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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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This is actually over 2 nights in the shop. After the 1st I didn’t feel like I had enough to comment on. 
 

‘73 Chamonix

 

Welded up some small remaining holes in the floor pans/tunnel. Replaced the front to back brake line using new copper nickel line. I cut down the shifter platform, rebuilt the shifter and shortened the shift rod. I installed some misc bits in the engine bay. The front struts are bolted in and the races have been pressed into the hubs. The rear subframe that I’ll be using for this car got a a clean up and cot of paint. 

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Next go ‘round I’ll be working on the 3.91 LSD, trailing arms, and mounting the front brakes. 

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1 hour ago, jp5Touring said:

 Repair a cobbled up rear disc brake bleeder.  Thinkin the caliper was on its way out,can't get the piston to retract or come out now.

Will be in search of a new used VW MK3 caliper tomorrow.   oy vey

Do yourself a favor and find either a new one or reman. VW’s parking brake mechanisms have a pretty short life. When they seize they cause the caliper to drag.

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1 hour ago, jp5Touring said:

Repair a cobbled up rear disc brake bleeder.  Thinkin the caliper was on its way out,can't get the piston to retract or come out now.

 

I had a couple dragging/stuck pistons in my (stock) calipers and it was due to a little rust in the part of the bore outside the seal.  Once I scraped those surfaces clean they worked fine again.

 

Removing the pistons involved using a grease gun to push them out.  No way compressed air was going to move them.  It's a bit of fiddling around, but not that big of a job.  Not sure I'd call it fun, but I'd do it all again.

 

I don't know anything about VW calipers with E-brakes though.  Maybe you have a different problem.

 

Tom

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     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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Output flange lock plate, after you torque the nut the plate fits over it and there's a detente in the housing that with a punch you bend the ring into to lock it.

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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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58 minutes ago, Markster said:

I worked on the front seal of my Getrag 245.  Do I pull it out from the back of this flange?  Or is there a trick to remove the steel collar for the throwout bearing?  

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ok so I think it's easy - you do not remove the collar - just remove the seal from the back of the flange and make sure you put new seal in same way!  All done.  Used the OD of my 30mm socket to press it in very nicely.  

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5 hours ago, Markster said:

I worked on the front seal of my Getrag 245.  Do I pull it out from the back of this flange?  Or is there a trick to remove the steel collar for the throwout bearing?  

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Pull it from the back. Pay attention to the orientation of the seal. You can put it in backwards. Then it’ll want to keep oil out not in if ya know what I mean.

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I purchased the car in 04, and it had not been on the road since 99.. it literally went from storage in one garage to storage in another.  Forced to Pull it out of storage in Feb since property was being sold.  Been working on it here and there to recommission for use.. so last weekend it got it's 1st full tank of gas, 1st thorough cleaning, and 1st 50 mile drive in 20 years!   Still lots to do.

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3 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

+1  Like the gold.

 

4 hours ago, dlhoovler said:

@Pinaman, very classic look with the gold basketweaves on the blue (Riviera? Atlantik?). I'm a fan.

 

-Dave

 

Thanks guys..

                 - 76 Artiksblau

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