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nando figueras

Updated Alternator bracket

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Anyone know where I can purchase an upgraded alternator bracket. My belt keeps getting loose and the warning light "L" flickers from time to time. I was told there is an upgraded bracket to keep the alternator in place. Thanks Fernando 

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Are you sure it isn't the bushings in the alternator mount holes or the pulley/shaft itself going bad?  Either would cause a wobbly alternator.

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Isn't there a bracket that goes along with an e30 upgrade alternator that has a gear you turn to add tension?

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6 minutes ago, Simeon said:

Isn't there a bracket that goes along with an e30 upgrade alternator that has a gear you turn to add tension?

  Indeed... and that's why I blame it on the belt.   And the 325e alternator I use has no bushings.  

Image 5.png

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(edited)
1 hour ago, nando figueras said:

I was told there is an upgraded bracket to keep the alternator in place.

The "Upgrade" is the mounting rubber bushings to poly.

 

29 minutes ago, eurotrash said:

And the 325e alternator I use has no bushings

Aren't the bushings in the engine mount?  If not then it's the 6 cyl smoothness that isn't in the 4 cyl that would shake the alternator to death.

 

44 minutes ago, Simeon said:

alternator that has a gear you turn to add tension?

Most of them are worn out and skip teeth when the belt is tightened.

Tighten M10 belts that tight and there goes the water pump bearings in about 30K miles.

Edited by jimk

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I too was plagued with the "L" light coming on after I tighten the alternator bracket bolts.  

 

To try to solve the problem with it slipping, I placed a serrated washer between the alternator body and the bracket and tighten it again.  So far it hasn't loosen up. 

 

I think part of my problem was the plastic housing bushings were touching the brackets and was allowing for the slip...because the bolts were tight.  I keep the belt loose as recommended to avoid damaging the water pump.

 

 

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(edited)

My brackets happen to be new, so just because its geared doesn't mean that the belt is over-tightened.. and wouldn't upgrading the bushings to poly make the mounting nearly as rigid as the alternator I posted a pic of..?

 

Interestingly, the alt I have with no bushings was off of a 318i, and the alternator on my '85 325e has rubber bushings that are oozing like tar. So there's that.  :wacko:

 

Edited by eurotrash

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54 minutes ago, eurotrash said:

wouldn't upgrading the bushings to poly make the mounting nearly as rigid as the alternator I posted a pic of

Place an accelerometer on  the alternator and you would see a big difference between a metal to metal joint vs one that has an elastomer, even one like a poly material.  It's the peak forces that eat up the bearings.

 

56 minutes ago, eurotrash said:

My brackets happen to be new, so just because its geared doesn't mean that the belt is over-tightened

If you know the proper belt tension but I assume a lot of newbies (and even oldies) might use more gusto just because the leverage is there.

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My story might not be relevant because the tii alternator bracket is in a different location than on a standard 02.  I will share in the off-chance that it helps solve this issue.

 

I was experiencing a rattle that sounded catastrophic and emanated from deep in the engine.  I was one opinion away from removing the front timing covers, oil-pan and possibly the head to locate the origin of the noise.

 

Fortunate for me, someone diagnosed that the alternator bracket was loose.  Even with the alternator removed I could not wiggle the bracket.  It took a crowbar to move it.  

 

What I learned was that the small bolt at the rear of the bracket was one size too long.  It bottomed out in the hole in the block and appeared tight enough to secure the bracket, but in reality it only held it firmly to touch, but not when the alternator is hanging off it, and the engine is jiggling during use.  

5965096baa2fc_BracketRacket.thumb.jpg.3bea41d31922c09547787aa01bd12213.jpg

 

The bolt hole in the block is shallower than usual, and requires a shorter bolt.  Putting the correct length bolt in fixed my otherwise disastrous issue.  Whew.

5965098567452_SmallBolt.jpg.7769c8ae559c2d2122186f4a5956ca2e.jpg

 

As for the tensioner bar:  I've never had an issue with the alternator sliding down, IF I torque the adjustable bolt properly with leverage on the alternator to keep the belt tight while wrenching.

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yeah, for sure.. the tension/tightening techniques for the typical 60s/70s alternator are standard procedure for those of us who have been around them much.  You really need three hands.. 

 

 I went to the 80 amp e30 318i setup to support the draw that lights, audio, etc added to my car, and got the bonus of the geared tensioner in the deal. 

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