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Steering box trouble


ingramlee
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Got the motor mount fixed and almost got the sub-frame reinstalled. The problem I'm having is getting the steering shaft all the way down onto the box collar. I tried wedging the lower pinch bolt open and pushing hard on the steering wheel but it simply wont go on any further. I am looking for suggestions & things to try. Should I try loosening the three steering box frame bolts or the subframe bolts? Also turning the steering wheel is much harder now. I obviously have something wrong.

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i just rebuilt my box and put it back in today.  with the box out of the car, i used  a rubber mallat to push that collar on. Then i reinstalled the box and connected the steering wheel to the guibo and steering box without much trouble.   The if you separate the collar from guibo maybe youll have space to lightly tap it?  

 

Also, might be good to replace the guibo while you're there... mine looked okay, bit ehen i pulled it off i could see that it was starting to wear out.

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5 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Oh looking at your picture you need to remove the lower bolt it will only fit through the notch in the steering box so it must be installed after the knuckle is in place.for the record the horn ring sits below the wheel in the steering wheel surround and provides a contact through 360' to the horn.  

 

 

THIS.

 

You need to remove the bolt as it's meant to key into the half-round relief when assembled. Also, It that doesn't solve it, I'd recommend taking a triangle file to all your splines on both the box, steering shaft, and collars to get rid of any rust or corrosion, then apply a light film of grease to keep further rust at bay. That's what I did with mine. There was so much rust/corrosion there they were a PITA to pull apart, requiring a 3-jaw puller to get free. 

Edited by 2002Scoob
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Ahhh... Starting to make a little sense.  Also, is it possible to have the shaft/disc rotated 180 degrees out?  I assume if the wheels and the steering wheel are aligned straight then the shaft and the box will be in the correct position to realign.  I marked the box and the shaft with paint for re-installation but the degreaser I used to clean everything while it was removed apparently removed my marks. Thanks fellas

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i dont think it should matter how the collars/disk are aligned as long as your wheels are strait, your box is centered, and your wheel is centered. But, for aesthetics I like mine all set up at 90 degree angles. 

 

Did you remove the steering arm off the bottom of the box  when you had it out?  If you didn't, you're likely fine, and you just need to eyeball the steering arm to be strait, your wheels strait, and your steering wheel straight on assembly.

 

When I rebuilt my box, I just made sure I assembled it  visually centered, installed the arm at the proper angle, and made sure not to rotate anything upon installation into the car. 

 

You can measure the amount of turns to each side and then use that to find the middle position too, I assume. 

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Keep in mind, if you just rebuild your front end, to the degree it appears you did, you're going to need an alignment.

 

I counted the number of threads I had tightened on each tie-rod before installation, then adjusted them with equal turns with the car on the ground to get them as parallel as possible. But even though I had everything perpendicular on assembly, after fudging around to get a drive-able driveway alignment my steering wheel ended up being cocked to one side. 

 

Taking it to a proper alignment shop remedied everything.

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Scoob,

 

I did not remove the steering arm from the box. I removed the bolts from the box and rotated the box out of the way on its arm so my friend could weld the cracked motor mount support. It wasn't a front end rebuild as the bushings are in good shape. I simply degreased and spray painted the subframe to clean it up a bit.

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On 10/23/2017 at 6:52 AM, ingramlee said:

Ahhh... Starting to make a little sense.  Also, is it possible to have the shaft/disc rotated 180 degrees out?  I assume if the wheels and the steering wheel are aligned straight then the shaft and the box will be in the correct position to realign.  I marked the box and the shaft with paint for re-installation but the degreaser I used to clean everything while it was removed apparently removed my marks. Thanks fellas

There is a mark on the worm shaft for centering the box. All the ones I have seen are barely visible, but has always been there, so if you don't see it, clean with a solvent only and keep looking, it's definitely there. The steering box must be centered for proper alignment when setting the toe-in. If the box is not centered you will end up with a drift to one side, even though the toe-in looks correct.

 

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