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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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I finished installing the Lynx manifold and DCOE 45 on my ‘75 and tuned it. Works great!IMG_3280.jpgIMG_3281.jpg


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Frank,  SaharaX2
'75 2002 Sahara (Janice)
'74 2002 Sahara (Camilla) dearly departed
'76 2002 Anthrazit (Gonzo) now daughters car

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1 hour ago, BarneyT said:

I looked it over today for final punch list picking it up Friday at 11:00....

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Lookin' great Barney! Can't wait to see it in person!

 

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1973 2002tii (2764167), Baikal, sunroof, A/C, 5spd OD, 3.91 LSD, etc. Rebuild blog here!

In the past: Verona H&B 1973 2002tii (2762913); Malaga 1975 2002; White 1975 2002

--> Blog: Repro tii cold start relay;   --> If you need an Alpina A4 tuning manual, PM me!

 

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Replaced both rear wheel cylinders, shoes on the red car, then bled and adjusted..  For some reason the passenger rear was seeping a bit, figured the best answer was new rears all around..

 

Jason

  • Like 3

1973 2002tii (2764167), Baikal, sunroof, A/C, 5spd OD, 3.91 LSD, etc. Rebuild blog here!

In the past: Verona H&B 1973 2002tii (2762913); Malaga 1975 2002; White 1975 2002

--> Blog: Repro tii cold start relay;   --> If you need an Alpina A4 tuning manual, PM me!

 

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Today I finally opened up the passenger door and replaced the regulator with a nicer used one I bought a few years ago.  I've never been able to get the window to roll all the way up and it slowly got worse over time; to where it'd stop about an inch down.  Part of the problem was that a bunch of the fasteners had come loose, so I used locktite this time around.

 

It turns out the regulator's arm was bent.  Here is the replacement

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and the old one

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After a ton of fiddling with window adjustments, the door closes nicely, but the glass on the trailing edge of the window is not up tight to the seal.  It seems good at the top, just not on that vertical edge, so I inserted a strip of innertube rubber behind the seal's flap.  I think I may need to add one more layer in the middle, to pooch it out a bit.  

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While I was at it, I cleaned out the remaining fuzzy strip on the window scraper trim piece and then inserted the strip from a new piece of that trim.

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Unfortunately there was too much friction to pull the whole strip in at once, so I cut it into four pieces and pulled them in one at a time.  To get a grip on them, I laced a thin piece of wire through the webbing and pulled it in using pliers; then cut and pulled the wire out. 

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Tedious day, but I'm glad that stuff is done.

 

edit: I wound up removing the strip of rubber from the seal, in favor of a thicker shim behind the whole seal, as seen in a post below.

Edited by '76mintgrün'02
  • Like 4

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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Painted the previously painted wheels back to silver, new tires (205/55-15, Yoko S-Drives.) As a thank you the engine decided it didn't need the lower alternator bracket bolt- trying to get in on the whole lightening thing I guess. Happened while I was driving to the gym this morning at 545. Fortunately there's a hardware store around the corner from the gym- guess I better get to crackin at putting together a kit...

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Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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Today I finished working on the passenger door and got it all buttoned back up. 

 

I closed the door with a slip of paper between the glass and the door seal to see if it was tight enough and found that the B pillar was still too loose. 

 

One thing I noticed is that there was slop in the rear slider where it fit onto the rail, so I removed those pieces as well.  The quick-grip clamp is an easy way to keep the glass in place.

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The plastic glide sliders were worn, but I had a spare part from the driver's side that had better ones, so I used those.  It is neat that the steel part is reversible and works for either side if you flip it over.  I made a little wooden wedge to drive the slides out 

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and once installed I measured them and then squished them .010" tighter.

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There was a worn spot on the back of that track where the slide sits when the window is all the way up.  012.thumb.JPG.b10842975f3a4ee5259d9a99fe9a4201.JPGThose parts were letting the top of the window tip out at the back corner and replacing/repairing them helped.

 

The seal on the B pillar is a bit tired, so I made a shim out of 1/8" polycarbonate and slipped it in between the pinch welt and the back of the seal, which pushed the seal out to meet the window.  I did add some taper to the shim, since more pressure was needed at the bottom than the top.

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On the driver's side it was only loose at the bottom, so I made a short little tapered shim to fit in there.  It took a little work on the belt sander to get the shims to the right thickness, but I am happy with the results.

