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What did you do to your 2002 today !

Berk Ergin

By Berk Ergin,
in BMW 2002 and other '02

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Simeon Grand Master

Simeon

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, ray_ said:

 

 

Unscrew and remove the lock push button and see what happens...

 

Cheers,

That’s definitely worth a shot. Thanks Ray. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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NYNick Grand Master

NYNick

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, ray_ said:

 

 

Unscrew and remove the lock push button and see what happens...

 

Cheers,

Take the lock push rod off completely and see what happens. The door card has to be hitting something.

1974 2002 Tii-SOLD

1978 911SC Coupe

1988 Landcruiser

2020 M2 CS

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dlhoovler Mentor

dlhoovler

Posted
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Picked up a new set of 185/70-13 tires. The 14" Sumitomos I put on the 2000CS wheels five years ago are getting a bit squirrely in the wet, even though the tread is still nearly full-depth. I spotted these when browsing various tire sites (as one does), on clearance at NTB for $30 per tire. Yes, $30.

 

I don't have unrealistic expectations for these "Epic Tour" tires (one of the generic TBC tire brands) -- they may be an Epic Fail -- but I got the set of four mounted and balanced for just $170, or about the cost of one Pirelli CN36. They're round and black. They do at least have proper classic-style smooth sidewalls and a fairly traditional tread pattern with three wide circumferential grooves that should help to evacuate water. Maybe. They're almost certainly nothing amazing for overall traction, but that's OK with me at this point. But I plan to keep the Sumis on the car for winter storage, so I won't really know how the new tires do until the spring.

 

I also refreshed my Opel Kadett 13x5 steel wheels before getting the new tires mounted -- soda blasted them in my driveway, then painted them satin black on the inside with silver faces (Rustoleum metallic matte nickel topped with Rustoleum satin clear, which turned out close enough to my original spare for me). 

 

-Dave

EpicTour-1.jpg

EpicTour-2.jpg

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Colorado '71 2002

'17 VW GTI Sport
'10 Honda Odyssey Family & Stuff Hauler

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Simeon Grand Master

Simeon

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, NYNick said:

Take the lock push rod off completely and see what happens. The door card has to be hitting something.

 

I agree. There must be a logical explanation like that and it is certainly worth a go. I had previously ruled this out as the only things it could physically touch are the horizontal door opening rod and the lock push button rod. Neither of these appear to have any part in opening the door from the outside. The outside push button seems to bypass all of these and they seem to stay perfectly still when the button is pushed so it is hard to see how, even if the door card is touching, it would have any affect on the latch opening. Still, worth a shot. I will check I have the rods in the same way around as on the driver’s door as well. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Simeon Grand Master

Simeon

Posted
Posted

Tom, can you do me a favour and wiggle the rotating latch and tell me how much play you can feel. Mine (on both sides actually) have quite a lot of wiggle. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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'76mintgrün'02 Grand Master

'76mintgrün'02

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, Simeon said:

wiggle the rotating latch

 

measuring from the tab that the kernal goes on back to the body of the assembly, I can get .020" of wiggle... (which the computer tells me translates to .5 mm)

 

I did not measure the one on the car, but it felt a little wigglier.

The one on the driver's door was a little looser, as would be expected; but they both seem to work okay.

 

 

   

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Simeon Grand Master

Simeon

Posted
Posted

It might well not be an issue but given the forces when the door is shut several thousand times, it is not a surprise that the latch gets a bit wallered out.

 

0.5mm sounds good compared to mine which seems looser on the old wiggle-o-meter. I wonder if some judicious peening with a punch could take some of that play back out of it again?

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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Simeon Grand Master

Simeon

Posted
Posted
30 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Maybe you should pull it out of the door and fiddle with it.  It is a pretty neat mechanism... now that I'm looking at it.

 

I thought it would be right up your street ?

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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NYNick Grand Master

NYNick

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Simeon said:

 

I agree. There must be a logical explanation like that and it is certainly worth a go. I had previously ruled this out as the only things it could physically touch are the horizontal door opening rod and the lock push button rod. Neither of these appear to have any part in opening the door from the outside. The outside push button seems to bypass all of these and they seem to stay perfectly still when the button is pushed so it is hard to see how, even if the door card is touching, it would have any affect on the latch opening. Still, worth a shot. I will check I have the rods in the same way around as on the driver’s door as well. 

 

This whole lock thing drove me crazy recently when I was installing those stupid anti-rattle grommets inside the door on both the door latch rod and the lock rod. I couldn't figure out why the lock mechanism wouldn't work with the key, until I closed the door. Then it worked perfectly. It wouldn't work just actuating the door latch upwards, as if the door was closed (but it was still open). I still don't understand why this is, but my locks work fine with the doors closed, so I don't care.?

 

The only other part of your door card that touches anything is the door handle spindle on the inside. Doesn't seem logical, but....

 

And make sure your lock rod is oriented correctly. I'm spatially handicapped (or just dumb) and it took me a while to figure out which way it went. Good luck mate.

 

 

1974 2002 Tii-SOLD

1978 911SC Coupe

1988 Landcruiser

2020 M2 CS

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jgerock Grand Master

jgerock

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, NYNick said:

Take the lock push rod off completely and see what happens. The door card has to be hitting something.

I noticed the replacement door card bases from Aardvark are a little wider so the edge sticks out beyond the door frame. This creates an interference with the door seal and makes it difficult to close the door. I'll have to remove mine and shave the edge about 1/8" to 1/2".

 

Another thing to check is the push tab on the handle itself. They can bend over time possibly due to a lack of lubricant on the lock mechanism.  

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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Bibm5 Mentor

Bibm5

Posted
Posted

Pulled the head with schrick cam and Stahl header off of my "new to me" parts car today to go on my 02.
I'm very excited about these because I bought the car for the 5spd tranny and lsd. These were icing on the cake! d6cd3142414156e8744d3fda8d696f90.jpg7de536162727c2804d9e28f0e230eb3b.jpga8441944d4d5549548ce8fd86ab7988d.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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