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Loose Rear Hub - What part do I need?


Seven02

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It would help if you would take it further apart, but it appears to be a cracked flange, or severely worn splines in the flange/stub axle mating surface. Replacement parts are a new flange and a new stub axle. Might as well replace the bearings and seals while you are in there if they are not recent......Take the brake drum off and let us know what you find.

 

EDIT: looking at the video more carefully I don't see any movement between the splined part of the flange and the stub axle. This points to a broken flange. You might be able to get away with just a flange and not a stub axle. BUT, if (a) the stub axles are original, (b) you do not know how old the stub axles are, or (c) the car was hit on that wheel, you may want to proactively replace the stub axles as well because they do eventually fail. Typically tightening the large nut stretches the splined area. In the best case the splines fail and the axle spins inside the hub (been there), in the worst case the splined part just snaps off and off goes your rear wheel (been there too).

 

Here's a few related stub axle posts:

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/106073-stub-axle-failures/
https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/118625-snapped-axle-stub/
https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/156128-checking-stub-axles-are-ok/

 

Drive flanges do not crack very often, but I did have one crack all the way around the base of the raised splined portion (been there part III). This is on a car that sees extensive track use. The crack was diagonal with an inner radius smaller than the outer radius, such that crack formed a cone and the wheel did not fall off. Axle would spin inside the hub, wheel would just sit there. The shop at VIR could not get the hub off, so they brazed it in place and I limped home at 50 mph for 6+ hours. And this was a tii flange, which are harder than standard 2002 flanges (we had a thread about that some years ago, flanges were tested for Rockwell hardness).

 

The parts you want are here:

Real OEM
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2215-USA-06-1976-114-BMW-2002&diagId=33_0885

 

Numbers 2 and 8 at a minimum

 

Side shaft (stub axle)
33411116776

Now $175.86 new from BMW

 

standard 2002 flange
33413404106

now $313.68 new from BMW

 

-Fred

Edited by FB73tii

--Fred

'74tii (Colorado) track car

'69ti (Black/Red/Yellow) rolling resto track car

'73tii (Fjord....RIP)

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Some consideration to the wheel spacers?  They do change the loading on all of the parts back there. If you are running high offset wheels and these are just to get things back to stock they should not be a problem.  If you are running wider body flares with wide wheels and tons of tire you might have exceeded the load capacity on some of the parts.  

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

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18 hours ago, FB73tii said:

It would help if you would take it further apart, but it appears to be a cracked flange, or severely worn splines in the flange/stub axle mating surface. Replacement parts are a new flange and a new stub axle. Might as well replace the bearings and seals while you are in there if they are not recent......Take the brake drum off and let us know what you find.

 

EDIT: looking at the video more carefully I don't see any movement between the splined part of the flange and the stub axle. This points to a broken flange. You might be able to get away with just a flange and not a stub axle. BUT, if (a) the stub axles are original, (b) you do not know how old the stub axles are, or (c) the car was hit on that wheel, you may want to proactively replace the stub axles as well because they do eventually fail. Typically tightening the large nut stretches the splined area. In the best case the splines fail and the axle spins inside the hub (been there), in the worst case the splined part just snaps off and off goes your rear wheel (been there too).

 

Here's a few related stub axle posts:

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/106073-stub-axle-failures/
https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/118625-snapped-axle-stub/
https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/156128-checking-stub-axles-are-ok/

 

Drive flanges do not crack very often, but I did have one crack all the way around the base of the raised splined portion (been there part III). This is on a car that sees extensive track use. The crack was diagonal with an inner radius smaller than the outer radius, such that crack formed a cone and the wheel did not fall off. Axle would spin inside the hub, wheel would just sit there. The shop at VIR could not get the hub off, so they brazed it in place and I limped home at 50 mph for 6+ hours. And this was a tii flange, which are harder than standard 2002 flanges (we had a thread about that some years ago, flanges were tested for Rockwell hardness).

 

The parts you want are here:

Real OEM
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=2215-USA-06-1976-114-BMW-2002&diagId=33_0885

 

Numbers 2 and 8 at a minimum

 

Side shaft (stub axle)
33411116776

Now $175.86 new from BMW

 

standard 2002 flange
33413404106

now $313.68 new from BMW

 

-Fred

Thanks Fred! I'm going to try tightening the crown nut as Naz suggested and if that didn't do it I'll order those parts. Found the side shaft on ebay for $80, he might have the flange too. 

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That won't do it.

 

Your hub's broken, loose, or that spacer's having a field day with your drum.

 

Don't buy anything until you actually take it apart.

 

sez me.

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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If it was that loose on the splines the hub and stub axle are shot!!!!  Like ray said YOU ARE NOT DONE!  Don't drive it like this, you WILL loose a wheel and if you are lucky you will be the only one hurt. 

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

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Even if the crown nut was a bit loose there is no way it would allow that amount of movement. Take the brake drum off and inspect everything. Pull the flange and take a good look at the splines. Read the links I posted above on stub axle failure. Having a wheel come off at speed is no joke--you want to make sure everything is right before putting it back together. --Fred

 

Oops--Byron beat me to it :)

Edited by FB73tii

--Fred

'74tii (Colorado) track car

'69ti (Black/Red/Yellow) rolling resto track car

'73tii (Fjord....RIP)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just a follow up on my experience with the damages a loose rear hub causes. Here are some images of what yours probably looks like if you've been driving it even for a short period of time. Broken bearing, stripped output ect...

Definitely should be taken apart and addressed.


10085a7e9b557702781c2eb7aaa8a312.jpg
9f31ae42845a634f13b54aea59d14d5e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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