re-install orientation of half-shaft & CV joints

[vairter]

I'm in the throes of removing and disassembling my CV joints to replace torn boots.  I tried to keep track of the orientation (i.e., whether connection was to wheel or diff) of the 2 joints and shaft by labelling things with magic marker.  In the chaos that ensued due to the deluge of grease and joints being stuck onto the shaft, I managed to lose track of the identity of the 2 CV joint housings.  Magic marker doesn't really hold up so well when coated by grease... 

 

Does the re-install orientation really matter, for both the shaft and the CV joints?  If I install the original diff joint on the wheel and vice versa, will I regret it down the road?

 

One of the joint housings is still attached to the shaft (still working on fighting it off).  Is there any identifying mark or feature on the shaft that might give me a clue as to which CV joint is which?  

 

Or are there any unique wear patterns in the races of the CV joint that might suggest the correct original orientation?

 

 

[PaulTWinterton]

The term is "clocking".  If you Google cv clocking it may come up with a few articles.  I found a how-to for VW dune buggie cv rebuilding.  

The reason for clocking is you can get binding at extreme deflection if you don't orientate each cv correctly.

Dune buggies can reach extreme deflection regularly, 02s not so much.

I clocked mine because it made sense.

Edited July 31, 2017 by PaulTWinterton

[Preyupy]

It is best to put them back where they came from but it does not really matter in the low HP world of 2002's that much.  They do tend to work themselves in over time but I have never had a problem using unmarked used half shafts on street cars.  Again like Paul said the extreme deflection applications this becomes a much bigger problem.  We are careful with the high HP race cars (3.5 CSL race cars, 935 Porsche, 962, RSR etc)  to keep them oriented once we have broken them in.   

[markmac]

First comment...Uh Oh.  Last summer when I was busting my a$s to finish my car up thinking somehow I would have it done before Monterey, this was one of the small jobs I started on, basically broken down to axles, cv's, bearings etc.,  no clue at this point about what went with what.  My car would be one of the high (or higher) hp variants.  This has seen better days.....probably should take another look at all of them, my recollection is that there was some pretty good wear - it may be smart at this point to just replace.

 

[Simeon]

3 hours ago, markmac said:

First comment...Uh Oh.  Last summer when I was busting my a$s to finish my car up thinking somehow I would have it done before Monterey, this was one of the small jobs I started on, basically broken down to axles, cv's, bearings etc.,  no clue at this point about what went with what.  My car would be one of the high (or higher) hp variants.  This has seen better days.....probably should take another look at all of them, my recollection is that there was some pretty good wear - it may be smart at this point to just replace.

 

 

I would say so assuming they are easy enough to pick up (perhaps 2nd hand since whatever you get them from is likely to have been driven a lot easier than your car). 

 

Is that a crack through the lobe?

[markmac]

It is.....

[Preyupy]

I've twisted stub axles but I don't think I have ever cracked an inner race on a CV.  YOU WIN!

[markmac]

(I didn't do it....). I did a double take myself after I washed all the grease off.  Like most race cars this one took a real beating, especially in its Alpina afterlife in Italy.  Lots of time hillclimbing with a lot less budget than Alpina and a new paint job every other week.

[Simeon]

What car are they off? 3litre? Very likely to find some gently used ones that you can then yourself batter. 

[markmac]

That came out of one of the CV's out of my AlpinA Gr2 car.  270hp, many, many races from 50 laps to 12 hours.

[MOJOJOY]

@markmac do you need a black ring for the passenger euro bucket? 

[markmac]

Got one (thanks for asking), at some point I ended up with a Hella H4 Euro light and a Bosch H4 Euro light, I found a great deal on two Hella H4's that had perfect patina on them (the sheet metal that is) one had a trim ring one didn't so I scavenged the one I had for the other (not installed in the pic).  The Bosch's are different (and either way its ALL expensive if you have to buy it....).  Tx

[MOJOJOY]

@markmac well let me know as I have one laying around!