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I also made a thin little scraping pick to clear the dusty debris out of the seam at the outside of the bottom of the door shell.  It worked well for getting into those far corners, where rust can be a problem. 

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If I had done that seven years ago, I would probably not have those pesky little blisters forming there, but at least now they have been cleaned out and flooded with OSPHO.  Later I will get back in there with some sort of cavity wax, or something.  So I am not actually done, but I put the floppy old door skin back on, calling it   good   enough   for   now.

  • Like 5

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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 Very happy with the glasurit paint and the way the overall A0CE2E23-A9C1-49DC-A654-AD8C11C55B26.thumb.jpeg.b0658a421aa4af4ba4e686682e711938.jpegA6D86A36-FD8D-4187-8F41-ED2730FFA3AC.thumb.jpeg.ce113cd770fce801d68c3d63038e5522.jpegAC006B12-4106-4F54-AFB7-CB4040E0C8DB.thumb.jpeg.b289b2057065d3ee07b2f2f7b48a9bbb.jpeg3A8E5F1B-082B-4D71-B06A-4F2824DFDC10.thumb.jpeg.f08fdba3198a153f31b8db1c8f807d47.jpegpaint job came out, it was six months and 21 days but I think it was worth it ...

  • Like 8

Don’t let the fear of what could happen

make nothing happen…

 

  

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53 minutes ago, BarneyT said:

 Very happy with the glasurit paint and the way the overall A0CE2E23-A9C1-49DC-A654-AD8C11C55B26.thumb.jpeg.b0658a421aa4af4ba4e686682e711938.jpegA6D86A36-FD8D-4187-8F41-ED2730FFA3AC.thumb.jpeg.ce113cd770fce801d68c3d63038e5522.jpegAC006B12-4106-4F54-AFB7-CB4040E0C8DB.thumb.jpeg.b289b2057065d3ee07b2f2f7b48a9bbb.jpeg3A8E5F1B-082B-4D71-B06A-4F2824DFDC10.thumb.jpeg.f08fdba3198a153f31b8db1c8f807d47.jpegpaint job came out, it was six months and 21 days but I think it was worth it ...

 Outstanding! It’ll be a beauty for sure.

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5 minutes ago, VWJake said:

 Outstanding! It’ll be a beauty for sure.

 

59 minutes ago, BarneyT said:

 Very happy with the glasurit paint and the way the overall A0CE2E23-A9C1-49DC-A654-AD8C11C55B26.thumb.jpeg.b0658a421aa4af4ba4e686682e711938.jpegA6D86A36-FD8D-4187-8F41-ED2730FFA3AC.thumb.jpeg.ce113cd770fce801d68c3d63038e5522.jpegAC006B12-4106-4F54-AFB7-CB4040E0C8DB.thumb.jpeg.b289b2057065d3ee07b2f2f7b48a9bbb.jpeg3A8E5F1B-082B-4D71-B06A-4F2824DFDC10.thumb.jpeg.f08fdba3198a153f31b8db1c8f807d47.jpegpaint job came out, it was six months and 21 days but I think it was worth it ...

It looks fantastic. I only hope that mine comes out as nice, but it definitely sets the bar!

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‘73 Chamonix

 

I managed a few hours this evening to work on my own junk. I replaced the rotten portion of the right inner wheelhouse.

 

80F3F1E2-EB9B-4670-8426-4D3FE66E22D3.thumb.jpeg.f63452a69165a35241ddb7db08adbf54.jpegI made/welded in 4 patch panels for the gas tank half of the trunk floor. I did a bit of clean up/bead blasting of the trunk floor. I wasn’t real thorough as this entire car is going to take a POR15 bath before paint, but I did make sure that there weren’t any holes hidden by scale. 

 

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Geeze, I think I may be about ready to weld this piece in. Then I can fit the spare tire well and a tail panel. At an average of 2.5hrs/wk that should take me til about the first weekend in May. I promised myself that I’d be driving this car around town before the snow flies this year... I think I’m a tick behind schedule at this point. ?

 

 

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8 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

So I am not actually done, but I put the floppy old door skin back on, calling it   good   enough   for   now.

 

I have lost count of the number of times I have sealed my doors up thinking “well, won’t need to go back in there any time soon”.

 

 

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rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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