What did you do to your 2002 today !

[SydneyTii]

On 4/21/2019 at 11:54 AM, BarneyT said:

Attached are a weeks progress pictures with all parts being ready to install Sunday/Saturday many thinks to Mike Dube/Ed Zinsmeyer for their help in mounting front subframe and engine, drive shaft, exhaust and bumpers...

  hours to this point 67 total

   44 by me

   23 by friends helping

Hi Barney, is that plenum painted?

[BarneyT]

 The air Plenum and valve cover have been powder coated ... as well as the filter housing 

[TVeye]

1 hour ago, SydneyTii said:

Hi Barney, is that plenum painted?

You re-posted ALL those pictures to ask a simple question?

[SydneyTii]

16 minutes ago, TVeye said:

You re-posted ALL those pictures to ask a simple question?

Yep! I certainly did?

why you don’t like pictures????

[SaharaX2]

Barney, you are making such great progress with your car.
I enjoy your progress reports. However, You need to slow down.
You are making the rest of us look bad.
Thanks for the motivation.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Leucadian]

Went full Koogleworks console.  Swapped out the gauges for VDO with new senders, added cupholders.

 

Once I figure out the direction I want to go with the radio, I'll modify the panel.

 

Thanks Koogleworks!

 

[76dailydriver]

quieting her down for the trip to mid am. still have the 40s upfront singing. but i rather have that..

[chargin]

Just finished installing my new ICEAC center console with Kooglework’s face and cupholder shift surround 

 

 

[NYTransplant]

On 4/20/2019 at 5:30 PM, NYTransplant said:

Designed a slide-in cup holder for the factory console.  I'll print it next week and see how it fits.  I wanted something I could install and remove quickly.

 

 

Got the print today.  Fits like a glove and installs in seconds.  The only issue is it can tip toward the rear of the car under hard acceleration (I assume the car has enough guts). 

 

Two options: 

1. Put some velcro at the far end of the base to hold it down. 

2.  Drill a hole between the uprights and screw it down using the screw that's already in the stock console.  I relieved the bottom of the base to make room for the screw head.  Drilling a hole is super simple, and I'll probably do that. 

 

I only had gray PLA, so I'll paint this one with black plastic paint to see how it holds up.  I'll do the next one in black.

 

[grizzlebar]

Installed the O2 sensor and ran the wiring to the cluster. Installed the negative side fuse and will finish wiring tomorrow when my hammer crimper comes in.

Also took a few minutes and figured out why I didn’t have brake lights or wipers. Turns out the connectors at the fuse block were a bit corroded. Cleaned everything up with a dremel.

Now I need to figure out why I don’t have turn signals.

[AndySals]

6 hours ago, grizzlebar said:

Installed the O2 sensor and ran the wiring to the cluster. Installed the negative side fuse and will finish wiring tomorrow when my hammer crimper comes in.

Also took a few minutes and figured out why I didn’t have brake lights or wipers. Turns out the connectors at the fuse block were a bit corroded. Cleaned everything up with a dremel.

Now I need to figure out why I don’t have turn signals.

They earth to the body via the fixing screws. It is often the case of just screwing them in and out a couple of times to get a bite on the steel. The connection for the live feed within the indicator is also a point to check. Good luck.

[Mpower5266]

21 hours ago, NYTransplant said:

Got the print today.  Fits like a glove and installs in seconds.  The only issue is it can tip toward the rear of the car under hard acceleration (I assume the car has enough guts). 

 

Two options: 

1. Put some velcro at the far end of the base to hold it down. 

2.  Drill a hole between the uprights and screw it down using the screw that's already in the stock console.  I relieved the bottom of the base to make room for the screw head.  Drilling a hole is super simple, and I'll probably do that. 

 

I only had gray PLA, so I'll paint this one with black plastic paint to see how it holds up.  I'll do the next one in black.

 

 

Thats very cool and looks much better than my $1.50 cut up cup holder. 

 

Untitled by Nick  Wood, on Flickr

[NYTransplant]

4 hours ago, Mpower5266 said:

 

Thats very cool and looks much better than my $1.50 cut up cup holder. 

 

Untitled by Nick  Wood, on Flickr

 

Whatever works Nick!  ?  At first I was trying to "sculpt" some PVC pipe.  Talk about ugly!

 

[dlhoovler]

Got my inop hazard lights fixed. I found the hazard switch (translucent plastic knob to the left of the instrument binnacle) wasn't getting power on pin 30, which is constant 12v from the fuse box.

Under the fuse block, I found that the terminal on the lead from the battery was loose, plus a second wire appeared to have escaped from the same terminal - but wasn't on the wiring diagram. After some poking, I found that the unknown wire went to the diagnostic port on the inner fender, which isn't included on the diagram I have. I got both wires cut back, stripped and crimped into a new insulated terminal.

But still no power to the hazard switch.

I checked, and the wire had no continuity. In trying to figure which bundle it disappeared into, I found that it ended at a strange connector near where the wiring harness exits the fuse block cavity. That connector turned out to be an inline fuse holder, remedying my diagram-based observation that the hazard circuit wasn't actually protected by a fuse. Not sure if that holder is factory - it wasn't on my wiring diagram either, but it looks the part and holds the original-style ceramic fuses.

Regardless, its current resident had blown, so I replaced it and voila - power to the hazard switch!

As a side effect, my aftermarket intermittent wiper relay is now getting power again - I guess I had connected it to that same circuit without remembering. Two birds...

-Dave



Posted from my phone.

[grizzlebar]

Fiddled a whole hell of a lot with the hazard switch/flasher system in an attempt to get the new hazard switch to work. After about three hours of diagramming the circuit paths and doing continuity tests on the switch, I think I finally figured out how to bypass it and retain full functionality. It’ll require a second flasher relay and some diodes which should be here Friday but I’m looking forward to putting it in and testing it.