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dhr.vdw
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Hey so I wanted to repair this but as I really suck at making good shapes out of metal I have no clue how to fix this. My idea was I am just gonna weld a metal sheet from inside the car over the hole (in which the pin of this car is at) as I would not know what the purpose of it being open is.. any suggestions or things I did not think about before I am gonna make a new plate just over the hole inside the car?

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Those pins hold the rear suspension to the body and they are replaceable all though they seldom need it but I think you'll need to leave a hole so you can weld the tube to the new patch to retie it into the structure, as for making shapes start with a thin cardboard template (the cardboard on the back of a calender's is about perfect) cut and bend it into shape tape is allowed when you get it to fit flatten it out and transfer the shape to the sheet metal patch.

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What SoM said.

 

Start with clean metal sheet, make sure you have a big vice that's solidly supported, and practice bending things.

Use a smaller hammer with gentle hits at first- you'll figure out that there's a sweet spot that helps

form the bend without dimpling the metal (much)- and just practice.  Be ready to do it 2 or 3 times.

Also, don't be afraid to weld small patches together- the factory didn't, but the factory cared about how fast

the car went together.  You don't.

 

Clean the car's metal.  And then clean it again.  NO rust.  You'll have a hard enough time

getting good welds in there, make it as easy on yourself as you can.  You can weld to

metal that had rusted, and then was cleaned, but don't try to weld to anything that's not silver.

ALL silver.  And don't use flux cored wire.  That's for tractors.

 

Do duplicate the way the factory did it.  You can add metal- both pieces and/or thickness- to that if you want, but they had something

in mind for each piece.  So don't leave any out.  Just because...

 

Also, if that's a roll cage/bar I see in the background, and you're planning on leaving it,

now is the time to decide if this is a race car.  If it IS, or MIGHT BE, you have to decide what

rule set you're going to have to comply with, and find out what their cage rules are.

If you're not sure, leave the bar unattached from this repair- some classes/rule sets get very

particular about how a cage ties in.

 

If you're not planning on leaving it, get it out of your way!

 

Get started, and then post back as things go well/fall apart!

 

t

 

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I presume you're gonna use a MIG welder (vs a torch); regardless (but especially if you're using a torch) be mindful that the plastic fuel line is less than 6 inches away from the spot where you're welding.  You'd be smart to thoroughly wet a towel and place it over the exposed run of fuel line that is visible when the quarter panel upholstery is removed (along with the back seat and package shelf upholstery).

 

And have a second wet towel close at hand to smother any little fires that might start up from the sound deadening.  Finally, if you're using a MIG, cover the front seats (if you don't remove 'em) with a wool or cotton blanket to prevent welding sparks from making burn marks in your vinyl upholstery.  

 

After everything is all welded up, I'd check my rear window for leaks.  Rust in the spot(s) you pictured are usually from a leaking back window or side windows left open or unlatched.

 

mike

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I sent out some private messages related to this topic FYI. Any way, thanks Mike but I should have told (my bad) that the car is maximally stipped down right now so..do not worry about things getting damaged as there are none..lol. This picture makes it all a bit more clear. Second picture if the first metal sheet I made with metal hammers, it was kinda hard for me and I damaged it a while but it is gonna be part of a more wider wheel arch. It is gonna be a racer but I wanna make it a bit casual as I would like taking the car to the university from time to time or get my groceries in it haha!

Thanks,

 

JP

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