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What did you do to your 2002 today !

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6 hours ago, uai said:

Sure, it's a NOS cast iron 0 231 129 033 like they were OE in 1600ti and 2002ti

 

 

1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Wow, that is a thing of beauty, Uli!! 

 

I had been thinking it was silly for me to ask you that question and now I am really glad I did.

 

Are the cast iron units ‘special’ other than being early / period-correct (well, and that cool, old-school appearance) ?

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2 minutes ago, kbmb02 said:

Are the cast iron units ‘special’ other than being early / period-correct (well, and that cool, old-school appearance) ?

 

Mechanical advance. Oiling port.  Heavy!  

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They're all special!!  and they are all different.  I have three 'early style' units apart right now and I don't think there is a universal part between them, except for one points plate.  Springs, weights, shafts, etc. are all unique.

 

The oiler on the cast iron models is a special-feature.  Paul must have just filled his in that photo, because I know he'd never leave the little window open.

 

Ed sent this one to me, along with one of Paul's proper 008, which is the 151 008, not the vacuum retard 008 (whose prefix I forget right now, but I do have an example in the shop, thanks to Toby!)

 

I have been documenting details as I take a few apart and I am hoping to better answer your question, Ken, once I have the 008 in pieces.  I drilled both pins yesterday. 

IMG_2800.thumb.JPG.a9c5b989d949e43d3bcc5af1cb8bc2d5.JPG

The center post is stepped on the cast iron style, so they take do take a special-rotor.

IMG_2848.thumb.JPG.7e7fa14a390ec2080473d9dccaed7ae6.JPG

(The two little tools in that picture are for removing and installing the little wire post clip).  

I'll post what I learn in that other thread.

TOm

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55 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

They're all special!!  and they are all different.  I have three 'early style' units apart right now and I don't think there is a universal part between them, except for one points plate.  Springs, weights, shafts, etc. are all unique.

 

The oiler on the cast iron models is a special-feature.  Paul must have just filled his in that photo, because I know he'd never leave the little window open.

 

Ed sent this one to me, along with one of Paul's proper 008, which is the 151 008, not the vacuum retard 008 (whose prefix I forget right now, but I do have an example in the shop, thanks to Toby!)

 

I have been documenting details as I take a few apart and I am hoping to better answer your question, Ken, once I have the 008 in pieces.  I drilled both pins yesterday. 

IMG_2800.thumb.JPG.a9c5b989d949e43d3bcc5af1cb8bc2d5.JPG

The center post is stepped on the cast iron style, so they take do take a special-rotor.

IMG_2848.thumb.JPG.7e7fa14a390ec2080473d9dccaed7ae6.JPG

(The two little tools in that picture are for removing and installing the little wire post clip).  

I'll post what I learn in that other thread.

TOm

Can you add those swirls to a 123 shaft?

 

:)

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1 minute ago, ray_ said:

Can you add those swirls to a 123 shaft?

 

I am pretty sure they were added to the Bosch shafts prior to going through the hardening process.  The shaft and weight's base ring-like-a-bell, they're so hard.  There aren't grooves at the top of the 129 033, like there are on the 151 008 (and the late style shafts), but the 033 lets you ADD oil to the shaft, as opposed to those grooves trying to spin it back down.  Seems like tricky business, because the shaft needs some oil, but not so much that it pushes up and floods the distributor. 

 

(someone needs to find a replacement part for the 123's little o-ring on the shaft)

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4 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

 

 

(someone needs to add a swirl to the 123's shaft)

Fixed that for you.

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4 minutes ago, ray_ said:

Fixed that for you.

 

I appreciate that, Ray.  Just don't ask me to fix your 123 for you!

 

I am just thinking that a new o-ring might buy you some time between leaks.

 

Real distributors have ONE wire. (.. two, if you include the one on the condenser). 

Any more wires than that and it's too modern for my taste.  :D 

 

Tom

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Best of both worlds? My cast iron distributor with a 123 unit built into it.

My 123 has not leaked at all-- and it has 15 break-in miles on it already!

20200326_155453_1585252531765 2.jpg

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17 minutes ago, mccusername said:

Coming together...

20200326_155349_1585252468449.jpg

 

 

Nice!

 

Now move the fuel filter :)

 

Cheers,

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4 minutes ago, ray_ said:

Now move the fuel filter :)

 

Agreed. Still in diagnostic mode. The mech fuel pump is not the correct one, as the correct one keeps leaking. I am trying to keep things OEM-ish but I'm tempted to go with an electric fuel pump and clean up some of those lines.

Nate at Sports Car Restoration did up a nice clean throttle linkage.

 

 

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27 minutes ago, mccusername said:

Coming together...

20200326_155349_1585252468449.jpg

 

Sweet generator!!

 

You put the 123 guts into another distributor body? Seems like the most effective way to counteract the leak problem that people have...this is the way I'd want to go. 

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3 minutes ago, FunElan said:

Sweet generator!!

 

You put the 123 guts into another distributor body?

 

Well, I paid the 123 people to put the 123 guts in my distributor body. I did it for looks but if it helps with the leaking problem so much the better.

 

Similarly, the generator was converted to 12v so new guts in that body as well.

 

 

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2 minutes ago, mccusername said:

 

Well, I paid the 123 people to put the 123 guts in my distributor body. I did it for looks but if it helps with the leaking problem so much the better.

 

Similarly, the generator was converted to 12v so new guts in that body as well.

 

 

 

Kudos to your commitment to originality!!

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