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Engine Bay Rust/Paint/Cleanup Questions (Lots)


xr4tic

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I've got the engine out of my car and the engine bay needs some serious attention.

 

Here's what I started with:

20170921_191003.thumb.jpg.4e08b014e41777cf268ed5db4e8e1fc7.jpg

 

Here's what I've got now after removing everything and initial stab at cleaning:

20170924_191911.thumb.jpg.fcaae0742c580c982b4567d9ff528d25.jpg

20170924_191914.thumb.jpg.7a449ecf50226e74293753d5d1e15ded.jpg

 

Most of it is light surface rust that I can take care of.  I have two areas of concern.

 

If you supersize the last pic, you can see some holes in the cowl area above the fuel line entry and a small chunk missing from the frame rail below the steering shaft.  The frame rail under the floor pan is swiss cheese, but that's another discussion.

 

Besides those two areas, it looks worse than it really is, and should be repairable.  Main problem is I have minimal welding skills (read:  none), the frame rail will be a good test, it's nice and hidden too.

 

Now for the questions:

Rust removal - What's the best method for cleaning up the surface rust?  Flapper disk?  flat disk?  Something else?

What about for paint removal?  You can see the body and top of the inner fenders are a different shade of orange, it was re-sprayed (poorly) by a PO and I want to remove it before I respray.

Once I fix the frame rail, I'd like to coat the inside to stop/prevent further rust.  I see Eastwood makes something to spray the inside of a frame rail, has anyone use that before?

 

Paint - I only have a couple of warm weekends left for paint, I don't have a spray gun setup, so I need to rattle can this.  Any suggestions on what paint to use?  There's so much info out there it can make your head spin - epoxy, 2k, urethane, etch primer or not, 1 stage, 2 stage, what primer to use, what order to do it in, etc, etc

I do plan on using factory inka color, probably from paint scratch, or something similar.  I'm just unsure on what to put down as a primer/base and what clearcoat, if necessary, to use with it.  Brand recommendations would be nice.

 

Firewall - the padding is NLA/Backorder, any recommendations for a substitute?  Dynamat?  Leave it off?

 

Wiring - What should I use to re-wrap the wiring harness?  I need to fix a few of the wires, mainly the alternator power wire, it's pretty bad.

 

Misc - I'm rebuilding the pedal box, removing the battery tray to mount it in the trunk, all new brake lines, rebuilding the steering box, and will reinforce the engine mount.  Anything else to do while I have the engine out?

 

Thanks!

John Baas

1976 BMW 2002

2001 BMW M5

My Blog!

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I would drop the subframe to get better access for welding. The frame rail is only flat box sections so should be easy to cut and weld in patches. Do your self a favour and fix the full length. 

 

Since you are talking rattle cans as your only option can I suggest an alternative of brush painting or even foam rollers. Not ideal but may allow you to use better paint than the average rattle can. It would be good if you could mix up small batches of 2 part epoxy primer, as much as you can slap on before it starts hardening. This will make whatever you put on top last longer. After that, some kind of single part epoxy machine enamel mixed to an appropriate colour. 

 

If you are not literally stripping the whole thing down to bare metal, you will need to clean and sand the paint that does remain well so you have half a chance of getting anything to stick. I like to use strip-it type disks designed to be mounted on an angle grinder. Fiddly bits can be done by hand (I have a great air powered belt sander the size of your finger but... no air)

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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I would use clean&strip disc (Like Simeon suggested too) to get most of the rust off. You can then still go over the spots that have pitted rust with a wire wheel on your drill or angle grinder.

 

I suggest using a 2k epoxy as a base layer. I'm pretty sure you can get those in spray cans too although you can't store them after. You can then still go over it with a regular primer and finish of with color.

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The Duplicolor rattle can stuff will not hold up well under the hood.  Touch it with any kinda solvent (carb cleaner, etc...)  and it will wipe off.  

 

I'm with Simeon and drop the front subframe... it's simple and allows MUCH better access. 

 

You won't need to sand down to bare metal for touch up re-spraying; except in the rusty spots.  Wire wheel, flapper disc,  you pick.  Make it shiny and prime it with a quality primer.  Automotive paint suppliers can mix rattle cans of proper paint in BMW colors for you.  That would simplify things.

 

Ed

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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I like wire wheels for this kind of stuff. 

 

My engine bay is rustoleom rattle can. Luckily Rustoleom makes a dead on ringer for Charmonix called Heirloom White. It has held up well and i touch up areas with a rattle can every now and then if something gets scuffed.

 

Really depends on how close to a show car you are going for. 

 

Maybe something like this will get you close to Inka. Cant hurt to visit homedepot

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Painter-s-Touch-2X-12-oz-Gloss-Real-Orange-General-Purpose-Spray-Paint-6-Pack-249095/202058684

 

Can always throw a automotive clear coat over the rustoleam to make it hardier.

 

Definately put a etch primer or epoxy down before you spray the orange color.

P_20170608_153459_vHDR_Auto.jpg

Edited by Stevenc22
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1976 BMW 2002 Chamonix. My first love.

1972 BMW 2002tii Polaris. My new side piece.

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Definitely not a show car.  I was considering the Rustoleum Orange Enamel, a few have reported it's close to Inka, probably close enough for the engine bay.

 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-12-oz-Protective-Enamel-Gloss-Orange-Spray-Paint-214084/202056294

 

I may be having a change of heart on using just rattle cans.  $25/can for primer and paint plus how many cans I would need, I'd probably be at $200, and that's if I get good cans that don't sputter like a few reviewers reported (Eastwood and spraymax epoxy primers)  Pretty sure I can get a decent HVLP gun + paint for that price.

 

 

John Baas

1976 BMW 2002

2001 BMW M5

My Blog!

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I sprayed my old '75 a couple years years ago.  It's not difficult.  I used DupliColor and ended up buying a lot of those little cans.. (maybe 10-12).  Looked okay when it was done.  Sold it to a guy who later painted the whole car red... <_<

59ce78434f7bf_75underhoodIII.jpg.64ca89afa3e19cba49899389f9c2b463.jpg59ce784504604_75underhoodIV.jpg.773d9cf0dd6196ceb75ecb4ec7a243d4.jpg59ce78466e671_75underhoodVI.jpg.fe9806c5e3983f502cc4b94f612745e1.jpg

 

I'm thinking your Rustoleum will work out very well.

 

Ed

 

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'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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43 minutes ago, zinz said:

I used a sandable primer I bought from the local auto parts store... nothing fancy. Degreasing will be your biggest challenge.  

For degreasing an empty engine bay, would lots of Simple Green applied with a stiff parts brush followed with a power rinse using an electric power washer do the trick? Seems like it would be pretty clean afterwards.

Jerry

no bimmer, for now

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19 minutes ago, JerryC said:

For degreasing an empty engine bay, would lots of Simple Green applied with a stiff parts brush followed with a power rinse using an electric power washer do the trick? Seems like it would be pretty clean afterwards.

 

Maybe do that x 2 plus a wipe down with 'wax and grease remover' immediately before paint. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Simple Grun works well, but do not get any on your VIN tag.

It will take the black right off of it.

 

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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I don't remember the name of the product & it's not cheap, but NAPA sells a cleaner for removing oil, silicon, etc  prior to painting.  You might want to wipe down with it as last step before painting.  Counter guy at NAPA should be able to give you better guidance than I'm providing at this moment.

 

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