d185dc3.jpgbf4ba681eab6898baed70dad220201eb.jpg1d6e7938a48559760370dba5b2ae7f19.jpged73b49b2442a9fddfc6fc2181301604.jpg4b93cc5c2f66f83c255fd17936888ff8.jpge940e5117dab0eaa555cf9f95a0e2b3b.jpgb97c830b38da658d2e4fa00a5c36365d.jpg218c0474759404009e7d673180699b19.jpg326dfc5ec78134faf97c18b8e526d6ed.jpg

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Oh well thanks!! Still much better than my first try haha. WIll do!
Ship the little plate u just made to me[emoji3]
Keep you updated!
JP
If you want it you can have it for shipping costs. I made it using the front edge of the passenger door as a template but I just held it against on both drivers side and passenger side both front and back corners and it works pretty good any where... You get me thinking... Maybe I should make up a bunch of these and offer them...

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3 minutes ago, Bibm5 said:

If you want it you can have it for shipping costs. I made it using the front edge of the passenger door as a template but I just held it against on both drivers side and passenger side both front and back corners and it works pretty good any where... You get me thinking... Maybe I should make up a bunch of these and offer them...

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lol it was a joke but when people pay for it, I mean why not... you got me wondering what shipping cost is in USA to Netherlands ? I got a mailbox in USA but that's so expensive with VAT etc..

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