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Leaking Head Gasket


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Folks,

 

I think I have a leaking head gasket. Please see the attached photos. I continue to see fluid on the bottom ledge of the block- intake side. It appears to be coolant but there doesn't seem to be a loss of coolant in the radiator. Could this be the cause of my ticking/knocking @ 2K RPM upon releasing the accelerator?

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(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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That to my "practiced" eye looks more like a weep and not a leak.   As the first "easy fix" I would get some Bar's Leak into the system and see what happens. https://barsleaks.com/    

      (My old Chevy truck did that, no big deal, Bar's Leak solved the weep).

 

As to ticking/knocking, I have no idea if there would be an effect unless there is weeping/leaking into the cylinder ??

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

Edited by OriginalOwner
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I had this happen once-

there's an easy fix.

 

Pull the head.

 

When I did, I found a crumbly old aftermarket headgasket that'd given up.

 

4 hour fix.

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Have you looked to see if you've got coolant in your oil (milky coloration or froth under the valvecover), or oil in your coolant? The tissue-paper test at the exhaust once warmed up? (to look for vapor residue)

 

I can't quite tell from your photos where the leak is at, but if it's at the back check the hoses/fittings that run to your heater-core at the back of the cylinder head. I feel those are often ignored, and I myself had one slowly leak, then not-so-slowly explode. 

 

 

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And worse-comes-to-worse, as Toby mentions, replacing the head-gasket on these cars is pretty strait-forward.

 

When I did mine it was pretty intimidating. But if you do need a new Head Gasket, just take your time, clean up and prep all your mating surfaces well, and follow the torque procedures to a T and you'll be fine. 

 

Have a buddy help you, I found it easy and time-saving to keep the head, manifold, carb, etc all bolted together, and lift off/replace as an assembly.

 

While you're in there use it as an opportunity to check the inner-health of your engine to gauge if or when you might be needing to crack her back apart in the future for a Top, bottom, or complete rebuild. 

Edited by 2002Scoob
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1 hour ago, 2002Scoob said:

Have you looked to see if you've got coolant in your oil (milky coloration or froth under the valvecover), or oil in your coolant? The tissue-paper test at the exhaust once warmed up? (to look for vapor residue)

 

I can't quite tell from your photos where the leak is at, but if it's at the back check the hoses/fittings that run to your heater-core at the back of the cylinder head. I feel those are often ignored, and I myself had one slowly leak, then not-so-slowly explode. 

 

 

The leak or weep appears to be directly between the #2 & #3 intake ports, not at the back of the block. There is no coolant in the oil as I have changed the oil and coolant twice in the last three months and they both were pristine.

(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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1 hour ago, Simeon said:

I would check the water neck gasket with the head too. 

Simeon,

 

I have checked that once but will check again. Thanks...

(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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1 hour ago, Buckeye said:

Let me know if I can be any help

Buckeye.. I have tons of things at work to get done before I leave for vacation in June. I will certainly reach out to you when i'm back. Except for the annoying tapping/ticking and now this coolant leak the car has been running really nice since you helped me last. Thank you!

(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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1 hour ago, 2002Scoob said:

And worse-comes-to-worse, as Toby mentions, replacing the head-gasket on these cars is pretty strait-forward.

 

When I did mine it was pretty intimidating. But if you do need a new Head Gasket, just take your time, clean up and prep all your mating surfaces well, and follow the torque procedures to a T and you'll be fine. 

 

Have a buddy help you, I found it easy and time-saving to keep the head, manifold, carb, etc all bolted together, and lift off/replace as an assembly.

 

While you're in there use it as an opportunity to check the inner-health of your engine to gauge if or when you might be needing to crack her back apart in the future for a Top, bottom, or complete rebuild. 

Scoob... I am extremely intimidated with the thought of removing the head. I've read articles about how to tie the chain & sprocket so it doesn't move and whatnot and making sure everything is extremely clean, but it still frightens the hell out of me that I wont get something put back right then fire it up and "KABOOM" 

(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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2 hours ago, ingramlee said:

Scoob... I am extremely intimidated with the thought of removing the head. I've read articles about how to tie the chain & sprocket so it doesn't move and whatnot and making sure everything is extremely clean, but it still frightens the hell out of me that I wont get something put back right then fire it up and "KABOOM" 

 

Meeeehhhh. Not that scary. I promise.

 

I had no effin' clue what I was doing when I started my rebuild, and the whole tie the chain/sproket thing isn't nearly as important as just making sure everything is at TDC and aligned. between head/pistons. 

 

I had to remove, install, and remove mine twice because of a POS Mechanic who messed up his part of the job. 

 

Make sure TDC cam mark is pointed straight-up and inline with the oiling tube, confirm that TDC on cyl 1 matches with the markings on the flywheel and front pulley... re-install your cam sprocket so that there's zero slack at the front of the timing chain...

 

Check, double-check, turn the motor over by hand till you're back at TDC a few times to feel for interference, call a buddy to look over your shoulder, triple check, then go to bed because you both probably had at least two beers throughout the process... Wake up, check again, then fire her up. You'll be fine. 

Edited by 2002Scoob
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No kaboom.

Keeping things clean is the most time- consuming-

make a wood wedge to shove down the middle of the cam chain, use a few zip ties,

make sure you're TDC on cam and crank, it's fool- resistant.

 

When mine did that, a pressure test cold would cause coolant to ooze out of the joint

pretty noticably.  It's only leaving the water jacket to go walkabout, not getting into anything.

But if it's like mine, it means the whole gasket's lost its elasticity, and as the head and block expand

at different rates, its sealing days are done. 

 

So double- confirm it's really leaking there, (and not a hose above it, since the intake is water- warmed)

 

then

order yourself a nice new Elring gasket and an upper set (last I looked, only Reinz makes upper sets anymore,

so you'll have a spare Renz head gasket to play with if you want) and book an easy, but painstaking, day to swap it.

I follow the torque procedure that comes with the gasket, figuring that they know how to make a gasket seal.

 

Once you're done, you'll have learned a bunch of things, and be less scared of your car.

 

They do bite, but the more you know, the less ferocious they are.

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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2 hours ago, TobyB said:

No kaboom.

Keeping things clean is the most time- consuming-

make a wood wedge to shove down the middle of the cam chain, use a few zip ties,

make sure you're TDC on cam and crank, it's fool- resistant.

 

When mine did that, a pressure test cold would cause coolant to ooze out of the joint

pretty noticably.  It's only leaving the water jacket to go walkabout, not getting into anything.

But if it's like mine, it means the whole gasket's lost its elasticity, and as the head and block expand

at different rates, its sealing days are done. 

 

So double- confirm it's really leaking there, (and not a hose above it, since the intake is water- warmed)

 

then

order yourself a nice new Elring gasket and an upper set (last I looked, only Reinz makes upper sets anymore,

so you'll have a spare Renz head gasket to play with if you want) and book an easy, but painstaking, day to swap it.

I follow the torque procedure that comes with the gasket, figuring that they know how to make a gasket seal.

 

Once you're done, you'll have learned a bunch of things, and be less scared of your car.

 

They do bite, but the more you know, the less ferocious they are.

 

t

 

Toby,

 

I'm almost there. You and 2002Scoob almost have me convinced I can do this. hmmmmm. Stay tuned!

(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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  • 3 months later...

Well guys its been more than three months since this original post and I still have not found the courage or time to attempt to replace the seeping head gasket. Frankly I haven't done much at all to the car lately since I've been gearing up to moving to a new home. Maybe once were all settled into the new place in a few more weeks I will get off of my !@#$ and quit neglecting my car.

(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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