Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Refurbishing Fuel Sender Filter


Recommended Posts

Hey guys. In the process of replacing the mesh on the fuel filter located at the bottom of the fuel sender. I got the old fabric out of the ring and have some brass mesh (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H2VCGC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc) I thought I'd solder in.

 

IMG_3841.JPG_zpsuxmmbh25.jpeg

 

IMG_3845.JPG_zpszg2dbumm.jpeg

 

Problem is, they won't solder together. I have a Weller 240w soldering gun and I tried using flux too with no luck. I guess I have to pick up welding? lol

 

Please give some suggestions/ideas. Thanks.

1973 2002tii, riviera blue, 45mm Weber dual side draft carbs (itg foam filter), ansa exhaust

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks like a great idea.  Can you sand /media blast the ring to get to bare metal?  The brass might also have some factory applied oil or leftover processing liquid on it, so you might try cleaning it with some acetone.  Please do provide updates.  

BMWCCA  Member #14493

www.2002sonly.com

1086238739_Logoforsignature.png.eb1354ab9afa7c378cd15f33e4c7fbbe.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you guys think it would be possible to use some fuel-resistant adhesive?

 

I looked into welding and a welder is a little out of my budget right now lol. Maybe I can try soldering it another way..let me know what you think.

1973 2002tii, riviera blue, 45mm Weber dual side draft carbs (itg foam filter), ansa exhaust

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welders don't like brass anyway, due to the zinc.

 

The screen you took out appears to have been sandwiched between layers of metal in the ring.

If there is still any fabric in that ring, it will make soldering even more difficult.

 

A fuel proof epoxy (if there is such a thing) would be neat.

Cut a disc of tape to mask off the screen where you don't want the glue and it might even look neat when you are done.

 

There is a window of opportunity, when working with epoxies, when it starts to set up and can be molded into shape.

That can be a fun part of the process.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=gasoline+proof+epoxy&rlz=1C1LEND_enUS564US564&oq=gasoline+proof+epoxy&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.5887j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

 

I hope that screen is not too fine.  I do not know what the original stuff was like.  I would think its job would be to filter out chUnks of stuff, and the finer particles would get handled by the little inline fuel filters.  (You don't want to be having to get into the tank to unplug the screen).

 

Please keep us posted as you progress.  I like seeing parts kept in service with little repairs; rather than simply replacing the whole thing.

Tom

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I may be wrong, but coulda sworn that the screen on my fuel pickup is plastic...

 

One more suggestion--if you know anyone in the aviation business, aircraft with reciprocating engines have very fine stainless steel mesh filter screens; perhaps you can find either an old filter to salvage screen from, or buy a new one, cut a piece to fit and glue in place (see below).  

 

Also, I know there is a fuel-proof epoxy, because I glued an old Weber 22DRS ('48 Fiat 500) carb back together after the air horn crumbled when I clamped the air cleaner on it.  That was over 20 years ago, and the epoxy is still holding...

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Simeon said:

The screen is overrated. Just be sure to have 1 or 2 quality inline fuel filters between the tank and the carb. 

 

i agree with simeon here, i run without this screen and have two inline filters, picks up everything on route and leaves my carb bit free :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd rather run with the filter than not if possible (especially since I have a fuel check-valve before my pump's pre-filter that could get clogged). Seems like I will be going the epoxy route...straight from JB Weld website:

 

"Is J-B Weld resistant to water and/or gasoline?
When fully cured, J-B Weld is completely resistant to water, gasoline, and about every other petroleum product or automotive chemical. For wet-surface or submerged water or gasoline repairs, try our SteelStik or WaterWeld."
Edited by rich2002tii

1973 2002tii, riviera blue, 45mm Weber dual side draft carbs (itg foam filter), ansa exhaust

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Use JB Weld.  I've fixed holes in oil pans with the stuff and a screen for reinforcement over the hole.  Oil is a hydrocarbon as is gasoline.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+2, 3, and 4 for JB Weld. It's the quickest way to plug leaky motorcycle tanks. I also used it to stop an oily porosity leak on a Yamaha cylinder head. I used it about 8 years ago on my son's dirt bike to repair the float pin bracket inside the carb, and opened it up last year to see how it was doing. Looked like the day I put it together, so JB Weld is a go.

 

Plus, JB Weld says it's good to go. 

Jerry

no bimmer, for now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, I guess it has been over a year, since I patched this cracked fuel tank with JB and it does not leak...

You'll want to clean and scuff the surface ( mechanical grip )

005.thumb.JPG.5d07cc2a815118d6fae08613d206e3ad.JPG

Edited by '76mintgrun'02

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update: New mesh is JB Welded on.

 

IMG_4069.JPG_zpstqy4gr7f.jpeg

Cleaned/scratched ring with a grill cleaner pad and soap

 

IMG_4070.JPG_zpstysocabw.jpeg

Cut brass mesh to size (I will cut/round the corners after the JB cures because I didn't want the mesh to start stripping/falling apart)

 

FullSizeRender.jpg-3_zpsqsutg5cs.jpeg

Put JB WaterWeld around the bottom rim/lip and then pressed onto the mesh

 

FullSizeRender.jpg-2_zpsnvrlktns.jpeg

 

FullSizeRender.jpg-1_zpsrzqumh7k.jpeg

Started adding some WaterWeld to the other side of the mesh and overlapped on the four tangent/touching edges of mesh

 

FullSizeRender.jpg_zps6zarrmfd.jpeg

Finished!

 

Not pretty, but does the job. Maybe I'll put a bead of silicone around the inner rim? Not sure how that will hold up to gasoline, probably isn't even necessary.

 

1973 2002tii, riviera blue, 45mm Weber dual side draft carbs (itg foam filter), ansa exhaust

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hardened and trimmed edges:

 

FullSizeRender.jpg-4_zpsqosc8vpx.jpeg

FullSizeRender.jpg-5_zps59lq5suc.jpeg

 

Looking back, I should have pressed more putty into the space where the old mesh was to hold it in better, but this seems like it'll hold up.

1973 2002tii, riviera blue, 45mm Weber dual side draft carbs (itg foam filter), ansa exhaust

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...