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Jeff's Random Motor Rebuild Disassembly/Assembly Questions Thread.


2002Scoob

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23 hours ago, vacca rabite said:

And absolutely measure bearing clearance using plastigauge.  I know that there are other ways to measure squish that some people prefer, but plasitguage will get you into the bearing tolerance that you are looking for very quickly and positively.

 

Could someone explain the process/ clearances I'd be looking for in order to not only select, but check clearances? What should I be looking for on the crank-rod connections?

 

The Plastigauge that I can order off of Amazon here in europe lists a measurement range from .018-.045mm. Is that what I'd need?

 

The machinist ordered new main-bearings for the crank, so I hope he picked them for a reason and I believe they're standard dim. But i'm now thinking to replace the rod bearings that are in it. The more i look at them, and the more I put effort into everything else I think why not also replace the rod bearings.

 

Wallothnesch (who have been absorbing large sums of my money recently) lists standard, +.25, +.5, +.75, and +1. I'm guessing this would be if the rod Journals on the crank have been machined (I do not believe either crank I have has been, or they've magically been machined to the exact same dimensions). I can't remember their numbers, but I'll be out in the garage cleaning and grinding, and can pull some measurements for you guys in the know. 

 

Again, thanks!

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Question of the day!

Still waiting on the mechanic to finish the machinework on the head (don't ask... but it involved replacing all 8 valves. It appears that piece of shit mechanic @VogtTuning intentionally or inadvertently installed a few bent intake valves) so I'm keeping busy with other projects.

I figured I'd tackle the steering box while I was at it.
46fbcdbe1522383c31f3f97fc58b8538.jpg
It had a bit of slop to the feel, and a little hint of grittiness to it(can't be felt at the wheel, only hands on the box) and I wanted to find out why.

And I found it-
02cc3dc8c08f27edbd0bea3bf7c56616.jpg
Does BMW still not make any replacements for the worm gears?

And where does one acquire the shims that go on the sealing cover? Mine were a bit rusty and roached, but still usable if I clean em up.
a6dd17b7f884cc6794c18868bc638ff8.jpg




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Question of the day!

Still waiting on the mechanic to finish the machinework on the head (don't ask... but it involved replacing all 8 valves. It appears that piece of shit mechanic @VogtTuning intentionally or inadvertently installed a few bent intake valves) so I'm keeping busy with other projects.

I figured I'd tackle the steering box while I was at it.
46fbcdbe1522383c31f3f97fc58b8538.jpg
It had a bit of slop to the feel, and a little hint of grittiness to it(can't be felt at the wheel, only hands on the box) and I wanted to find out why.

And I found it-
02cc3dc8c08f27edbd0bea3bf7c56616.jpg
Does BMW still not make any replacements for the worm gears?

And where does one acquire the shims that go on the sealing cover? Mine were a bit rusty and roached, but still usable if I clean em up.
a6dd17b7f884cc6794c18868bc638ff8.jpg




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Was able to get the shims relatively clean...

7f339d1c0d891782574d457c39c3f784.jpg&key=be473402a093263d131c8de3d33ee0b9d06c3bc706bc2bffa97619116f19b164

I need every one otherwise there's not enough play.

I of course couldn't resist an excuse to wrinkle paint something... and the worm-gear cover was so pitted after blasting from being corroded it needed something to seal it up.

cab4ce8d953a3b3a9f86f0ca51d3e21b.jpg

I am a bit bummed about the pitting to the worm gear... would like to replace it to get rid of that gritty feeling, and alleviate some of the slop I feel in the neutral position.

 

 

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The slop you may be able to adjust with the preload screw on top, depending on if it's exactly on- center.

 Make sure you do exactly center the travel of the box on reinstallation-

that's a classic reason for a bit of slop right on- center...

 

 

As to bent intakes, it's not hard to do on head reassembly,

or by setting the head down onto the open valves.

I learned.

The hard way.

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Thanks Toby.

I tried adjusting it before disassembly and wasn't able to get much out of it before it started to bind, I'll try again once I've got some fresh fluid in her. Gotta let paint dry tonight :)

All google signs are pointing towards worm gears as still being out of stock.

As for the intake valves...Well... it was all 4. So now I'll have a fresh 8. I was beyond careful with the install. I wouldn't put it past the guy to have been accidentally or intentionally 'negligent'. That POS was by far the worst mechanic I've ever dealt with...

Good news is the machinist I'm working with now is spot on and doing things the right way.


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Can the divots in the worm gear be filled and smoothed?
 
GL,


I was actually thinking the same... weld, grind, then polish. Might be a possibility.

The pits you see are the only ones, other than that the bearing races and everywhere else is good.




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You can seek out a specialist and get the pitting filled by 'metal spraying' to build up the surface but you would need advise on hardening , surface treatment and how it would be machined. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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I have to admit, those pits are in an odd place- usually, they're just off- center to one side or another.

Those look like they're almost at full lock. Is the roller clean?

 

As to repair, I'd be surprised if anyone can do much- those worms are fantastically hard...

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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I have the same problem with a close ratio box, pitted on the worm gear.  I was going to look into maybe getting it tig welded and then hardened but to what specs, can't find any.  Talked to a steering box builder and this is what he suggested.   Too bad that could not find any one that could reproduce the close ratio worm gear, that is the only difference form the std box but it is a complicated piece.

 

Thanks, Rick

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We should petition the manufacturer for reproductions... and a quick ratio would indeed be nice!

Paul- yup yup. Ordered Wallothnesch's rebuild kit with all new seals etc.

TIG-ing or metal spraying sounds like plausible options, but without hardness specs it's indeed difficult.

If anyone had a clean spare worm lying around I'd be most intrigued. But till then I'll run what I've brung till I find something better.

Are there direct swap options from newer vehicles, e21 and the sort?


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