Broke Tii Alternator mounting bolt...how screwed am I?

[repoman]

So it finally cooled off today to a bone chilling 104 degrees...perfect weather for working on the car.  The alternator went askew, so I thought I would take a look.  Turns out the bolt that mounts onto the side of the block was missing, however, once I pulled the alternator, I discovered that the bolt was broken and most of it is still in the block.  I have about 1/4" to screw a new bolt in, which isn't going to hold.  I am sure this has happened to other tii owners.  Anyway to tap it with out pulling the engine?  Or any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[arminyack]

you should be able to take that bracket off, install a TIME sert or reasonable facimile thereof, and put it back on without too much hassle.

 

And this weather is BS. it was 90 degrees at 5:45 this morning, and is 95 degrees right now (6:45pmish) 

It is the end of October for crying out loud!!

[repoman]

I did remove the bracket to inspect...it seems a bit twisted/bent...need to compare it to another one...

 

Thanks for the TIme sert idea....I will probably end up doing that...hopefully, can hold it steady enough to go it straight enough....or room enough to drill....

Edited October 25, 2017 by repoman

[OriginalOwner]

I had that problem.  Just aft of that bolt hole, there is another bolt hole.  SO, I got a flat steel plate and drilled 2 holes that match those boss bolts.  Then I got a longer bolt for the front hole.  Then I set the plate in position:  the front of the plate sitting over & atop the alternator bracket.  For the front bolt, I used some JB weld to make sure it wouldn't move during vibration.  For the rear bolt I used some blue LocTite.  See picture below.

 

That flat plate held the back end of the alternator bracket in place for years and years and years.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

Edited October 25, 2017 by OriginalOwner

[Simeon]

Can't you just drill into the bolt and use an  Ezy out? (Says the armchair mechanic from behind his screen)

[OriginalOwner]

There is no room under there for a drill motor.  Heck, it's bad enough just trying to get a bolt in place.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

[repoman]

Thanks, Carl!  That gave me another idea....

 

I'm thinking of cutting the mounting bracket and having my son weld in a piece of metal to extend it to the next hole...whaddya think???

[OriginalOwner]

The definite advantage of my redneck fix is that you don't need to remove the alternator and bracket, then re-install everything.

 

However, if you go the extension route, be sure to add a hole so you can use both bolts to hold the alt bracket in place.  No reason not to.

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

Edited October 25, 2017 by OriginalOwner

[torquewrench80]

The first thing I would do is to probe the broken piece with a small screwdriver/awl/pick and see it is loose. You may get lucky. If not I would then get everything that prevented me from using a drill and an ez-out, like simeon already suggested. Is the steering box in the way? Remove the bolts securing it and let it relocate itself. You may have to help it a little, but it will move. You could also unbolt the left engine mount, put a jack under the oil pan with a block of wood between the pan and the jack and then lift the engine a couple of inches for more access. 

Edited October 25, 2017 by torquewrench80
additional notation.

[FB73tii]

Another option is to tow the car to a mechanic with an oxy-acetylene cutting torch and have them burn out the broken bolt. The bolt will melt before the cast block--I have had this done successfully once before. Then chase the bolt hole with a thread chasing tap to make sure the threads are clean.

 

Here's a few threads discussing various methods for bolt extraction, including oxy-acetylene:

 

Bolt Sheared into Cast Iron Block - How to Remove?

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154723

 

Using oxy/acet to "blow out" broken bolts in cast iron
https://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum/bangshift/tech-section/18399-using-oxy-acet-to-blow-out-broken-bolts-in-cast-iron

 

--Fred

Edited October 25, 2017 by FB73tii

[repoman]

1 hour ago, FB73tii said:

Another option is to tow the car to a mechanic with an oxy-acetylene cutting torch and have them burn out the broken bolt. The bolt will melt before the cast block--I have had this done successfully once before. Then chase the bolt hole with a thread chasing tap to make sure the threads are clean.

 

Here's a few threads discussing various methods for bolt extraction, including oxy-acetylene:

 

Bolt Sheared into Cast Iron Block - How to Remove?

https://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154723

 

Using oxy/acet to "blow out" broken bolts in cast iron
https://www.bangshift.com/forum/forum/bangshift/tech-section/18399-using-oxy-acet-to-blow-out-broken-bolts-in-cast-iron

 

--Fred

The torch might work...just concerned about it being so close to the oil pan, which is not cast iron.  May have to drop that first?

 

Also was thinking I could get a right angle drill in there to try and drill to try the EZ out method.  I estimate that there is approx. 1/4" of bolt broken in there, as I was able to screw a bolt in about 3/16"

[PaulTWinterton]

I know why that bolt broke.  It's an odd sized bolt (short) and if the next size larger is used it bottoms-out before the bracket can be tightened.   It feels tight but it isn't.  There is a lot of leverage on the bolt and the bracket will also create a horrible metal-on-metal racket if it's not tight.

 

I would seriously consider using an engine lift and raising the front of the engine 4" to get access to that bolt hole for extraction.  Bummer. I feel for ya.

 

 

 

 

 

[FB73tii]

I've never had luck with the screw type easy-outs, they just strip. Maybe because I bought the cheap ones . I have been meaning to pick up a set of straight flute bolt extractors (pic below), anyone try them to good effect?

 

If you are going to drill a pilot hole in the bolt I suggest making some kind of guide so that the drill bit stays centered on the bolt and does not wander off and damage the threads. A piece of small rod that just fits in the hole with a hole drilled down the center would work, or perhaps some type of metal spacer from the hardware store parts bins.

 

If you lift the engine for better access to the hole, don't forget to remove the distributor, or at least the cap, first.

 

Edited October 25, 2017 by FB73tii