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Brake line flares

theNomad

By theNomad,
in BMW 2002 and other '02

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theNomad Veteran

theNomad

Posted
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Trying to get the "feel" for flaring these Cunifer lines. Comparing them to stock I assume I'm grading them correctly? One isnt compressed enough, the others are compressed too much, and only one is good compared to the stock (darker) lines. Its between #6 and #2.
 
I read where you may want them a bit less compressed as they mash into place a little when they are locked in place? 6f37de9d4a4cb29a1a34ed7e38d9bda9.jpg&key=bf4bc8be9997d8f3dd7dc7ab6a68f59d276b7b1f4d14129778f9d6779e923a53


http://www.nomads2002.blogspot.com

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allbim
allbim

Eastwood. I have one of them and it works every time. http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

Simeon
Simeon

Just check that what you are flaring complies with the appropriate ISO/ DIN standard and not the equivalent Japanese standard. Both metric pipe and flares but they do have a different end profile from

ray_
ray_

#6 looks pretty good to me.   But I don't think you will have an issue with any, except maybe #2.   I bought the roll of Cunifer tube from Fedhill and cut and flared and replaced a

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Simeon Grand Master

Simeon

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Posted (edited)

Just check that what you are flaring complies with the appropriate ISO/ DIN standard and not the equivalent Japanese standard. Both metric pipe and flares but they do have a different end profile from memory. 

 

http://store.fedhillusa.com/flare.aspx

 

 

 

 

Edited by Simeon
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rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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ray_ Grand Master

ray_

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#6 looks pretty good to me.

 

But I don't think you will have an issue with any, except maybe #2.

 

I bought the roll of Cunifer tube from Fedhill and cut and flared and replaced all the lines with their borrowed flaring tool. No leaks....

 

Good luck,

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Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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theNomad Veteran

theNomad

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Yes ive looked at the sae vs din/iso and these are din/iso flares. The tool i have will only do din/iso. Im just examining the shoulder of the flare as the pressure I put on the tool determines how much it crushes down. I dont think its appropriate to have a sharp edge as the pipe may be compromised by folding the lip too far?
The sealing face seems ok and they are coming out straight.
It all depends on how far i crank the tool

http://www.nomads2002.blogspot.com

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dlacey Grand Master

dlacey

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apart from 1 & 3 i would be happy, as you tighten the fitting on the caliper/pipe the flare will continue to deform and seal...as long as there's enough material there to squish all will be good.

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'59 Morris Minor, '67 Triumph TR4A, '68 Silver Shadow, '72 2002tii, '73 Jaguar E-Type,

'73 2002tii w/Alpina mods , '74 2002turbo, '85 Alfa Spider, '03 Lotus Elise

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theNomad Veteran

theNomad

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I've locked in some good looking lines now for the front brake calipers and the hard lines that run along the rear subframe. 

I added stainless braided lines connected to the chassis hardlines.

 

My new question is regarding the rear chassis hardline to new flex line junction.

 

They reside on top of the subframe member and I was able to get them in but the angle is such that I'm not sure I can crank them down tight enough. They threaded and got tight but I'm limited by the angles of the tools in the space.

What did others do in this tight spot to insure no leaks? Is the only way to drop the subframe? I'll have to "make" an 11mm line wrench.

http://www.nomads2002.blogspot.com

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Simeon Grand Master

Simeon

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They are awkward to get at from under the car but never had a problem with reinstalling only disconnecting when rusted up. The flex lines are supposed to be caught in a captive sheet steel 'nut' welded to the subframe. I guess if your braided lines have a smaller fitting then they would not get caught. Not sure of an easy solution unless you can get some long noses locking pliers on the hose from the rear (and that is a bit of a dodgy move). 

 

Maybe try lowering the subframe on the bolts down to the end of the thread to get some more room?

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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allbim Mentor

allbim

Posted
Posted
On 9/18/2017 at 10:20 AM, 72ITB said:

anyone know where to buy a brake quip flaring tool?

Eastwood. I have one of them and it works every time.

http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

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No amount of skill or education will ever replace dumb luck
1971 2002 (much modified rocket),  1987 635CSI (beauty),  

2000 323i,  1996 Silverado Pickup (very useful)

Too many cars.

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