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Intermittent Spark from Coil - Need Assistance Please


EPK

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But it looks like it has four lobes on the center post.

Were the six cylinder distributors the same diameter as the four cylinder models?

 

Did someone put a four lobe post on a six cylinder distributor?

 

That'd be a pretty custom setup.

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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Jeff Schlemmer thinks that maybe the body was just exchanged and is willing to try to work on it.  But, I have to get it running for a rally and don't have time to send it off.  He doesn't have any in stock unfortunately.

 

I will try to shave down the insulator on the condensor that I have and order the proper one.  I'm traveling so it will be the end of the week before I know.

 

I'm very grateful for everyone that has helped to date.  

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Update;

 

No spark with the new condensor.

 

Is the following a clue to my issue? : There's one hot connection to the distributor itself that plugs into the condensor.  That wire has 12 volts when disconnected from the condensor and the key is in the on position.  There is no voltage to it when the ignition is off which makes sense.  When it's connected and the key is in the on position, it has less than 1 volt, barely anything.  When you try to start the car, that lead shows less than 5 volts when connected.  Is it because I'm pulling current away from it?  Hopefully, I didn't damage anything by testing this.

 

Does any of that help?  

 

I'm going to pull my hair out on this one.  

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Observations just described would make me think the ballast is still in the circuit when cranking.  That wire should normally have battery voltage (approx. 10V) on it when cranking.  Ballast circuit usually cuts the running voltage to about half minus whatever the coil resistance drop of running (about half of 13.5V if the alternator is working).

 

Edited by jimk

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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@jimk

 

I believe that it was due to the fact that the points were "open".  When closed, it reads over 12 volts as expected. 

 

 

I have a '75 and haven't changed any wiring.  After refreshing the engine, I briefly tried to get the car to fire with the original distributor but had the IE on hand so I put it in and it fired right up.  The only thing that I changed before installing the IE distributor was to add a positive and negative wires from the coil to the distributor as it has a red and black wire.  When I did this, I did not use the original wire that plugs into the condensor on the old distributor.  It wasn't used at all.

 

Is it possible that there is something else wrong with the distributor?  I set the points gap and the condensor is new.  Coil is new.  

 

ughhhh!!!

 

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For a points distributor, this check for spark might reveal some information:

1. Pull high tension coil wire out of distr cap.

2. Remove distr cap and roll engine by hand so points are closed.

3  Turn ignition to "run" but do not crank.

4. Point end of high tension coil wire to nearby spot on engine to see a spark.  Engine is best because spark plugs also ground to it.

5. Flick points open with a non conductor (finger nail works).

If you get a coil wire to engine spark when the points are opened, that shows power is to the coil and coil should be good.  It should lay a good spark.

Remember to turn off ignition

I've done this on a marine engine that was being brought from the dead and the wiring had been hacked.

Edit:   If it doesn't spark, also take a look at the small grounding strap from the points plate to the distr housing.  If that's not connected, the points do nothing.

Edited by jimk
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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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@jimk

 

Thank you.  I tried that.  I even tried it with a brand new Bosch coil.  It didn't spark and I'm confident it isn't the coil(s).  You may be on to something with the ground strap.  I will be hard at it again today trying to determine what is wrong with the distributor.  They aren't that complicated so it has to be something simple.

 

 

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The grounding strap appears ok but who knows?  It isn't obviously broken or disconnected.  The points open and close as they should and I checked the gap for the millionth time. 

 

I also tried running a wire directly from the center of the coil to a bolt on the valve cover, key on, points closed and then opening points with a piece of wood (chopstick).  I did this to eliminate the possibility of a bad (although new) coil to distributor cable.  Nothing.  I tried the new Bosch blue coil like this and still nothing. 12 volts at the positive side of the coils but no spark.   

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A variation on what Jim said:

 

Roll the engine over so that the points are closed, and meter across the coil.

You should see 12v on the +  side, and 0v on the -.

(If your car has a ballast resistor, you should see somethhing like 8v across the coil)

Use an insulated screwdriver to open the points, and you should see 0v across

the coil.  If you meter to ground, both + and - should be at 12v.

 

If that all works, meter the condenser- you should see something like .1 microfarad.

A bad condenser will cause a no- start, and they DO come out of the box bad.

 

hth

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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@TobyB

 

I'm 100% certain that my points are closed.  Given this, meter to ground shows that both the + and - posts of the coil produce 12 volts.

 

@ray_

 

Continuity is ok on the positive wire.  I removed it from the coil and condensor to check.

 

I'm curious what Toby has to say about 12 volts on both sides of the condensor.

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