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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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43 minutes ago, Simeon said:

That’ll be fine when you lower it down. The droop does funny things to the angles when up in the air. 

Yes that's what I thought as well, certainly looks strange, but I understand why.

The new camber plates looks to have moved the top of the tyre in by a fair distance so I think they will work great.  I have really wanted to fit these wheels for years, but they would not go on a lowered car without the plates.

I have to admit I'm a bit excited, sad I know, but there it is?

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On 9/21/2018 at 4:28 PM, joebarthlow said:

 

BTW, I'm looking for blaupunkt knobs with the silver ends, like the other switches in the dash. I think mine are out of a Porsche. 
 

 

Joe,

 

I regularly see the BMW-style knobs on eBay. They’re expensive, ~$100 pair, but it’s a long time between finding “barn find knobs” for $20 the pair. I will admit, I happily bought a Blaupunkt (Hamburg) AM radio for $50 because it had a pair of good BMW knobs...

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

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1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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16 minutes ago, BarneyT said:

car is being bead blasted on Thursday and off to painter Friday...

 

... reassembled on Monday, test drive Tuesday?  :D 

 

Go man go!

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  • Haha 2

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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6 hours ago, Conserv said:

 

Joe,

 

I regularly see the BMW-style knobs on eBay. They’re expensive, ~$100 pair, but it’s a long time between finding “barn find knobs” for $20 the pair. I will admit, I happily bought a Blaupunkt (Hamburg) AM radio for $50 because it had a pair of good BMW knobs...

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

 

Not surprised that knob cost so much, but thankfully I did not pay much for the radio. 

1974 BMW 2002 (Polaris > Sienabraun)

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finished up painting the inner fender wells, steering column. Welded motor mount brace in front subframe and sent it, springs, and thrust rods for powder coating. Got all new front end hardware from W&N. 

 

Next step is high build primer and sanding sanding for a couple of coats before topcoat in Inka. 

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1588DC0D-53F8-477C-B2B4-D3F732324C04.jpeg

8A3DC455-10F5-454E-87E8-FE71547B07CD.jpeg

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A couple of days ago I put some more yellow lights down front.  They're not wired in... the jury's still out.

001.thumb.JPG.182e09263cfd18eb9eb6b446291d4a55.JPG

sooper simple aluminum-brackets, hose-clamped to the bumper-shocks.

041.thumb.JPG.13dbc32e432c8e3bdb8b8bdde89861c8.JPG

rectangular lights front and rear here!

033.thumb.JPG.1d855e9b9450752488b35c4c12124cba.JPG

 

I installed this tueday  :) 

020.thumb.JPG.298d0bc4f51e4f8f6931eca06a00de14.JPG

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

A couple of days ago I put some more yellow lights down front.  They're not wired in... the jury's still out.

001.thumb.JPG.182e09263cfd18eb9eb6b446291d4a55.JPG

sooper simple aluminum-brackets, hose-clamped to the bumper-shocks.

041.thumb.JPG.13dbc32e432c8e3bdb8b8bdde89861c8.JPG

rectangular lights front and rear here!

033.thumb.JPG.1d855e9b9450752488b35c4c12124cba.JPG

 

I installed this tueday   

020.thumb.JPG.298d0bc4f51e4f8f6931eca06a00de14.JPG

 

Tom,

 

Not that I would usually criticise your works of art but would you not be concerned about stress fractures on those aluminium brackets that see the tab clamped under the hose clamp ripped off from the rest of the bracket? I could see a crack growing across where that has been cut due to the usual bumps and rattles. A couple of small holes drilled to relieve the sharp corners might help. 

 

Your gearstick has some interesting anatomical qualities now. No criticism there!

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rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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BRUNHILDE PASSED TUV!!!!!

It only took 6 months, tons of paperwork, hours and hours of internet-sluthing for vintage approval paperwork for aftermarket performance parts, 1400 euro in paint/bodywork to patch some non-structural rust, and a shit-ton of patience.

 

I immediately drove home to strip off my 13' TUV wheels and throw on the baller' BBS's :). Now to setup a Dyno tuning day for the fattest chokes 40's will fit. 

 

Suck it, TUV.

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2 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

BRUNHILDE PASSED TUV!!!!!

 

Congrats! From now on, how often does it need to be inspected? Yearly? And, is it going to be a relatively easy inspection, as long as you put it back to this set up and the car is in good repair? 

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Josh (in Dallas)

'72 tii

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4 hours ago, Simeon said:

 

Tom,

 

Not that I would usually criticise your works of art but would you not be concerned about stress fractures on those aluminium brackets that see the tab clamped under the hose clamp ripped off from the rest of the bracket? I could see a crack growing across where that has been cut due to the usual bumps and rattles. A couple of small holes drilled to relieve the sharp corners might help. 

 

Your gearstick has some interesting anatomical qualities now. No criticism there!

i was hoping the brackets were just mockups for possible locations.  that little tiny bit of aluminum left holding the light will snap off in no time.  not to mention the massive beam dance from the lack of strutural rigidity.

 

using a siphon primer bulb off a boat gas tank for a shift lever cover is...ahh...yes....interesting!

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2xM3

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1 hour ago, g_force said:

 

Congrats! From now on, how often does it need to be inspected? Yearly? And, is it going to be a relatively easy inspection, as long as you put it back to this set up and the car is in good repair? 

 

It's an every 2 year ordeal. It's a relatively simple process minus corrosion issues, as long as you haven't touched, modified, removed, upgraded anything... And I'd done all those things. haha.

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7 hours ago, Simeon said:

would you not be concerned about stress fractures on those aluminium brackets

 

3 hours ago, mlytle said:

i was hoping the brackets were just mockups for possible locations.

 

yes, the brackets are temporary, just for mocking it up to see if I like the lights down there.  I totally agree with the strength concerns.  (sorry, I should have mentioned that)

 

The brackets are kind of ugly too, even though they're hiding down under the bumper; but I do like the way they place the lights back towards the nose.

 

3 hours ago, mlytle said:

using a siphon primer bulb off a boat gas tank for a shift lever cover is...ahh...yes....interesting!

 

I have the arrow pointing down... is that correct?  I tried searching the archives, but was not successful ;) 

 

Edited by '76mintgrün'02
PunctUation Upgrade

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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56 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:
4 hours ago, mlytle said:

using a siphon primer bulb off a boat gas tank for a shift lever cover is...ahh...yes....interesting!

 

I have the arrow pointing down... is that correct?  I tried searching the archives, but was not successful ;) 

 

Is that instead of, or in addition to a choke?

 

:D

  • Haha 1

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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