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Car Lift opinions needed


Dudeland

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40 minutes ago, willys said:

I bought a maxjax years ago - watching the car go up in the air the first time was incredible,  all those years without a lift - why did I wait so long!

 

Dude I would be all over that, but I am renting now and already pushing what I should be doing in the garage.  I don't think I can swing something that big and having to bolt it into the floor. 

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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  • 5 months later...

I am reviving this thread, as I am at a point where I am sick of crawling around on the floor, and considering my own home lift options.  However, I am renting, and with the space we have, neither 4-post, or 2-post are viable options.

 

Of all the stuff available, this Atlas mid-rise scissor lift looks like a good option for $1800.  It lifts over 48" at the frame, and a little more with truck extensions.

 

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-TD6MR-Portable-Scissor-Lift

 

I have seen videos of people using them, and a rolling shop chair (which I have) is perfect for working under the vehicle.  It does have cross-bars that block some access to the center of the car, but it looks like all suspension, brake, and differential work can be done without any kind of impediment.  I figure if I just GOTTA have access the the complete underside of a car, I might be able to get some high lift, 10 ton jack stands and drop the lift out safely.  Rob Seigel seems to really like his Bendpak version.

 

http://thehackmechanic.blogspot.com/search?q=md6xp

 

 

There is also the possibility of getting a full rise scissor lift that runs on 220V (I would have to scavenge power from my dryer outlet), but it's $4000 even with a 20% discount.

 

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Atlas-SLP-9K-Full-Rise-Scissor-Lift

 

At that price, I don't know that the benefit of going a bit higher, and having the open center is worth it.  I do find a number of reviews from people who are really happy with their mid-rise scissor lift.  Anyone using a mid-rise scissor and have negatives I should be wary of?

 

Jose

 

Edited by DaHose
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I was thinking of access issues with the quickjack. Coworker suggested using Raceramps show blocks.  Raise the car with the quickjacks, drop the wheels onto the blocks,  then remove quickjacks. Plenty of access from either side. 

Steve J

72 tii / 83 320is / 88 M3 / 08 MCS R55 / 12 MC R56

& too many bikes

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22 minutes ago, SteveJ said:

Coworker suggested using Raceramps show blocks.  Raise the car with the quickjacks, drop the wheels onto the blocks,  then remove quickjacks.

 

If you don't have the ceiling height for a four post, this is a great substitute.  If you need more height than the QuickJack affords, use their additional rubber blocks or, defy death, and add treated 4x4 posts at the QuickJack lifting points.  I also regularly use the QuickJack when doing valve adjustments, etc.  because you can raise it to the height that gives good engine bay access without having to bend over the fenders as much.

 

That's all I got.  Just trying to be quick jack.

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BMWCCA  Member #14493

www.2002sonly.com

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The QuickJacks look like a fun tool to have, if you've not got the room for a real lift, but the cost vs height has always deterred me.  They rise something like 16" or so - equivalent to a typical jack.  Appreciating that 4 electric scissor jacks isn't quite as elegant, that 4 electric scissor jacks is $200 (see Jeg's Bully jack) and QuckJacks are $1500 is tough for me. 

 

A tall enough mid rise for the same price, that you could sit on a shop chair to work, is very inviting.  I've not worked on a mid rise, but a full lift is liberating and life changing.  Being upright is much better for access, getting tools, and your body than sliding around on the ground.  I suspect a tall mid rise is nearly as good.

 

On the electric scissor jack idea, some friends and I have kicked around the idea of wiring them to the same power and to one switch and build a jig in wood to position them.  You'd probably still want to set down on jack stands, but beyond that, it seems like a viable, cheap low rise lift.

Edited by g_force

Josh (in Dallas)

'72 tii

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Cool!  I have also thought about the electric jack approach.  Another option that raises the price bar is a single post lift.  They are about the same cost as a full lift scissor, I just don't know much about them.

 

Jose

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34 minutes ago, DaHose said:

Another option that raises the price bar is a single post lift. 

 

Don't single post lifts have a pretty specific concrete strength/depth requirement?  That seems like a pretty a (not insurmountable) hurdle.  You find lots of threads on the Max Jack and folks modifying their garage floor for those.

Josh (in Dallas)

'72 tii

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Hmmmmmm......   I did just find a couple threads that mention both a need to anchor, and issues with leveling out a single post.  NOT what I would like to hear.  Sound like a single post is not the way to go for me.

 

Everything keeps pointing me to a mid rise scissor.

 

Jose

 

 

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I think I have made a decision of what I am buying, and there are two big reasons that stand out.

 

First, scissor lifts need to open 6-12 inches before you put real load on them, otherwise the pistons don't have enough leverage and cannot lift to their full rating.  That is a particular issue with low, heavy vehicles, so it is important that a scissor lift go as high as possible.  The TD6MR lifts to 48", and up to 53" with the truck adapters on the lift arms.  The mid-rise, open center lifts on the market all seem to go to just 38" at the frame.  Also, I want to be able to roll around on a shop seat, and my little round one puts my head right at 50".  So I need every inch of lift height I can get on a mid-rise, which makes the TD6MR a winner.  Another thing I like is that with the smaller footprint of theTD6MR on the underside of the car, I think I would be able to use high rise, 2-ton jack stands to hold the car up and drop the lift completely out from underneath.

 

The second big issue for me is price.  I would really like to get a full rise, open center lift, but they are $5000 and I really can't afford that.  Even the mid-rise open center lift is still $2600.  The TD6MR is $1700, and with 4 high rise jack stands lands at $2K.  That is doable for me.

 

Looks like it's the Atlas TD6MR for me.

Jose

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1 hour ago, RenaissanceMan said:

I did TONS of research on this and this is best choice under 2k IMHO:

 

https://www.maxjaxusa.com/buy-purchase-maxjax-car-lift/dannmar-maxjax-standard-package.html

 

We have one here and honestly, it does everything you want and still stays portable. We epoxied the anchors in the floor for extra strength and it was all easy and worked great!

72'  2002 turbo build - under construction...

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I've been using the KwikLift for a number of years; very happy with it:

https://www.kwik-lift.com/products/kwik-lift/

Fits in my garage with a low ceiling, gives me more than enough room to safely work under my car.

I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone.

Best,

-Bob

-Bob
(current: 1972 Malaga 2002, VIN 2584644, build date July 26, 1972)

 

Previous: 1973 Sahara 2002 #2585896 (RIP), 1969 1600, 1971 2002, 1964 Triumph Herald convertible, 1965 Triumph Herald convertible, 1961 Triumph TR3A, 1967 Triumph TR4A-irs, 1959 Austin Healey 100/6, and about 10 other cars (most of which were quite boring)...

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10 hours ago, evil02 said:

We have one here and honestly, it does everything you want and still stays portable. We epoxied the anchors in the floor for extra strength and it was all easy and worked great!

I would have gone this route myself, but being that holes need to be drilled to mount it, and my house is built upon a post tension slab...so no drilling for me without a ground penetrating radar study of the garage floor!

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