What did you do to your 2002 today !

[sczapiga]

Today I finally got some epoxy primer on the engine bay after what seemed like 1,000 hours of sanding, welding holes and cleaning. After a wet sand it’s getting some base/ clear then time to assemble the new engine😃

 

I had planned on repainting the car in its original Malaga but I’ve never looked at that color and really fell in love. I’m really considering going for it and painting it Ceylon;) I feel like that color screams the 70’s and is not as common as Malaga and others. 🤷

[BarneyT]

Proud papa moment today, had both my sons over here at my shop working on their 2002s getting them ready for the Texas 02berfest Oct, 24/25/26 in Kerrville, Texas the heart of the Texas Hill Country…

 

Edited October 13 by BarneyT

[JKKH]

22 minutes ago, BarneyT said:

Proud papa moment today, had both my sons over here at my shop working on their 2002s getting them ready for the Texas 02berfest Oct, 24/25/26 in Kerrville, Texas the heart of the Texas Hill Country…

 

And this...this is all that's right in the world.

[d.hitchcock]

Skipped day two of a track weekend at the Lake Garnett Grand Prix Revival due to loud ticking in my engine after day one track sessions. Oil level was checked and topped off by about half a quart. But no change occurred.

Didn't have the gumption to pull the valve cover last night to check clearances. Now wish I had.

When I got back home today, I found the intake clearance on the back cylinder was super loose. The eccentric had worked itself loose somehow, and clearance had changed itself. Put it back right.

Also tightened up exhaust header nuts. Found three loose enough that I could spin their washers with my fingers.

Ticking sound went away. However, I was left with an exhaust leak. I'll find out tomorrow whether I just tighten nuts at the flange, or get my buddy to fire up his welder.

[Mark92131]

Ok, it was more like what did you do over the weekend.  So I finally finished rebuilding the door windows and adjusting them so they would roll up and down smoothly.  I had switched out the vent windows with a better pair and replaced all the glass, cleaned up all the tracks and sliders, new hardware and MVP window lift mechanisms.  Switching out the vent windows completely changed the original window track positions, so I had to start over with the window alignment.  The trick is to align the vent window frame first and then adjust the back sliding track until everything moves correctly without binding.  I’m sure I’ll need to make some more adjustments after the door seals are installed.
 

Do yourself a favor and don’t buy the window felt for the vent window frame from Wallothnesch or the rubber that holds the bottom of the window to the window lift.  Both these parts don’t fit well and had to be replaced with generic parts or the originals.

 

My son was down from college for the weekend, so I had him help me install the windshield lock strip before he left.

 

Mark92131

[Clem Simmons]

Mark

 

I really like what you are doing for your car and I am trying hard to match the quality of your and your team’s work. 
 

I am always on the lookout for photos of your progress. 
 

clem

 

 

[Stevenc22]

Previous owner stripped the hex of the fill plug on the transmission. 6 months of planning, three or four attempts, the biggest baddest vice grips ever made, success!

[JQ02]

7 minutes ago, Stevenc22 said:

Previous owner stripped the hex of the fill plug on the transmission. 6 months of planning, three or four attempts, the biggest baddest vice grips ever made, success!

 

Glad that you got it! The plug on my first 2002 was so stuck that I replaced the pan (thankfully, this was 1986 and the guy who sold me the car had 5). For grins, I continued to try to remove it after the pan was out and bent the pan! 😮 It never did come out.

[MauiBob]

I ripped off my airhorns installed and incredible airbox / filter array from Tim Jason Performance! So stoked! 

[gruizer]

Took the project car out for a spin and let my newly licensed teenager drive it around the block.  At some point I took over and got sideways on a hard acceleration. My son asked if we were drifting. 

[The Geologist]

This weekend I added four more rows to a spreadsheet, as described in the Weber 38 tuning thread.  

 

 

I also untangled a seatbelt, addressed a squeaky door hinge with some Rem Oil (best light lubricant ever), and put a light coat of dielectric grease to stop the squeaking coming from the steering wheel brass contact ring.  

[its55]

As of late I’ve modernized Schmidt a bit by installing electronic ignition (Hot-Spark) and an electric fuel pump (Carter). I was still fighting starting issues and, after almost losing my mind and firmly believing it had to be a fuel issue, and tearing down the Weber twice, I discovered that the float was not allowing nearly enough fuel into the bowl and after a slight twist to a float tab all is well!  Topped it all off with a Weber air filter (like the original air filter housing but this makes adjustments so much easier). 
 

 

[Howardpowered]

4 hours ago, The Geologist said:

put a light coat of dielectric grease to stop the squeaking coming from the steering wheel brass contact ring.  

and the horn still works? ive used conductive grease for this purpose, but maybe the pin sweeps things down to below a breakdown thickness anyway.

[Mark92131]

Completed the driver's side URO door seal installation.  I pulled down the pinch weld at the door opening and install the top portion of the seal.  This was a battle that I eventually won with lots of lube and some decent plastic trim tools.  The "B" pillar was a little wonky, but this is because the rubber in the corner has a hard knot that doesn't like to be compressed, (some cut the back of this knot to free it up, but I did not).  A couple of test door closes were unsuccessful, requiring seal modifications.

 

I went with surgery to the "B" pillar side.  I cut off the seal just above the top of the door and confirmed that the door would now close and latch.  I took my Exacto knife and trimmed off the 2 rubber runners on the back of the seal so the installed seal sits inboard to the upper seal.  I used my bench grinder to remove any remaining rubber from the 2 runners until this area was flat, smooth and consistent thickness.  After a few tests fits, I did make some grinder alterations so the bottom curve sat flat and closer to the pinch weld edge.  When I was happy with the fit, I used contact cement to attach the seal to the door opening and rubber glue to glue the 2 pieces back together.

 

Once this was done, I let it dry overnight.  The next day I re-installed all the pinch weld, (This corrected some of the wonky top corner) and my new MVP Sill Covers.  This required some trimming of the Sill cover rubber so the pegs at the bottom of the URO seal could be inserted into the holes at each end.  After that, I installed the upper chrome strip at the top outside edge of the door which also required some trimming to make the back edge of the wing window frame fit, (also MVP).  The door now closes with a solid thump.  All that is left is the weather proof sheet on the inside of the door and the door card, then on to the passenger side.

 

Mark92131

 

 

[pd_55]

@Mark92131 Nice work. The gaskets are definitely the worst part of any of a refurbishment. Question on your door sills. Is it backwards or is that the way the early 2002’s are?