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Heater valve help


aussie2002
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Hi all. I think I’ve built half a car in the time I’ve spent on this heater! I’m down to the final bit and the valve action is so tight. I’ve lubed everything, but it’s still tough. Any advice. I havnt rebuilt the valve itself. Just a clean. Do those blunntech valve kits make the action easier. Photo shown in fully open. Any ideas. Have a got this correct.

Cheers Aussie0216e6ae17184d8b97e8557312492f2188.jpg

 

 

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...and the fastener that holds the core to the valve arm should have a shoulder and a pair of

washers so that the fastener is free to turn with the cable core, NOT bend the cable as the

arm rotates...

 

And yes, a good de- crudding and loobe makes the valve turn a lot easier.

Often, it gets corroded, too...

 

t

 

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...and the fastener that holds the core to the valve arm should have a shoulder and a pair of
washers so that the fastener is free to turn with the cable core, NOT bend the cable as the
arm rotates...
 
And yes, a good de- crudding and loobe makes the valve turn a lot easier.
Often, it gets corroded, too...
 
t
 

Great pick up, thanks. [emoji3]


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+ 1 with Toby's comments.  

 

I think most of your resistance is due to the very visible kink in the control cable.  And if that's a early, all brass valve, dismantling and cleaning will be very helpful.  The rotating inner section is plastic on later valves so they're not as prone to sticking, especially if not used often.  

 

Just be careful when you remove the steel screw that holds the valve together.  They get stuck in the brass valve body (dissimilar metal corrosion) and it's easy to round the slot to the point where you have to drill the screw.  Replace the screw with a stainless steel one (it's 6x1mm IIRC) and you won't have that problem again...

 

cheers

mike

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+ 1 with Toby's comments.  
 
I think most of your resistance is due to the very visible kink in the control cable.  And if that's a early, all brass valve, dismantling and cleaning will be very helpful.  The rotating inner section is plastic on later valves so they're not as prone to sticking, especially if not used often.  
 
Just be careful when you remove the steel screw that holds the valve together.  They get stuck in the brass valve body (dissimilar metal corrosion) and it's easy to round the slot to the point where you have to drill the screw.  Replace the screw with a stainless steel one (it's 6x1mm IIRC) and you won't have that problem again...
 
cheers
mike

Great - thanks I fixed the kink and improved it. Now for the rest



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Aussie, re my PEX valve, I discovered a bit too late that there is another PEX valve with a smaller handle.  I had rebuilt an original valve which then leaked anti-freeze on my floor, and thought I'd do another rebuilt.  However, despite a few disadvantages, this PEX valve does the job well and doesn't need that delicate mounting set-up which drove me crazy.

FF

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