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Rear wheel bearing kit pricing is confusing


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So I've been searching online for the parts I need to replace the rear wheel bearings.  I've noticed that the price for the rear bearing kit's are around $80 (for one wheel).  These kits include inner and outer bearings, 2 seals and a cotter pin.  3 sites I normally buy from have a similar kit.  But on these sites, you can buy 4 individual rear bearings, and 4 individual rear seals for a total of around $35.  What am I missing here other than the cotter pin?  Surely a cotter pin doesn't account for the $100+ difference.  Does anyone have experience buying the kits?  Do they come with additional parts not listed?  



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No confusion- they're making money on the idea that a 'kit' is cheaper/easier.  This has been going on for quite a while...


I would caution that decent quality roller bearings of that size are in the low teens, and seals for $4 or 5- if you're seeing them for much cheaper,

they may be of unknown manufacture.  SKF, National, FAG, Koyo and a few others are all I use.  PEX, I do not recommend except for plumbing.

Be wary if it says OEM- some shitball outfit out there is selling

OEM(tm) branded import parts.  It won't be the original equipment manufacturer supplier, not at all...


Unless they're selling you a center spacer and a set of shims.  And I can almost guarantee that they're not...

You might be getting nuts, which sometimes have to be cut off- but again, I bet not.


You can also go to a bearing house, buy 4 good- quality bearings and seals, and a couple of cotter pins from a hardware store.

These are very standard ball bearings- all you need is the number off the side, and the number off the seal.




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Thanks for the reply guys.  It was just strange that the companies that sold the kit's also sold the individual bearings and seals for a fraction of the cost for the kit.  I could see getting generic ball bearings for cheap but these bearing are Koyo and the exact ones that are part of the kit.  

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I used Koyo bearings. You want to make sure your new bearings have C3 designation, which is bearings having an internal clearance other than Normal.
here is my write up for rear wheel bearing rehab.

I was unsuccesful looking for your bearing rehab write up. Is it for the front or rear? I am in the process of rehabing my rear wheel bearing as well. I've removed the wheel hub and pondering over the removal method for the front bearing seal...using screw driver does not seem to help. Is it press fitted? a7eb8518c4fe33c94ee1f91df896b60f.jpg

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Thanks for the feedback guys. I'm planning to order new rear seal kits. I think the seals have not been change since the car rolled out of the assembly line. One side had started to gunk up. The screw driver method failed to dislodged the seals. Planning to grab a seal puller to do the job right.402d8a68d1f8da5d7ced5e5721b489ff.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi All. Jumping in late here as I was just about to do this but now have questions based on the info in this thread. The PO of the car I am restoring bought wheel bearings and seals before he sold it to me. I pulled out the bearings (from Beck Arnley) and found I have three of one type and one of another - all the same Beck Arnley part number though. One says C4 engraved on the edge, the other three, which are a different brand, do not have anything etched. Here is a pic of the two types. 


First of all, is the C4 designation an issue? How do I confirm the bearings are all the same? I checked the outer diameter and they are all the same, but the three bearings which are the same have 8 balls and the one different one has 9.


am I overthinking this?




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Well all this bearing talk made me look. C4 is looser clearance than C3 

I bought FAG from Blunttech (under driveshaft and axle section) figured FAG would have some inherent quality and beat SKF pricing. Had to see on my own where made vs Koyo

My FAG bearings are C3 and made in Korea.

Turns out my old bearings were FAG as well. 

Elring seals inexpensive at Blunt or RMEuropean 

I am following that good write up, trying to estimate the 35 grams of grease. 

The old seals were stubborn but a big screwdriver with leverage should pop them out. 

Edited by mgben
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