What did you do to your 2002 today !

[tech71]

Thats a lot of carbon on that piston, those oil control rings look like the type that has that maddening expansion wire and teeny  wrap around spring under what you see there. Wonder if it's in there?

New rings for sure, be sure to check/adjust ring end gap.

 

Edited December 8, 2024 by tech71

[stephers]

When you clean up your pistons, make sure that the drain back holes in the oil ring groove are nice and clean. I take a slightly larger drill bit and chamfer the edges for better oil drain    I have seen more oil rings fail because those drain back holes are plugged  with carbon    not changing the oil frequently enough 

 

Thanks, Rick

[DieselOx]

Thanks for all the help everyone, great advice. I'll be carefully measuring everything best I can today, see where it all is.

[kaptanoglu]

Alternator bolt replacement - not a huge deal, but was fun with the son

 

Nothing says “I don’t take care of my car” quite like the squeal of a loose belt.  Our 35 yo son was staying with us for awhile, and we decided to sort it out.  I was confident it was the AC belt, but discovered the alternator was loose.  Steps we took

• Loosen alt adjuster and flex it out with a large wrench — Hmm, it sure is turning funny
• Realize that the hinge bolt is sheared — Have son use his dextrous fingers to fish it out
• What size?  Tough to tell when you just have one end of it —- While the internet was not conclusive, M8 x 95mm looked about right
• Hardware store — They had an M8 x 90mm — will that work?  tough to say since the radiator is in the way of getting a straight shot
• Pull the oil filter and put it in from the back — much easier, but 90mm is too short, even without washers (and @Terry Sayther in my mind saying “Washers, always washers”
• By the way, we left the trunk open for a few days, and the trunk light drained the battery, so there’s that
• Back to the hardware store — Do they have 100mm?  Now that we’ve taken the oil filter off, we have plenty of room — they do not
• Trigger warning - son suggests using imperial bolts — I react violently until I realize that (a) we really need the car to run and (b) 5/16” is 7.9mm and 4” is 102mm, so maaaaayyybbeeee as a stop gap
• New bolt goes in great, though the nut decides to jump to the little bodywork shelf right below the radiator, and most of the time is spent chasing the nut around with a mirror, a pick and the end of a zip tie.  Conveniently, a 13mm worked great
• Hmmmm — dangling blue wire.  I wonder what it goes to — I plug it onto the most visible spade connector (the “+” as it turns out - pic below)
• Success!  We go get our Christmas tree with Sputter, as is our tradition (pic below)
• Hmmmm - the “L” light is coming on when we turn off the car.  The alt is charging the battery.  I just unhook the battery to mess with it today
• Aha!  The blue wire should go on the “D+” terminal - Success! (pic below — worth noting, my alt is a Franken alt with the old syle front plate mounted onto a newer alt with an internal regulator) 

Getting to do the repair with my son and go grab the tree before he left town this AM was awesome.

 

[BarneyT]

My son Ellis stopped by this morning with my grandson Oslo to install new IE stainless exhaust system and test fit new Koogle works front air dam on his 72 golf…

 

Edited December 9, 2024 by BarneyT

[72pdx02]

Inspired by “I like powerslide” I replaced my gearshift knob with this alpine inspired knob. I no longer have an upside down BMW logo knob. Simplicity at its best. 

[Son of Marty]

Give the kid a wrench, he needs to learn no slaking in grandpa's shop.

[popovm]

1 hour ago, 72pdx02 said:

Inspired by “I like powerslide” I replaced my gearshift knob with this alpine inspired knob. I no longer have an upside down BMW logo knob. Simplicity at its best. 

Have a link to where you got that one from? Looks good. 

[kaptanoglu]

15 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Give the kid a wrench, he needs to learn no slaking in grandpa's shop.

He's already on the creeper

[72pdx02]

On 12/8/2024 at 11:21 PM, popovm said:

Have a link to where you got that one from? Looks good. 

Shift Knob, Solid, 911/912 (65-69)

SIERRAMADRECOLLECTION.COM

---

Solid plastic shift knob. Genuine OEM shift knob for early 911/912. Crush sleeve (#999.532.003.00) is not included.

You don’t need a crush sleeve it screws right on. Feels great in my palm, I look forward to shifting gears😄

 

[Pablo M]

Started prepping the new (used) fender to replace my trashed one. It’s not as striated as it looks in photo, but I will sand and primer once more before hitting it with a color matched spray can (my car is not a looker, so spray can is appropriate).  

 

[NickVyse]

Time to delete those side markers!

[sczapiga]

So in preparation to drop my fresh engine back in, I swapped out the pilot bearing in the crank. I was worried I’d make a mess of it since I kinda forgot to do it earlier but after reading about the bread trick I decided to give it a try. It worked!!! The funniest and coolest thing I’ve tried in a while:) Except for hitting my thumb once, it came out pretty smoothly. I also have the needle bearing type and as long as it’s slightly stale wheat country bread, it works:) Now time to drop her in🤘🏼

[Mark92131]

I started the process of getting ready to drive it before the end of the year.  This requires torquing all the suspension bolts on the front and rear subframe.  I started with the rear hub nuts and fabricated a bar to hold the hub while I torqued the nut with an extended breaker bar, (piece of steel pipe).  I estimated approximately 300 ft/lbs (100 ft/lbs with a 3 ft long bar) and then continued until the cotter pin hole was lined up on the castle nut.

 

Next, I tried to figure out why the passenger side spring keeps slipping off the lower spring pad.  The driver's side spring sits right, but not the right side.  I disconnected the rear sway bar and pulled the nut off the top of the shock to drop the control arm so I could try to get the spring to sit on the upper and lower pads correctly.  Once I had the spring in position, I would use my floor jack to slowly raise the control arm to compress the spring.  Something wasn't right, if the spring was correct on the lower pad, the top wasn't right and if the spring was correct on the top pad, the spring would slip off the bottom.

 

The bottom pad has a fixed position with the detent and the top pad can be positioned to capture the end of the spring coil.  I finally realized that when the spring was sitting correctly in the top pad, the bottom end of the spring coil extended past the notch to capture the end of the coil with the lower pad in its fixed position.  So I pulled out the spring, used my angle grinder to trim off about 3/8" on the end of the lower coil, spray painted the cut end with satin black Rustoleum and reinstalled.  Now the passenger side Eibach spring sits flush on the IE spring pads.

 

Next, torquing the rest of the bolts with the suspension loaded.

 

Mark92131

[popovm]

@sczapiga, that butterfly is a good driver! 😁