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jacking up car for transmission fluid + rear diff oil changes


caseywarren

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Hey all, 

 

I did a lot of searching and found a few different links about various jack points and where to place jacks. My search included finding these links (below) and I read through each thread and page thoroughly. 

 

I am planning to change my transmission fluid and my rear diff oil. It will be my first time jacking up this car and also first time changing these fluids. My question is this... what is the exact process for getting the car up on jacks. I have read that the factory points are weak, so to not use those. Then I have seen people using the subframe but I hear that can effect alignment. So what I am looking for is help via a step by step process of what to do... 

 

For the Font:

DO I raise the left front side of the car first via the subframe? or do I place the lift in the middle (and where) of the frame in the front, lift up and place both those jacks at the same time on the left and right of the subframe? 

 

For the rear: 

When I look at the rear subframe areas, there are bolts coming out, this is where one of the links says to put the jack but wouldnt putting it right on the bolt stress that point? 

 

Overall I am asking for some guidance on the best way to do this without damaging anything from the many pro's that are out there. 

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/BMW_2002/10-BASICS-Safely_Jacking_Up_and_Supporting_Your_BMW_2002/10-BASICS-Safely_Jacking_Up_and_Supporting_Your_BMW_2002.htm

 

 

Edited by caseywarren
1971 Nevada 
Casey Warren
Web //  www.mindcastle.co
 

 

 

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Without reading the many links supplied to address any contradiction, what I do (even though my jacking points are perfectly sound) is:

 

front: trolley jack to the middle of the front subframe to lift then jack stands either under the frame rails or under the hefty bolts / tubes that hold the control arms onto the subframe. 

 

Rear: trolley jack under the diff to lift and then jack stands to the cross beam of the rear subframe. 

 

Never had any issue with this, place any wheels that are removed under the floor pan to provide some protection if something collapses and generally try and keep the jack in place along with the stands if I don't need access for the job at hand. This way I can stand the collapse of any one jack stand. 

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rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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What Simeon said.

 

Tho I usually add a 2 x 4 or similar to the floor jack pad, mostly to get the car a bit higher. Be careful with your choice of stout wood...

 

Cheers,

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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I drive up on 2x4 flat or I can't get my jack under the car!

 

Anyone do anything secondary once up on 4 jack stands?  I always put some blocks under the wheels, frame rails, or emergency jack points just in case.  I knew a fellow that had a car fall on him and crush his chest, he had heart problems the rest of his life.

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I drive the front end up on ramps and then do what Simeon said for the rear.  Somehow, crawling under with just four jack stands gives me the willies.

 

I've toyed with making an arrangement using four ramps so that I can drive all four corners up.  The low-profile Rhino ramps seem to fit under the rocker panels (I think).

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3 hours ago, TobyB said:

If it falls off of 4 solid jack stands, your time was up anyway.

 

Really.

 

Unless you bought Horror Fright Jackstands...

 

t

 

I live in earthquake country (as do you!).

 

I saw first-hand the effects of the 1989 Loma Prieta shaker, with cars bouncing around on the road as if they were Matchbox cars.  Nope, four solid jackstands don't do it for me :-)

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Hey all, apologies for the late reply to all these. On a last min work trip. Got to read through all this on the plane. Thanks for all the awesome and helpful info. 

 

I ordered all the supplies / fluids from BavAuto. My plan is to do this when I get back into town. Cant wait. 

 

In the mean time... I still need to order a jack and some jack-stands. What are the best / safest brands to get? Anyone have links to ones they've used and been happy with?

 

Also, since I have no reason to remove the wheels I was thinking of stacking a bunch of wood flats under each one for added safety and protection while working underneath the car. 

 

Also, I do have two rhino ramps.. I did try this last week when I was at home, however they kept sliding forward on my garage floor when I tried to drive up on them. I have used them before with my Subaru Crosstrek, but it was outside on concrete so I guess the bottoms of the ramps had better grip...

 

I also got another set of no name brand ramps that are super high, however, they slid as well a bunch and I wasnt able to make them work... I also got them at Goodwill, so... yeah not going to put my life at stake having those as the only support. They do seem really nice and sturdy tho, they are just made of metal and slide like crazy on my garage floor. I couldnt even make 4 inches up them without the wheels pushing them forward. Weird. 

 

 

1971 Nevada 
Casey Warren
Web //  www.mindcastle.co
 

 

 

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Not sure of the exact design of your ramps but the classic fix for sliding is to get a strip of carpet or rubber mat and loop it around the base of the ramp. As the car drives onto the ramp then this is caught beneath the tyre and holds the ramp until you can get the weight of the car onto them. 

 

Image searched for for ages but this was the best example. 

 

IMG_1508.JPG.696368d2cde628defacaa7335ea029ed.JPG

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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On the subject of ramps, I use them for a lot, especially for fluid changes, because it is a lot faster than jacking the car onto jack stands.

 

I, however, couldn't find a set shallow enough to drive my e36 track car onto and didn't want to shell out $300 for a set of race ramps, so I built some like these (see pics below) made of stacked up 2x10s.  They're cheap, super stable, cannot collapse, don't slide and they nest into each other for easy storage in the corner of my garage.  Also, you can make them to your needs.  I made them shallow enough for my track car, and high enough to easily access the oil plug and transmission plug.  If I was changing the diff oil, I'd just back onto them.

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=423880&d=139

attachment.php?attachmentid=423881&d=139

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Josh (in Dallas)

'72 tii

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6 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

Worst nightmare.  I always keep my floor jack in position as backup support.  

 

 

That.  Plus, I make sure I never get under the car when I'm alone at home.  Either the family or the neighbors are informed "I'm going in!!".  Kind souls, they periodically check on the "nut under the car".

 

Call me paranoid - I am.

 

Back to Casey's original intent - I use and like my Lincoln two-ton floor jack.  Thing's a beast that inspires confidence.  However, as we say in the engineering business - Trust, but Verify.  hence the other belts and suspenders.

Edited by Healey3000
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